loading block vs loose components

[Rifleman1776]

It is a personal choice thing. I have used both loose and block for hunting. The block is really handy but I use a short starter and that is an extra to carry also. At the range I shoot all loose and cut patch at the muzzle.

 

[Bon Sauvage]

Well, I think that is a mighty fine idea.

 

[Billnpatti]

My personal preference is to cut the patch at the muzzle! In this manner I know the ball is centered up in the patch. If a block is used maybe it would be beneficial to make certain that the ball and patch is centered within the block hole. :wink:

When I load a block, I do it the same as cutting at the muzzle. I press the ball and lubed patching material into the block and then cut the excess patching material off with my knife. The ball is centered in the patch the same as if it was cut at the muzzle.

 

[Artificer]

Do most people who use them nowadays use one size drill bit to bore out the hole for the patched ball OR do they use a tapered reamer in the hole so one side of the loading block hole is larger than the other?

Gus

 

[BrownBear]

Do most people who use them nowadays use one size drill bit to bore out the hole for the patched ball OR do they use a tapered reamer in the hole so one side of the loading block hole is larger than the other?

Gus

I use one drill bit, then hit the top side gently with a countersink- just enough to "break" the edge and ease filling the block.

I'm VERY specific about block thickness. I make them the same thickness as ball diameter. When I seat the ball just below the top surface before cutting the patch, it leaves a little of the ball protruding from the bottom of the block. That vastly eases "indexing" the ball over the muzzle by feel for loading. Priceless in the field with gloves or low light.

 

[Artificer]

Interesting. Thanks for the detailed info. How about anyone else?

Gus

 

[Vaino]

I drill the hole slightly undersize and then wrap sandpaper around a split mandrel and achieve a hole size that easily accepts the PRB. Instead of cutting a ctbr that fits the bbl octagon to center the PRB w/ the bore, I just push the
PRB so just less than half the dia protrudes from the bottom....this locates the PRB exactly w/ the bore.

I've never cut at the muzzle because I'm a hunter and not a target shooter. But to each his/her own....Fred

 

[Artificer]

Interesting. I like the idea of the split mandrel and sandpaper to carefully enlarge the hole. Thanks Fred. Anyone else?

Gus

 

[BrownBear]

Coupla additions or expansions on Fred's point on sanding to enlarge. Same here, but gently. You have to sand enough to remove any burs, but there's not much worse than loose balls in a block, so go easy.

Second point, before each "try" of a patched ball into a new hole, reach in and squish some lube around. The ball will hang in a dry hole and convince you it's still too tight.... Until sufficient lube builds up to slick things real good. Once I'm sure everything is right, I give each hole a real thorough final lubing before I put the block into use.

Grease lubes for me, of course.

 

[Stophel]

I tend to cut patches at the muzzle... but I don't even have a rifle of my own, and haven't for years! Something I intend to rectify soon.

I can use a loading block, and I have made several, though they do not seem to be historical beyond the mid 19th century.

I know they actually did keep pre cut patches in their patchboxes, but having to handle the patches always seemed less than convenient to me. I guess I just didn't ever practice enough and get the proper rhythm going.

 

[pinemarten]

...went out with the .50 flinter today to snowshoe for snowshoes. Didn't see a one, but lots a tracks. Shot a lot of stumps and alternated between using the loose ball and patch vs my loading block. I have a pocket in the back of the shooting bag which is open at top and easy to pull block from. I use bear grease and ticking. My maple block works real good. I cut patches flush after pushing the ball with the short starter so its just coming through. centers in bore easily that way. Block is just tight enough that I need starter to get them in there, but I like that it holds them so they don't pop out when their not supposed to!

Daniel

 

[tenngun]

I think they are hc, but that's s long useless argument, to avoid crap I don't carry one to an event. The last time I used one was s five shot competition , it was loaded with 5 ball and made sure I didn't shoot to few or many shots. In the field and not having Pontiac after us a quick second shot ain't needed. You can save a few seconds but while hunting not enough to make worth the extra in your bag. I like to load from the same equipment I take to an event, I hunt in historic clothing.
When I made them they were just a plain hole in a board just a little thicker then the ball.

 

[Patocazador]

I cut the hole slightly undersize with one bit after starting it with a wood drill bit (spade type) the size of my patch. Then I drill the hole for the ball/patch combo. Laying the pre-punched patch ala Ohio Ramrod in the counter-sunk portion and then centering the sprue of the ball is much easier IMO.

 

[larry wv]

I carry an ugly homemade 4 shot tapered block. I hunt with which ever rifle floats my boat when I head out the door to hunt. It is .45 .50 .54 .58 narrow to wider. Don't have to worry about losing it we all know you can't lose something cheap and ugly. :grin:

Larry

 

[Artificer]

Coupla additions or expansions on Fred's point on sanding to enlarge. Same here, but gently. You have to sand enough to remove any burs, but there's not much worse than loose balls in a block, so go easy.

Second point, before each "try" of a patched ball into a new hole, reach in and squish some lube around. The ball will hang in a dry hole and convince you it's still too tight.... Until sufficient lube builds up to slick things real good. Once I'm sure everything is right, I give each hole a real thorough final lubing before I put the block into use.

Grease lubes for me, of course.

Thanks for the additional information, which I found interesting and useful.

I wondered about sealing the drilled hole with finish oil and what that would do to reduce the size of the hole, but grease would pretty well seal the loading block wood and not increase the hole size as much or at all. I can definitely see what you mean that a bare hole might seem too small before grease/lubrication is used in the hole.

I have not made a loading block since the 70's, so I don't trust my memory fully about how to make a good one. That is part of the reason I asked this question.

It seems to me that often, if not usually, when we talk about using loading blocks - we don't seem to talk much about how to make them. I don't believe this is straying from the OP's question, as a loading block that is too tight/loose or not well made, would be a problem compared to using separate ball and patch. So I think tips and advice how to make them is a good thing, especially for those new to making a loading block or considering making one.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

I cut the hole slightly undersize with one bit after starting it with a wood drill bit (spade type) the size of my patch. Then I drill the hole for the ball/patch combo. Laying the pre-punched patch ala Ohio Ramrod in the counter-sunk portion and then centering the sprue of the ball is much easier IMO.

Never thought about counter sinking the block for the patch size. Interesting. Thank you for posting this.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

...went out with the .50 flinter today to snowshoe for snowshoes. Didn't see a one, but lots a tracks. Shot a lot of stumps and alternated between using the loose ball and patch vs my loading block. I have a pocket in the back of the shooting bag which is open at top and easy to pull block from. I use bear grease and ticking. My maple block works real good. I cut patches flush after pushing the ball with the short starter so its just coming through. centers in bore easily that way. Block is just tight enough that I need starter to get them in there, but I like that it holds them so they don't pop out when their not supposed to!

Daniel

In important factor for a loading block to be sure!

Gus

 

[pinemarten]

Well said...
I do want to add that my developing preference for a 8 hole preloaded block is for simplification. I am not trying to load fast. It just means less loose components. I am still doing both as I get used to the rifle and learn. I am really new at this.

Daniel

 

[Rifleman1776]

a loading block that is too tight/loose or not well made, would be a problem compared to using separate ball and patch. So I think tips and advice how to make them is a good thing, especially for those new to making a loading block or considering making one.

you are right. But everything in this game requires a learning curve. When I sell or give away a loading block (I have made many) I tell the new owner the hole may need to be enlarged to accomodate his own ball/patch combo. This can easily be done with sandpaper. For mine, I rub beeswax around the inside of the hole to sorta lube it and seal the rough end grain caused by drilling.

 

[Artificer]

a loading block that is too tight/loose or not well made, would be a problem compared to using separate ball and patch. So I think tips and advice how to make them is a good thing, especially for those new to making a loading block or considering making one.

you are right. But everything in this game requires a learning curve. When I sell or give away a loading block (I have made many) I tell the new owner the hole may need to be enlarged to accomodate his own ball/patch combo. This can easily be done with sandpaper. For mine, I rub beeswax around the inside of the hole to sorta lube it and seal the rough end grain caused by drilling.

Good point and this sort of leads to another question. Do you originally drill the hole as near as possible, but still at or UNDER the bore size, and then sand out to where it fits the ball and patch?

Gus