Loading the cap and ball

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

longcruise

70 Cal.
Joined
Feb 28, 2005
Messages
10,046
Reaction score
8,460
Location
Colorado
I have two BP pistols. One is an FIE "45" caliber. In quotes because it won't load with anything larger than a 433 ball. And a Pietta 1860 army. So, loading the FIE is no mystery to me but I think I've been making the 1860 unnecessarily difficult. My load is simple, powder, ball and a smear of lube over the chamber.

However, I load it by freeing the cylinder, pouring powder into the cylinder put a ball on the chamber and press the ball into the cylinder. It just dawned on me today that it would be simpler to pour powder down from the Muzzle one chamber at a time and then press the balls In.

Is this more the way it's done by you pistoleros?
 
Never seen or heard of it done that way. Seems to me that you'd have a problem making sure all the powder gets into the chamber, the forcing cone being a junction between source and destination, and maybe some powder scattered by that junction, and/or or powder getting hung up in the bore by fouling.

Why don't you give it a try and report back to the board on how it works out for you?

FWIW, if you're just looking for simpler loading, seems to me paper cartridges are the way to go.
 
I might try this next time I'm shooting. It is probably one of those solutions to a nonexistent problem. 😀
I would not put powder down the barrel for all the reasons mentioned. Cap & Ball revolvers are designed to be loaded directly into the cylinder. I use a funnel that I made from the neck and case of 30-30 brass. The neck fits into the cylinder bore of .36 - .44 revolvers, the case is cut at an angle about 3/8” above the neck. Makes it much easier to pour the powder in. I can dig it out of my box and snap a photo of it if you want.
 
No need to do a photo. Your description makes it clear. And, I do have plenty of 30-30 brass and no 30-30. 😀
 
No need to do a photo. Your description makes it clear. And, I do have plenty of 30-30 brass and no 30-30. 😀
Not that you need it, but I was bored and just piddling with stuff so I took a few pictures anyway. Had forgotten that I had a spout that wasn’t tapered. I have several 45 acp brass cut to various loads 15 - 30 grains. And I always have a couple of wooden dowels handy for snugging down caps to tapping down wads should you ever use them.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2935.jpeg
    IMG_2935.jpeg
    1.6 MB
  • IMG_2937.jpeg
    IMG_2937.jpeg
    1.5 MB
  • IMG_2938.jpeg
    IMG_2938.jpeg
    1.3 MB
  • IMG_2939.jpeg
    IMG_2939.jpeg
    1.2 MB
  • IMG_2940.jpeg
    IMG_2940.jpeg
    1.4 MB
Pouring powder down the bore of a cap and ball revolver is a thoroughly bad idea. Powder granules could adhere to soft fouling and light up on the next shot.

The loading port or window is built into the gun for a reason. My suggestion is to do it the way it has always been intended to be done. That simple procedure does not need to be reinvented.
 
This puppies have been working for over a century and a half, no need to re-invent the wheel!!
I use the same one with a 30gr spout. It was metric, aint no more.
I load powder, wad, ball, and let it fly.
Lately since I poured a pile of money into paper cartridges, I can preload them at home.
At the range it takes about 30 seconds to load all six.
Be advised, it takes longer to make the cartridges than just loading it by hand.
I do 50 at a time.
 
I use the same one with a 30gr spout. It was metric, aint no more.
I load powder, wad, ball, and let it fly.
Lately since I poured a pile of money into paper cartridges, I can preload them at home.
At the range it takes about 30 seconds to load all six.
Be advised, it takes longer to make the cartridges than just loading it by hand.
I do 50 at a time.

That's probably the ideal solution to loading 👌. Not one that I'll be getting into at this point since I'm less than an occasional cap n ball shooter.
 
Back
Top