Lee Moulds

[BigAl52]

I just got my first Lee mould but I have done casting in the past with cast iron moulds. I have done some research and I am well aware of what Lee says to do in there included instruction booklet. Just curious because I have read where some guys do and some guys dont smoke there moulds. Do you guys smokem or just preheat them on a hot plate a couple of times before using them.

 

[Whughett]

I smoke them with either a candle or my Zippo lighter. My Lyman mag furnace has a shelf for setting the iron molds on to heat.
Aluminum is such a fast conductor of heat I’ll frequently pre heat by just pouring a few bullets and dumping them back in the pot after they start looking good.

 

[Steve Martin]

I do BOTH, I smoke my molds with a lighter till the cavity is sooty black (which acts to make the cast balls release easier) and then pre-heat them by setting them on the edge of my Lee casting pot the duration of the time I'm casting. I still often have to re-melt the first two or three balls until everything is up to an even heat.

 

[Brokenbear]

Clean with alcohol is good
Black'em up with candle or lighter is good (even re-do every so often)
Set'em on top the furnace as it heats
Once heated a nano touch of bee's wax on the sprue hinge point and the mold halves guide pins
From here some will argue but while mold is hot I LIGHTLY wet a Qtip with bee's wax and wipe down the underside of the sprue plate then wipe down with a paper towel (Lightly means you have to look hard at where your Qtip has traveled to even see material transfer ..not slopped on!)
First or second casts from there on will be good to go
Ever 3/5000 bullets hit the bee's wax to sprue screw and guide pins ..re-smoke if/as needed

Bear

 

[brewer12345]

I never bother smoking any molds. Preheating is critical, so the hotplate gets a workout before I start casting. I actually fire up the hot plate before I even turn the melting pot on.

 

[hanshi]

I don't smoke the molds and they drop very good ball. I also don't smoke tobacco.

 

[Winchester97]

Making sure you wash the factory oil off the mold is critical, I smoke mine, not sure its as important on roundball, but I'm convinced it helps with fillout and release on conical or modern bullet molds.

 

[337]

The old single cavity with the taller sprue release better smoked.
The new almost non existent sprue double cavity I just throw in the fire and start casting.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I always pregeat the moulds with a torch,, and soot the moulds up with a candle before, during, and after casting. Doesn't matter what they're made of, sooting up a mould helps.

 

[BigAl52]

When I spoke of preheating not only did that apply to using the mould I was also curious if heating it up on a hotplate a couple of times before I ever used it the first time would help with roundball release. I fully intend on also precleaning the mould before I ever use it

 

[mooman76]

I preheat by setting on top the pot or dipping into the lead. I use to smoke but forgot at one point and didn't really notice a difference so I quit all together.

 

[Kansas Kid]

No smoke. Clean in solvent tank, pre heat real well and use sprue plate lube on q tip.

 

[Big Bob]

To each his own. I clean a new mold very thoroughly. I then use a Q-Tip to LIGHTLY coat the sprue plate, and alignment pins with 2 cycle oil (the one without any fuel stabilizer) I got mine at Wally World and then smoke it with a wood match prior to use. Go very lightly with the oil!!! I haven't used a hot plate yet, but I do throw the first 5 or so cast balls back into the pot. It works for me. I also use this method casting RCBS Hodgdon .58 for my Zouave. Good luck.
Bob

 

[oldwood]

I just broke in a double cavity Lee in .562. All i did is clean the oil out of the cavities w/ acetone on a cleaning patch. Went straight to casting after warming the sprue plate. Except for allowing the furnace catch up , continued to cast with only three defective , (my fault) , out of near 100 perfect .562's. Took them to the range using anew longrifle , Colerain barrel .58. My impression, w/ the good accuracy level it has and flat shooting power the rifle has , anything shot w/ it will die.................oldwood

 

[mushka]

New moulds I clean with alcohol and cue tips, dry, then smoke the mould and lightly lube the sprue plate. I repeat every so often.

 

[Pablo232]

I have many molds, both iron and Lee aluminum.

One of the nice things about the Lee molds is that you can bring them up to heat fast either by sitting them on the edge of the pot or by dipping the bottom of the blocks in the metal for a few seconds until the lead falls off when you pull the mold out (do NOT do this with iron molds!)

All molds do need a good going over with a degreaser and q-tip. and then I always smoked the cavity with a flame to assist with release. About a year ago I tried using a spray product from my auto store that sprays a graphite compound in a solvent. The solvent evaporates and leaves a micron thick coating of graphite in the cavity. I also spray the top surface of the mold, the sprue plate hinge and the locator pins..

This worked so well that I did all my iron molds the same way. It solved the sticking problem of a Lyman mold that had been an issue for years. It is a messy spray so do it outdoors away from doors, walls cars etc. The coating does not seem to wear off and on my iron molds helps with rust prevention.

 

[Rifleman1776]

First time used I either smoke or spray with a mould release. After that just use.

 

[Gtrubicon]

I clean with carb cleaner, I dont smoke the cavities on any of my molds. I do use a hot plate to pre heat my molds no matter what I’m casting. Keepers 1st round every time.

 

[Slip6]

I have many molds, both iron and Lee aluminum.

One of the nice things about the Lee molds is that you can bring them up to heat fast either by sitting them on the edge of the pot or by dipping the bottom of the blocks in the metal for a few seconds until the lead falls off when you pull the mold out (do NOT do this with iron molds!)

All molds do need a good going over with a degreaser and q-tip. and then I always smoked the cavity with a flame to assist with release. About a year ago I tried using a spray product from my auto store that sprays a graphite compound in a solvent. The solvent evaporates and leaves a micron thick coating of graphite in the cavity. I also spray the top surface of the mold, the sprue plate hinge and the locator pins..

This worked so well that I did all my iron molds the same way. It solved the sticking problem of a Lyman mold that had been an issue for years. It is a messy spray so do it outdoors away from doors, walls cars etc. The coating does not seem to wear off and on my iron molds helps with rust prevention.

What is it called and what auto parts store did you buy it at?

 

[Travis186]

Sometimes I smoke em, sometimes I don't. I like the idea of using a dry lube/graphite spray to lube the sprue plate, alignment pins and mold cavities; I will have to try this. For years I've kept a sharp #2 pencil on my casting bench and I use that to lube the sprue plate.