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Lead melting temp

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sequoia

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I finally bit the bullet and bought a Lee production pot with the bottom pour spout. For a couple of decades I’ve been using a Lee melter pot with a dipper and just cranking it all the way up. What the proper temperature for melting lead? The stuff I use is pretty pure. I can score it with a fingernail.
 
According to Wiki, lead melts at 621 degrees F. I used to use a Lee bottom pour, but upgraded to an RCBS a few years ago. I don't have a thermometer, but wonder how accurate the settings are on lead pots. I keep my RCBS at about 700.
 
I run pure at about 780ish due to no tin. Tin lead's I run at 750, antimonial alloys at 720ish.
 
My lead is pure , and my lee pots seem to like about 700 + a little bit more for large diam balls , and adding lead frequently.
 
I run my Lee wide open & pour fast as I can open and close the mould. Works for me.
Yep it makes knocking the sprue plate open easier. Lee has even said frosting dosent effect the performance of the bullet. I read that somewhere in one of their manuals.
I don’t bottom pour. I’m just faster with the ladle, born of necessity since both my pots leaked thru the rod so I welded the hole shut.
Down side it leaves larger sprue over pours.
 
According to Wiki, lead melts at 621 degrees F. I used to use a Lee bottom pour, but upgraded to an RCBS a few years ago. I don't have a thermometer, but wonder how accurate the settings are on lead pots. I keep my RCBS at about 700.
I use a Lee pot but I replaced its guesswork control with a digital Temperature control and a thermocouple! Very easy to set whatever temp you want and keep it within a few degrees!
 
I turn the pot on high until the lead melts I put my mold on top of the edge of the pot to heat it up. In about 15 or 20 minutes I check on the lead - flux it and start to pour a bullet. If it looks good I continue to make bullets until I have to add more lead to the pot. It is not rocket science - If the bullets look frosted then your lead is too hot - if the bullets look wrinkled then your lead is too cold -- correct both issues using the temperature control knob on the pot -- very simple. I use both an electric pot and a 40 pound cast iron plumbers pot / propane tank set-up depending on how many bullets I want to make and how much time I want to spend doing it.
 
I turn the pot on high until the lead melts I put my mold on top of the edge of the pot to heat it up. In about 15 or 20 minutes I check on the lead - flux it and start to pour a bullet. If it looks good I continue to make bullets until I have to add more lead to the pot. It is not rocket science - If the bullets look frosted then your lead is too hot - if the bullets look wrinkled then your lead is too cold -- correct both issues using the temperature control knob on the pot -- very simple. I use both an electric pot and a 40 pound cast iron plumbers pot / propane tank set-up depending on how many bullets I want to make and how much time I want to spend doing it.
I adopted the 2 pot system for large batches.
I set them both up - use the first one while the other is melting lead.
When it's time to change pots, i refill the first post and start using the second.
Never have to wait. In addition to the lead temp - also need to pay close attention to the mold temp.
I set up a hot plate to pre-heat and keep hot the molds I am going to use.
I fire up the plate and start heating the molds at the same time I start preheating the pot(s)
A hot mold will make great balls and bullets - a cold one will ALWAYS make bag casts.
Good lighting on your casting area is also a very good thing to have.
I also set up a steel deck that is about 1" above the tabletop - makes cleanup and protection during casting a dream come true.

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When I was heavy into BPCR I was using a Waage lead pot, kind of pricy but holds temperature better that the Lee's or Lyman's that I had.
Dipper method held weight variations to within a grain when I paid attention, cast up to 3000 per winter for summer shooting season.
I gave the Lee away and kept the Lyman so I could have two different alloys ready.
 
How does paying attention to the dipper method affect weight of the cast bullet or ball?
I thought that was determined by the alloy or the molds quality. I’ve a cheap Lee 5 pounder bough full of lead used for $25 dollars 10 years ago.I’ve thrown thousands of roundball and pistol bullets from it and and equal amount from an antique Lyman 20 pounder. Too cold and it’s wrinkled bullets too hot and it’s frosted. Everything in between seems fair enough.
I've never thrown a long skinny rifle bullet or much of anything over 400 grains however so there is much I don’t know. I expect hollow points would be a different animal also.
 
If you add a little bit of Beeswax to the melted Molten Metal it will bring all the impurities up to the to where you can scoop them wth a spoon.
 
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