No, I don't... Materials for each rod are about $30, and I honestly don't have the time right now to turn it into a business. Maybe when I retire.....I seen your rods - Do you sell them?? I'd be interested in a few depending on cost.
No, I don't... Materials for each rod are about $30, and I honestly don't have the time right now to turn it into a business. Maybe when I retire.....I seen your rods - Do you sell them?? I'd be interested in a few depending on cost.
NopeAfter having a ramrod break off and stab through my hand
If striking two pieces of steel together could create a spark, you wouldn't need a piece of flint in your rifle.
Or your fire making kit, or modern lighter...
That's why I put a brass cone on mine to keep the rod centeredAs others have pointed out, major military forces used steel ramrods since the age of the Brown Bess at least.
The biggest reason not to use a steel ramrod is wear on the bore and rifling. For this reason, many N-SSA shooters use brass replacements. S&S Firearms sells them. I use them in all my rifled muzzle loaders.
That's the problem. "good" is hard to find and the "if" part complexcates the equation.A good wooden ramrod won't break if you know how to use one.
I haven't had a problem with either one for some reason. I do end up with some extra hickory "dowels" that won't pass inspection though.That's the problem. "good" is hard to find and the "if" part complexcates the equation.
A spark ?After having a ramrod break off and stab through my hand 1.5 miles back hunting in a swamp and having to wrap my hand in a cut up t-shirt and walk out dripping blood and getting 7 stiches from it - I now never load any of my muzzleloaders with a wood rod. If I'm on a range or woods walk I always load with a steel range rod, or if I'm hunting I have a synthetic rod i use. The wood rods are just for show for me at this point in my life as I simply don't trust them.
Anyways I had a fellow muzzleloader guy (self proclaimed) tell me last night while I was practicing for Friendship coming up in a few weeks, that its very dangerous to use a steel rod. He said the steel from the rod rubbing on steel muzzle can create a spark and ignite the powder. I asked him how it would get past the tight fitting patch and round ball to even get to the powder in the first place and was told that I couldn't load with a steel rod on the range, and that's why "Unmentionable ML's" use aluminum rods, and that a steel rod is designed for cleaning the barrel only. I finished ramming the last ball home fired it off and left. I guess I won't be back to that range anymore. Question is am I wrong? It's also not a written rule anywhere to be found for the range either that are posted up everywhere.
PS this was a local state ran range and the guy worked for the state, and came down to make sure I paid my daily fee to shoot.
I would contact the range administrator, or whoever is in charge of the range and relate your story , be sure to mention the military muskets using steel rods and your use of a brass bore protector, also ask about the rules and how much discretion the range master has.The wooden ram rod broke off about 4" from the muzzle and my hand was right above it. There was about 18 inches or ram rod left outside the gun. Now this was on a very cold winter day in Michigan too - not sure if the cold led to it. Also the gun was a 54 cal and preferred a .535 ball and .018 pillow ticking, which was a tight load.
The steel rod I use does have a brass muzzle guide on it.
I have Brass range rods and guides in different sizes but I can say I have never broken a wood rod, if this is the case itās because the user is chocking up to high at the bending point and to dam tight of a patch.43 years of muzzleloading. Never broke a rod.
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