OK Smooooothieee, and just what caliber wazzz you shootin. ?
50-caliber … and still trying to best that group, lol!OK Smooooothieee, and just what caliber wazzz you shootin. ?
I had terrible groups at 25 yards- I was using a box of hornady .495 balls. I decided to weight them to see the average weight. MANY light round balls in that box! I just scrapped them and melted them to cast new ones. I weigh any and all round balls and bullets now.Me thinks the biggest issue here is the OP's inconsistent burned threw/blown patches ...
1st things 1st ... get your rifle grouping!
Weigh your balls? Sure ... maybe for 100-yard offhand shootin' ... but here are the 1st two groups ever fired from a new-to-me rifle, of unweighed balls @ 25-yards. One ragged hole groups are good enough for me! Next, I'll repeat this out @ 50-yards.
View attachment 326696
Wow....just wow.View attachment 328870View attachment 328871Well the struggle continues, I polished the bore and smoothed the muzzle using red scotch brite, I finished with JB bore polish.
Went back to the range and my groups are even worse, still getting ripped patches and everything seems to have opened up.
I’ve included some photos of patches for consideration. The patches marked “dry” where loaded and blown out with compressed air (the same lube was used across all tests dawn/water)
I tried loading with an undersized short starter (40) and had significant problems getting the ball started.
I’ve used a bore scope and see nothing in the bore that should be causing the tear but after blowing it out with compressed air 1/2 of the patches came out damaged.
Unfortunately I've already tried #40 drill, denim and canvas. Generally, I find this material to be among the most durable. I may double back and try the drill again to see how it fairs but originally it was shredding worse than this.Wow....just wow.
Those have to be the ugliest patches I have ever seen come out of the end of a muzzleloader!
Here is going to be my suggestion, I think it must be your patching material, I do not think it is your lubrication as I use spit patches and my patches look much better than that. (I assume you are not lubing the patches and then letting them dry, your patches should be damp)
Have you tried the #40 cotton drill from Jo-Ann's fabric, if not beg, borrow or steal some or drive the distance to get it.
The holes in the center of the patches should not be there and have nothing to do with the bore or any sharp edges at the muzzle.
Get some better patch material, make sure the patches are damp when loading and try again.
And load the pad with Flitz.....
I was pretty timid with the scotch brite as it was the red pad that is more abrasive but I'm going to hit it again with the green pad for 100 strokes and see if things improve.
The patches that are blown out in the middle indicate that it is getting burnt through or the patch is tearing upon loading from too tight a ball/patch combination. A rough bore or bad muzzle will tear the patch where the patch meets the bore, not in the middle.Unfortunately I've already tried #40 drill, denim and canvas. Generally, I find this material to be among the most durable. I may double back and try the drill again to see how it fairs but originally it was shredding worse than this.
I was pretty timid with the scotch brite as it was the red pad that is more abrasive but I'm going to hit it again with the green pad for 100 strokes and see if things improve.
I think you are on to the solution, personally I think any load that requires several "wacks" on the short starter is way to tight..526 balls now on order, hoping I can get it sorted before my next match. it is an EXTREMELY tight load currently. (short starter requiring several wacks with any patch material)
Hopefully this solves my woes but I think the stress of loading is ripping the patch I no longer think its related to the bore so I'm going to leave it alone for the next round of testing.
Any better source than track for .526 balls? They're kind of pricey?
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