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Mean Gene

40 Cal.
Joined
May 16, 2016
Messages
432
Reaction score
28
Location
People's Republic Calif
It's not exactly what I would call a speed loader but I'm going to the range tomorrow and trying out my new loading block.
If it turns out to be a pain to use I'll probably just set it aside and go back to loading with out.
 
I find them more useful when hunting than on the range. On the range I find them just one more thing to carry, and my homemade blocks don't hold enough for an entire woods walk, so would have to carry several of them. While hunting, when I don't expect to have many shots, they do help some for a quicker reload.
 
I use loading blocks for hunting, along with paper cartridges of powder. I prefer not to carry my powder horn for hunting as I often use tree stands. In tight quarters, the horn becomes one thing that can go klunk at the wrong time. I havent used my loading blocks for range shooting since I gave up on grease based lubes. BJH
 
I had one with 3-4 holes in it that worked well. That said, I never needed to use it while hunting. I stopped using one altogether because it could not be documented to the F&I, Rev War and/or Fur Trade periods.
 
I always use a loading block when shooting....whether on the range or when hunting. Mainly a hunter and using a loading block all the time just "gets me in a habit".

For small game, mainly squirrels in the fall and snowshoes in the winter, a 5 hole loading block is used. For big game, a 4 hole is used.

My pre-measured powder charges are in paper packets that have been dipped in canning wax and this preserves the "freshness" of the powder.....some packets are 5 yrs old and are still "fresh". The end of the powder packet is ripped open w/ the teeth....how's that for being "rustic"?

After the powder packet is emptied and the loading block supplies the PRB, all that's left is either priming or capping.....a small, not very accurate priming horn is used and the capper is a length of leather w/ caps inserted.

Not "speed loading" ,but it surely gets the job done on time and the many bag limits attest to that fact......Fred
 
Frenchman said:
:surrender: colorado clyde I read in other sections that you don't speed load why then use a loading block :idunno:
You are jumping to conclusions and making assumptions....
Using a loading block and being in a hurry are not one and the same....
That said!...I usually don't use a loading block when shooting...But!...When I do, I find that smaller ones are easier to manage....especially as bullet diameter increases...
 
Clyde, I have a bunch of loading blocks as a result of having several different calibers of rifles. For those that I carried hunting, I had a two ball block for each caliber. I hung the appropriate block around my neck for the caliber of rifle I was carrying. I figured that if one ball in the chamber and two back up shots don't bring down my deer, I need to go home anyway. However, when shooting at the range, I have blocks that hold five balls that I use. The reason for five balls is that is how many shots we allow on each target. The block doesn't hang around my neck, it lays on the bench. It is a way to keep my patched balls handy as well as helping me keep count on how many shots I have fired. I don't remember ever using a loading block when doing a woods walk. I kept my balls in a draw string bag and a strip of patching for cutting patches at the muzzle. It just eliminated a bunch of wood blocks in my bag.

I'll be the first to say that it's my way but it ain't the only way. :hatsoff:
 
I use an have loading blocks on every one of my bags. They are positioned so that they ride in the middle of my chest. I am a hunter an I do not like having to go inside my bag while hunting. The size of the block an how many balls it holds depends on the caliber an use of the rifle. My.62 which is for deer/hog hunting has a block that holds 2 balls. No more is needed or wanted due to weight of the ball and the fact that your not gonna get or need no more shots than that although inside that bag is another loading block that holds 6 more balls. My .40 cal bag has a block that holds 10 balls an even with that many I cant even tell its there. Its what I squirrel hunt an plink/target shoot with so naturally it get shot lots more than the 62. I also have another block inside my bag that holds another dozen balls for my .40 cal. I was taught to load like this with blocks as a teenager by 2 old gentlemen in their late 70s that grew up hunting with loading blocks on their bags. I can remember that they could shoot a squirrel an be reloaded in just a few seconds using this method an I have used it since then.
 
Range report::thumbsup: I have to agree with Clyde, I think one set up for three or four shots would be good.
The one I have is made for ten shots and is a bit cumbersome to load with especially with a disability to my left hand, I think a smaller one would be easier to handle.
As for general use of a block It saves the fumbling around I would have done otherwise so it does save some time.
 
Just make your own. All it takes is a piece of wood, a drill bit of the proper size, sandpaper, and maybe a bit of oil or stain to finish it.Cheaper, usually better made, and they will be exactly what you wanted, and if not, just make another that you'll be happy with.
 
Mean Gene said:
Hi Billnpatti, can you recommend some where to get smaller loading blocks?

Thanks Gene.

I am not sure, Gene, since I make mine from good hardwood. I prefer to use hard Maple to make mine but I have used other hardwoods when I didn't have any hard Maple. Soft woods do not make good loading blocks due to their tendency to split easily.

If I were to guess where to buy loading blocks, my guess would be some place like Track of The Wolf, Dixie Gun works, The Log Cabin Shop, etc. All of these places have websites. I'll do as bit of looking for you and see what I come up with. :thumbsup:
 
They are a fun project to make. I ground down a spade bit to the right size to drill holes for a .54 loading block because I didn't have a 35/64 drill bit.

Of course if you start making them you get to make one for all your friends who shoot the same cal as you do.

I used a broken osage bow limb for this one.



Here is the drill bit size chart;
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/192279/
 
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When I use a loading block or make one, I like the thickness of the block to allow the ball to partly protrude from the block. The distance between the holes in the block should be slightly greater than 1/2 of the barrel width. The protruding ball can easily be located over the muzzle and aligned with the bore.
 
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