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And after my message you still don't understand post #94.

No, I confess that I don't, but then English is not even my second language. To me, the instructions that were produced at the time that these guns were made were deemed to be valid and, to me, and many tens of thousands of other users of both real and replica black powder revolvers, remain so.

If you are asking if this be still the case, and this is not what you mean, perhaps you'd be kind enough to explain what you do mean.
 
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While working the kinks out of a relatively new Pietta "sheriff" I've again become interested in a modification previously considered for percussion revolvers, of rounding up the oval chambers but only taking the reaming to the depth of a chosen mold design. That way the taper at the bottom of the reaming could provide a compression fit for the base of the bullet. The height of the powder column would be adjusted to fill the resulting space with slight compression. The area of the chamber immediately above the original diameter would have lead expanded outwards to the chamber wall and above that the coating of lube on the bullet.
When loading round ball the chambers would of course simply have the benefit of projectiles being much closer to the diameter of the rifling.
All I'll need to do is to study the various molds' designs to select the depth and diameter of reaming.
 
Have been shooting C&B revolvers for over 40 years. Have heard of ring-fires, even saw the results of one, once. Not a pretty sight. Never had one. (Knock on wood!) When I started, 'Grease Ball' was the lube of choice. Can't find it anymore, so I have been using pre-lubed felt plugs. Lubing is mainly to prevent fouling anyway and make clean ups easier. As for preventing ring-fires, wiping the cylinder face prevents this, not so much the lube. Incidentally, all that I know of C&B revolvers I learned from a 'true old timer,' when I was young; a neighbor in his 90s that had, according to him had actually used C&B revolvers in his youth. So, he probably knew a thing or two. More to the point, instead of loading with loose powder, I use commercially made paper cartridges. A bit pricey, perhaps, but much more convenient. plus, I compared the cost of pre-made to making my own. Not really that much difference.
 
While working the kinks out of a relatively new Pietta "sheriff" I've again become interested in a modification previously considered for percussion revolvers, of rounding up the oval chambers but only taking the reaming to the depth of a chosen mold design. That way the taper at the bottom of the reaming could provide a compression fit for the base of the bullet. The height of the powder column would be adjusted to fill the resulting space with slight compression. The area of the chamber immediately above the original diameter would have lead expanded outwards to the chamber wall and above that the coating of lube on the bullet.
When loading round ball the chambers would of course simply have the benefit of projectiles being much closer to the diameter of the rifling.
All I'll need to do is to study the various molds' designs to select the depth and diameter of reaming.

Charlie Hahn has reamed quite a few cylinders for me and he will stop at any depth you ask him to. I have him ream full depth, or in the case of rebated (Colt) cylinders, stop before the locking notches. My thinking is that if I were at the range one day, having left my filler home, and decided to plink with a reduced load I could still seat the projectile down on the powder without being limited by the depth of the reaming.

http://www.hahnmachineworks.com/
 
No, I confess that I don't, but then English is not even my second language. To me, the instructions that were produced at the time that these guns were made were deemed to be valid and, to me, and many tens of thousands of other users of both real and replica black powder revolvers, remain so.

If you are asking if this be still the case, and this is not what you mean, perhaps you'd be kind enough to explain what you do mean.
Check your mail
 
A lot of people back in the day took a head shot. You see photos of corpses with bullet holes in the head.
True -- the people NOT shot in the head shot were more likely NOT not to become corpses ;-)))))
[/QUOTE]
The odds were overwhelming that the vast majority of people shot in the head would become corpses.
 
The only period use of "goop" I ever read about was the Texas Rangers using pork fat from their ration over the Pickett bullet in their Walkers , to keep the guns running due to the tremendous fouling the 50-60gr charges produced. I've tried it with Tallow, it cooks it up into a luby, hot grease upon firing that does indeed keep the fouling soft and the gun running for a few cylinders. Those guys were on to something, field expedient methods are often the best. None of this use of pork fat had anything to do with preventing chain fires.

I'd imagine it was applied right before expected "contact" because it would likely run out of the chamber in the heat.
 
Charlie Hahn has reamed quite a few cylinders for me and he will stop at any depth you ask him to. I have him ream full depth, or in the case of rebated (Colt) cylinders, stop before the locking notches. My thinking is that if I were at the range one day, having left my filler home, and decided to plink with a reduced load I could still seat the projectile down on the powder without being limited by the depth of the reaming.

http://www.hahnmachineworks.com/
He does a great job and it’s not expensive…
 
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