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jumbeaux

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This is my first year to hunt whitetail with my T/C White Mountain Carbine....I load 70 grains of Goex FFG, a bore butter .015" patch and a swaged .490 " round ball. Our season started this am and didn't see anything today...my question is: Can I leave my rifle loaded with the #11 cap removed and just recap when I go out again ?? Our season only lasts 14 days but I really don't want to fire my rifle everytime I come in....I loaded a clean bore but I have checked my point of aim in a clean bore and with a foulded bore and it is okay...need advice...

jumbeaux
 
Man that's a tough one. In about 1986 I suffered noboom syndrome and seen a doe levitate up a canyon wall. Since then I'm a fresh load person for hunting just for my peace of mind. On the other hand I frequently leave the hog and dog rifle loaded in the corner for a week at a time and it works just like a heathen cartridge gun.
If it was me and I was sure I had everything pin clean, I'd still probably pull the nipple and trickle a little powder in there just before setting up. Guess that one flying doe is burned into my soul.
 
It should be OK if the bore wasn't too oily. Having said that, I always like to fire one shot through a "clean" bore to burn out any oil. I wouldn't leave it loaded in the house tho.
 
If you carry the gun into and out of the house, it will condense moisture in the barrel, and its possible that the powder will be fouled. The secret is to leave it outside in some secure place when you are inside getting warm again!

If you have already taken it inside, I think you should pull this load, or fire it off, and then clean the barrel again. Use alcohol to flush out any remaining water, and let the alcohol evaporate.That will dry the barrel, powder chamber, and flash channel. Then put a new load i the barrel.

To provide a better vapor barrier, put a piece of plastic wrap under the PRB before driving both down the barrel. That will seal the powder from any moisture coming down the barrel. Use a good lube on the patch that won't dry out.

Then when you remove the cap when you get home, put a piece of plastic wrap over the nipple and lower the hammer down on top of it. That will seal the nipple so moisture can't get into the powder from that end.

Maintained this way, you should be able to go 2 weeks without ever worrying if the powder will ignite. I leave the plastic wrap on the nipple, and put the cap over it. When the cap fires, it easily burns through the plastic wrap and ignites the powder.

You don't have to spend money for Saran Wrap or some other wrap. If you buy bread, every loaf comes in a plastic bag. They work just fine for a seal on any percussion rifle. put the rest of the bag over your stockings, to keep the liners in your boots dry. That will keep your feet warmer, too. :thumbsup:
 
When you say, "Bring it in", do you mean inside, out of the cold? If so, then possible condensation problems this time of year with cold steel hitting warm air. Might be easier to just take the cap off of the nipple and leave the rifle out in the trunk of the car, in a soft case or rug. Temperature shouldn't vary more than 20-25 degrees, so that shouldn't cause too much concern. Using a Magnum #11 can't hurt either. Dropping in some 3F under the nipple can't hurt either. Every gun is different and reacts differently.

Good luck and bring home the meat!

Dave
 
I am gonna be leaving the rifle in the back floorboard of my truck so it will stay pretty close to the outside temp...it is in the floorboard right now...I appreciate the advice....will be hunting again Wednesday...

jumbeaux
 
Price of load to shoot.vs what you will pay to have the gun go off when the big buck is in your sights-priceless. Make up your mind based on cold hard prices.
 
Fire it off at the end of the huntin day. IMHO - reason I am now setting with a loaded rifle that I did just what you are and it didn't go off on Sat which was the last day of our M/L season here in Va.
 
I'd have no qualms in your climate. But it's a risk, however small. I wouldn't be bringing your rifle indoors each night, where warm moist air can cause condensation in your charge. I would also cover the nipple with something. I use a small tab of leather for a seal- put it on the nipple and lower the hammer to hold it in place.

Long term, I'd get one of those CO2 dischargers so you can unload without firing. Loads are cheap, but I recognize the hassle of cleaning each night after a long day's hunt. The C02 discharger allows you to start with a fresh load each day while not having to do a complete cleaning late at night.
 
Leave it locked in your vehicle in a case with no cap and the hammer down on the nipple with a note stuck between nipple and hammer that says "loaded".

If your gun fails to fire in four or five days, it will probably fail to fire right now! :shocked2:

You should dry all the oil residue out of the barrel with denatured alcohol and dry patches before loading to hunt. Do that the night before so the alcohol has plenty of time to evaporate and leave you a clean dry bore. Then load and it should go off no problem the next day, next month or even next year (not suggesting that you leave it loaded that long! :) )
 
Thought I'd give a short report....kept her loaded acouple of days and she went off just fine...Wednesday saw 4 does and an 8 point. The buck was in range but we have a 13" minimum inside width antler restriction in effect...so he had to walk...Gonna clean the rifle really good tonight then load her up and hit the woods in the morning...suppose to be 15*....I appreciate the help...hopefully I'll have a meat report soon...

jumbeaux
 
Just read your question about leaving your ML loaded during your deer season. Our ML season for deer (Minnesota) starts on the Saturday after Thanksgiving and ends on the third weekend in December. I've hunted with my Lyman Trade rifle for the past 10 years and have always left it loaded and just removed the cap at the end of the day. Never had a problem with ignition. I usually wait until the end of the last day of the season to "unload it" and it's always worked great. For safety sake I always leave it in my outside shed with the muzzle propped so it's in a safe direction (my range area). Leaving it outside also keeps the storage temperature consistant too. Hope this is helpful.
 
Contrary to many people's beliefs, black powder does not attract moisture, only after it is fired does moisture come into play. I bring the rifle into the house, darn the temprature change, remove the cap and place a piece of 2-3 oz. suede deer skin leather over the nipple and lower the hammer. The next day, I use a new cap. In fact, I change the cap about three times if I am hunting all day. No problems. Rifles have been left loaded for one hundred years and have still fired.
 
The buck was in range but we have a 13" minimum inside width antler restriction in effect...so he had to walk

How the heck do they expect you to get them to stand still and be measured. :)
 
You're correct! Even pan prime doesn't get soggy by attracting moisture; it's the pan metal, itself, that condenses moisture. Same for main charge; black powder is stable stuff.
 
Not far from here it is 14 inch from outside to out side. You can guestamate that as wide as his ears. Rough but as you say a tape and a running deer ain't going to get it. :) Larry Wv
 
Actually, as my tests indicated, it is not the metal that attracts moisture (unless it is very cold and placed in a warm humid room).

The thing that attracts moisture in a flintlocks pan is the fouling that is left there before repriming.

See this link for a Topic I made on this subject
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...260/post/284225/hl/SOUP8/fromsearch/1/#284225

On the "very cold metal" issue I mentioned above, if one were to bring their fully loaded and primed flintlock into a warm room after carrying it around in the cold, outside, it could condense moisture into the pans prime but, no one who has a lick of brains would carry a fully loaded, primed flintlock inside, would they?
 
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I have a CVA hawken .50 that I leave loaded for the whole MN Firearms season 2 weeks.
The only problem I have ever had is a cap failing to fire.
I load the Rifle on the evening before the season starts. I leave the Rifle out in the Truck all night. I take the cap off every night and put a new cap on every morning.
At the end of the season I fire the Rifle and have never had a problem with it failing to fire (except the bad cap).
 
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