Lee R.E.A.L. bullets undersized ?

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RE REAL. I was gifted a few .58 to try out last Elk season and they dropped to the powder charge....easily. Not interested in trying to use these if they are that loose, I can spell BULGED BARREL and dont want to go further than the spelling.
 
I got a Lee mold with for 50 cal. 320 gr REAL bullets. Using 100% pure lead I poured five rounds to test out in my Traditions Hawkens style rifle. I set one in the muzzle to test fit and it dropped in all the way to the top "ring". The other "rings" never touched the riflings. I wasn't shooting today due to the rain, just dry fitting the rounds. I measured the rings and got.485"- .490" on the bottom , ..485-.490"" on the middle lower.490" -, .495" middle upper and.505"- .510" on the top. They all measured this way. Is this normal ? I can't imagine this soup can shaped bullet will stabilize and be accurate barely grabbing one ring. Same results with my Traditions Kentuckey rifle and a CVA unmentionable. Any thoughts or opinions ? -Thanks
It is normal but dropping that easy I would go to a 30-1 mix as those suckers will (not if ) come off the powder and that' s dangerous for barrel and will get your attention and be a lot more bang than a flinter going off/Ed
 
I tried the .50 REAL's in a couple of my M-L's - both traditional and unmentionables. I really liked the idea of casting and shooting my own bullets and shot about 100 rds. to try to make them work.
One (unmentionable) rifle had a pitted bore they shot horribly until I cut off the bottom off a sabot and made a "skirt" with it to seal the bore. Then it was accurate.
My newer unmentionable one with an almost pristine bore shoots the 250's pretty well with about 75 grs. of Pyrodex and to almost the same point of aim as a saboted 240 gr. .44 mag bullet.
I've taken deer with several M-L's and loads, and honestly, the patched round ball out of a traditional rifle was as effective as the REAL's out of my unmentionable rifles on small to medium deer out to 50-75 yds.
With the REAL's, lube didn't seem to make any difference other than ease of loading, and I don't think Lee recommends lube.
 
I tried the .50 REAL's in a couple of my M-L's - both traditional and unmentionables. I really liked the idea of casting and shooting my own bullets and shot about 100 rds. to try to make them work.
One (unmentionable) rifle had a pitted bore they shot horribly until I cut off the bottom off a sabot and made a "skirt" with it to seal the bore. Then it was accurate.
My newer unmentionable one with an almost pristine bore shoots the 250's pretty well with about 75 grs. of Pyrodex and to almost the same point of aim as a saboted 240 gr. .44 mag bullet.
I've taken deer with several M-L's and loads, and honestly, the patched round ball out of a traditional rifle was as effective as the REAL's out of my unmentionable rifles on small to medium deer out to 50-75 yds.
With the REAL's, lube didn't seem to make any difference other than ease of loading, and I don't think Lee recommends lube.
Directly quoted from Lee's instructions:
"LUBRICATION Any good commerical black powder lubricant wiped into the grooves works
well. Even a vegetable shortening such as Crisco will work. This is an area that you may wish to experiment, along with different charges for maximum accuracy."

When you find a proper lube, you will find that multiple loadings without cleaning will be easier and precision will be maintained for more shots. Felt wads under the REAL bullet, provide heat and gas cutting protection to the relatively narrow driving bands of the REAL bullet. Your plastic sabot seal is doing the same thing I'd reason.
 
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