Ready to take it to the range tomorrow to see if it will shoot. This is the one with the 35 caliber barrel that we thought was a 36. It's patterned after my ancestors rifle.
That is a mighty fine squirrel gun if I ever seen one! WTG!!Ready to take it to the range tomorrow to see if it will shoot. This is the one with the 35 caliber barrel that we thought was a 36. It's patterned after my ancestors rifle.
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Good catch! That's what happens when you get the lock location a little off. I had to relocate the hole in the hammer to get it to fit the nipple angle.That's real nice. And like was said clean. Like the back action lock too. Is the hammer screw location intestinally that way? Either way nice.
As Mr. Sulu would say, "Oh, My!"Ready to take it to the range tomorrow to see if it will shoot. This is the one with the 35 caliber barrel that we thought was a 36. It's patterned after my ancestors rifle.
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Now that's a good looking rifle! What brand of lock is it? The rounded front of the plate is unusual. I keep looking for quality back action locks but they're really scarce. You're right about small caliber balls not ringing steel targets. Our club bought some green lights that attach to the targets that flash when the steel is hit. My 32 caliber will set them off. It's been a real help having them. They're made by Caldwell. As for splitting balls on an axe or splitting cards we're at a real disadvantage there for sure.Man after my own heart! I give you the Chicken Rifle. .36 back action maple-stocked. An early (and rough) build. With it's black informal (delrin) ramrod. Notice the slightly pregnant look right around the breech that is endemic to the species... Shoots really well if I do my part, enough to win a match or two. The only disadvantage is on trail walks where the larger bullets come in handy. For 75 and 100 yd shots on metal I need at least one witness around with optics to confirm that I actually scored because you can't hear the bullet hit that far out. And try splitting a .36 bullet on an axe head sometime....
-Nick
Thanks! Mine is just a collection of parts that i thought would work well together. It has an L&R lock that I had to tinker with to actually make work. It came with a squared front end like yours, but I rounded it because I liked the look. But when you do that, the thin web of wood between the lock and the breechplug is then subject to cracks. So far there's only one small crack in mine and hopefully it won't get worse. Lesson learned. The only other option for using a back action lock that I know of is to go find an original that still works. I was thinking about looking for a crusty old (cheap) percussion shotgun with a working lock. But then the shape is going to be kinda random. Than again, it might be already engravedNow that's a good looking rifle! What brand of lock is it? The rounded front of the plate is unusual. I keep looking for quality back action locks but they're really scarce. You're right about small caliber balls not ringing steel targets. Our club bought some green lights that attach to the targets that flash when the steel is hit. My 32 caliber will set them off. It's been a real help having them. They're made by Caldwell. As for splitting balls on an axe or splitting cards we're at a real disadvantage there for sure.
Wow that is beautiful! Where did you get the stock?Ready to take it to the range tomorrow to see if it will shoot. This is the one with the 35 caliber barrel that we thought was a 36. It's patterned after my ancestors rifle.
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NVMWow that is beautiful! Where did you get the stock?
I like yours as well, but the question was asked to The Crisco Kid. I am looking for a half stock like his.Glad you like it! Next time, I'm going for a less glossy finish. Started with a blank from Dunlap Woodcraft.
-Nick
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