loading block vs loose components

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pinemarten

40 Cal.
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New at shooting the black powder. So far, I have enjoyed loading greased patch and ball into a maple loading block I made. It is an 8 load (hole block). It seems to work real nice and I use a short starter. Wondering if there is any advantage to using loose balls and patch material vs having it neatly fit into a block? I do realize that if you are going to shoot over the number of shots that your block has, you might as well just use loose wad and ball. But, what advantages/disadvantages are there between using a loading block vs free components in your shooting bag. My focus is on roving and hunting, so I am shooting and loading without aid of a shooting bench.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Flintlock obsessed Daniel
 
I don't use a loading block but I do not hunt anymore either. I would think that a loading block would have it's advantages when your out roaming and hunting. If you have premeasured tubes for your BP, all you have to do is dump the powder in and place your loading block over your muzzle, and ram the PB home and your ready to go! Makes sense to me. Keeps you from having to fish around in you possibles bag. Seems to me that a loading block would be quicker. I am really not in a position to comment though because I have never used one. Just my two cents. Respectfully, cowboys1062.
 
I use a loading block when deer hunting and carry pre-measured powder in containers (45-70) cartridges with a cork stopper. At the range I load from the pouch or shooting box.
 
I have used loading blocks and like them. If deer hunting, having an 8-holer is too big for me...but if squirrel hunting with a rifle where one is likely to do more shooting, that would be good.

The bad side of them, IMO, is that the bottom of the patch picks up "stuff" that sticks to it. And of course for people that cut at the muzzle and use a strip of patch material, a loading block is a non-starter.

If they work for you and you like them, use 'em!
 
I have loading blocks.....I even make loading blocks......but they are not my first or favorite choice.....
It's a personal preference for people......
 
pinemarten said:
what advantages/disadvantages are there between using a loading block vs free components in your shooting bag.
None, 6 of one - half dozen of the other.
It's nothing more then person preference and learned technique.
I'm a switch hitter myself.
The only place I use loading blocks now are at Rendezvous events that are timed.
I hunt with loose components.
I just like it that way.
 
Depends what you're doing.

When I'm at the range or a rendezvous shoot I use strips of ticking and keep an end tucked in my mouth. When I'm ready to load another shot I reach in my bag and grab one of the loose balls rolling around in the bottom (very little else in there), cut the spit-lubed patch at the muzzle, and ram 'er home.
When I have to do a speed shoot scenario I bare ball.

When I'm deer hunting I use a grease type lube. There is a small roll of greased ticking in a small greased leather pouch in my bag for slow reloads. There is a 2-shot loading block hanging around my neck for quick reloads if necessary.

Small game hunting I don't use a loading block but still use the greased ticking roll.

Loading blocks have never been proven to exist (that I am aware of) during the pre-Rev/Rev time period that I try to emulate. Some rondys I go to don't allow them. Some do.
 
Jethro224 said:
Loading blocks have never been proven to exist (that I am aware of)
:hmm: Interesting.
I have no reason to doubt that,, I just never considered hc/pc for a loading block.
:doh:
 
I only use mine when hunting. No need for one at the range. Mine holds 10 patched balls. It's a lot more convenient than fumbling around with each separate component.
I also have a piece of scrap leather with the correct size holes punched in it to hold caps rather than fumble with trying to get them out of the tin each time. I wear the "capper" around my neck, everything else goes in the hunting bag.
 
I have found shooting blocks to be a great time saver while hunting. I use my .45 flinter for deer hunting and have never had an occasion where I needed more than two shots.

I carry a piece of antler that is round in cross-section at one end and flattens out at the other. I hollowed out the round end with a large drill bit to hold 70 gr. of 3F and corked the open end.
When I need to reload in a hurry, I pull the cork, dump the powder in the barrel and then ram the patched ball home. It works like a charm.



At the range or hog hunting, I use a "4-holer" that is probably on the order of your 8-holer.

 
Jethro224 said:
Loading blocks have never been proven to exist (that I am aware of) during the pre-Rev/Rev time period

They are simple to make and anyone with a brain could "think one up". People in the early history of firearms had brains just like us. I can't imagine that they didn't use them.

I think rondy organizers get carried away with their self-importance kinda like home-owners' associations.
 
I use loading blocks for most of my shooting...both at range sessions and while hunting. The reason I do so is familiarity and to continually check if my loading block is consistent 100% of the time.

The loading block is strung from the neck w/ a long leather boot lace and attached to the lace is either a priming horn or capper depending on the type of MLer.

The powder is supplied by powder packets made from rolled up paper that has the flap stapled and then dipped in canning wax. All that's needed to load the powder is to rip off the flap w/ one's teeth and pour. One good thing about these packets is that they're completely waterproof and have used some that were 10 yrs old w/o complications. No need to save the empty packet as w/ containers.

This setup is my "speed loading" which has worked well for squirrels, snowshoe hares, deer and elk.....Fred
 
For the longest time, I just loaded my balls one at a time without a loading block. I had tried several loading blocks that I had bought at friendship and had various problems with all of them so I quit using a loading block. Then one day I came up with an idea for a loading block. I am sure it is not at all unique but I had to discover it on my own. Most matches are five shots per target or per round. So, I made my blocks to hold five patched balls. It was not only handy but it made sure that I shot exactly five shots per target. The improvement that I devised, and I am sure it was thought of long before the idea hit me, was to drill a recess for each hole in the back side of the block. The recess was drilled using a spade bit that made a hole that exactly fit over the muzzle of my barrel. This recess is about 1/4 inch deep. The purpose is to center the ball over the muzzle before using a short starter to start the ball into the muzzle. The one downside to it is that you have to start with a thicker piece of wood to allow for the depth of the recess. This adds a bit of weight to the block. But, if you are shooting from a bench, this is of no concern.

Let me reenterate, I am not claiming to have discovered or invented anything new, just saying that it is something that occurred to me, I tried it and it works.
 
My personal preference is to cut the patch at the muzzle! In this manner I know the ball is centered up in the patch. If a block is used maybe it would be beneficial to make certain that the ball and patch is centered within the block hole. :wink:
 
For my .36, I use a block with the intent of multiple shot opportunities. I find it more convenient than carrying loose components.
 
Every one has their own opinion on loading blocks. I have used them for over fifty years and have my personal opinions. 1. They make shooting easier than "fumbling around" with loose balls,greased cloth and a sharp knife when loading.(I am a natural klutz).2. I notice no difference in accuracy as long as the loading block is filled reasonably before shooting, if loaded up several months before hand, accuracy goes down. (I assume that the patch dries out and sticks to the ball further out the muzzle). 3.When shooting several different paper targets with a certain number of shots at each target they make it easier to keep track of how many shots at which target. These are my personal opinions and worth exactly what you paid for them! :hmm:
 
I have never used them.

I do have quick load tubes, but I have not used those too much either.

I suppose if you are worried about getting stuff gunked on to patches a leather sleeve could be made for a loading block.
 
Patocazador said:
Jethro224 said:
Loading blocks have never been proven to exist (that I am aware of) during the pre-Rev/Rev time period

They are simple to make and anyone with a brain could "think one up". People in the early history of firearms had brains just like us. I can't imagine that they didn't use them.

I think rondy organizers get carried away with their self-importance kinda like home-owners' associations.

Could be. But, if I want to play on their field, I gotta play by their rules. Honestly, some of the strictest events can be some of the best if approached with the right attitude.
Either way, it's no skin off my nose if they don't allow loading blocks or short starters. I can still load and shoot just as well.
 
For me it depends on caliber. I'm a field shooter, and it takes about 10 .290 balls to get one in the muzzle when working with loose components and gloves or cold hands in grass or snow. Into the loading blocks they go. I "cut at the muzzle" when filling my loading blocks, mostly because all my loading with loose components is with strips, so that's what's in the house. Starting at about 50 caliber I swap to loose components.

I do have blocks in 50, 54 and 58 caliber for really cold weather, but those are for emergencies. Above 58 caliber, it's all loose, no matter the weather and what's on the ground. Those big balls are just a lot easier to find when you drop them! :rotf:

As for historically correct? Folks back in the day didn't have toilet paper either, so I figure I'm not the only one breaking a rule or two. :wink:
 
Been shooting BP just shy of a half century & have never used a loading block. I think about it often (while at the range) but just never get around to it. Don't cut at the muzzle anymore, either, but I do extensively use premeasured powder tubes (10ml centrifuge tubes) one of the Ozzie members spoke of a few years ago. They're waterproof, lightweight & the cap is attached, so it only takes a flick of the thumb (one hand) to open.
 
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