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Lead fowling and cleaning

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Eric M

40 Cal.
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I recentyl started shooting T/C Maxi hunters out of my muzzleloader. Is there anything different I should do when cleaning the bore? I usually do the old hot soapy water then clean water. After that I use an air compressor to blow out any moisture. I run a dry patch down the bore prior to putting some rem oil for storage. I hear alot about lead fowling and barrel's being shot out but when I put my bore light down the bore it looks good to me. What should I be looking for as far as lead fowling if anything is there? Any suggestions please let me know.
 
If you are shooting bare lead bullets that rub against the lands and grooves, you have leading.

Use a modern lead solvent- Hoppe's #9, Shooter's Choice, and others all work. Run a solvent soaked patch down the bore. If it comes back out with black or silver lead streaks, you have Leading.

Its pretty hard to see leading visually in a MLing barrel. Not so hard looking through a modern suppository barrel. T/C guns have been notorious on this site for being described as " Shot-out" Because the grooves have filled up with both lead and BP residue when they are not cleaned properly.

Members here make a habit of scouring both sporting goods stores, and pawn shops looking for these guns, or barrels. They buy them cheap, take them home, use lead solvents and bore brushes to clean out the lead and fowling, properly, and then turn around and sell the barrel or gun for a huge profit.

Cleaning your barrel after shooting bare lead balls out of it should routinely involve using a bore brush- I like my bronze brushes--- with a large cleaning patch soaked in lead solvents run down and up the bore. Then let the barrel sit with the coating of solvent in the barrel, so that the solvents can eat UNDER the lead to separate it from the barrel. Give it 15-30 minutes. Then run patches down on a cleaning jag to pull the lead and solvent out.

FEEL the bore as you do this for blockages, and always check it with new cleaning patches. If there is any gray or silver streaks on a clean patch, repeat the process until you get clean( white) patches coming out of the barrel. You want the barrel to be as clean as the first day you cleaned the factory sealant out of the bore, every time you clean the barrel after shooting it. When you are satisfied that the barrel is clean of lead and other fouling, THEN, oil the barrel for storage. What you use to protect the bore from rust depends on how long the gun will be store- and where it will be stored-- until the next time you shoot it. Long term storage requires a product like B/C Shield.

Always remember to flush out any oil or grease used to protect the bore during storage, before you take the gun back out for the next shooting session. Cheap isopropyl alcohol works fine for this purpose. If you don't clean this out, it will foul the barrel the first time you put powder down the barrel and shoot it. Worse, with a T/C, and its powder chamber and small holes leading from the chamber to the percussion nipple, or Th(flinters), it will gunk up these small places and keep the gun from firing. :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
Thank you for all the information. Whenever I have cleaned the bore after shooting I have not noticed anything on a clean patch. No gray or black. They patch comes out completely white. Hope to keep it that way as well.
 
No gray or black. They patch comes out completely white.

Not really an accurate way to determine you don't have lead fouling in your barrel. :hmm:
 
Memphis1211 said:
Any suggestions please let me know.
Several years ago I tested a hunch I had about easily/quickly getting lead residue out of a bore after shooting a long shot-pattern-testing range session.
When I was done, I fired a half dozen tight fitting patched balls through it and the tight patches grabbed and pulled out any lead residue...
 

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