Lengthening barrel pin holes on Kibler SMR

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Some faulty conclusions here... Wood can definitely move a significant amount. Believe me, I've seen it. You must elongate the the underlugs. I would suggest at least 1/16 for and aft of the original hole. Why wouldn't you trust someone who has devoted their life to this? Makes me want to shake my head...
 
I've always done the 3 hole thing going back to the late 70s. One in the middle and one on each end. Clean up with needle files. I don't understand why anyone would think this is overkill. It's recommended in Buchele and Shumway's book and Dixon's book.
 
..... You must elongate the the underlugs. I would suggest at least 1/16 for and aft of the original hole. ....
Using the jeweler's saw method as Jim recommends is the best way to accomplish this. Drilling two separate 1/16 holes adjacent to the original pin hole elongates it considerably more than what Jim recommends is appropriate for slot size. Most likely you're going to end up with a slot 5/16 in. in length rather than 3/16 in. in length. It's just not possible to manually drill another hole right next to an existing hole where the outer edge of the new hole intersects the original hole. It can't be done with a hand-held drill. Unless maybe you've got a drill press. If that's the case, then by all means, go for it.
 
Using the jeweler's saw method as Jim recommends is the best way to accomplish this. Drilling two separate 1/16 holes adjacent to the original pin hole elongates it considerably more than what Jim recommends is appropriate for slot size. Most likely you're going to end up with a slot 5/16 in. in length rather than 3/16 in. in length. It's just not possible to manually drill another hole right next to an existing hole where the outer edge of the new hole intersects the original hole. It can't be done with a hand-held drill. Unless maybe you've got a drill press. If that's the case, then by all means, go for it.
The length of the slot is irrelevant so long as it's slotted.
 
Some faulty conclusions here... Wood can definitely move a significant amount. Believe me, I've seen it. You must elongate the the underlugs. I would suggest at least 1/16 for and aft of the original hole. Why wouldn't you trust someone who has devoted their life to this? Makes me want to shake my head...
I absolutely agree. A really curley piece of maple depending on length can really lengthen significantly. As well as contract. I got bit on a customers gun where the forestock expanded so the nose cap end was a good 1/16 inch beyond the muzzle. Bending pins and causing mischief. I wound up refitting the nose cap and lengthening all the slots that I already had in the lugs. Come winter in a dry house the stock shrank till it had a solid 1/8 inch of muzzle end exposure if not a bit more. Come summertime 1/32. Or less, which the customer and I could live with. This was a super curley piece of red maple. Steel movement is insignificant in comparison to seasonal shanges in wood. No stock finish is a water vapor barrier. BJH
 
Well done Hatchet Jack and shows it is very easy to do and I've done it dozens of times over the last 44 years.
 
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