lock and trigger lube

[buffler]

Here's hoping this is fun:
You've just disassembled a sidelock and set trigger (not all the way, no pins removed) assembly and carefully cleaned away 150 plus years of gow and gunk. All parts are nice! . As this is is an historically unimportant gun, you're going to (carefully!) shoot the thing. You have your choice of the following to lube the parts as you reassemble:

Tri-Flow
Hoppes #9 Lubricating Oil
Rem-oil
Slip 2000 Gun Lube
Rem Dri-Lube
Rig 2
Tetra Gun
Break Free
TW 25 B

Which one do you use? Or is there something on your shelf and not on mine?

Thanks, and i hope this is an interesting thread!!! :stir:
Don

 

[Trench]

I've been using 3-in-1 oil.

 

[Many Klatch]

I use a mix of 50% 2 stroke motor oil and 50% kerosene. Cheap and long lasting. Great penetrating oil.

I have used it on a number of originals.

Many Klatch

 

[Rifleman1776]

Yes to all. You can't go wrong.
Currently, I use CLP Break Free.
I believe the Teflon build up is beneficial to smooth operation.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Sorry, none of the above


I use this for the obvious reasons in which its designed for, not many products out there will do the job better.

 

[Robby]

According to Jim Chambers, a great many problems with returned locks could be solved with lubrication, ANY lubrication!! He Recommends "Accrolube".
Robby

 

[rabjr]

Bear oil...

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

On the back it reads :

Prevents contact friction, galling and wear during engine assembly, initial start-up and break-in.

Use On :
Crankshafts, camshafts, gears, bearings, valve stems, lifters, pushrods and all areas of rotational sliding contact.

Hands down the best snake oil on the market.

The lock, triggers, and barrel are the heart of a fine shooting muzzleloader, no reason not to do the best you can for them.

here is some more information on this product.

 

[necchi]

Hoppes #9 Lubricating Oil
I've been using it for decades.

ANY oil needs to be used by someone that understands oil and lubrication and gun componants.

I have seen advice from Older Experianced Gents on this forum that obviously don't and never have had the capability too "git it".

*If a little lubrication works,,ALOT won't make it better.
*Too much oil can be applied
*Oil gets old in atmospheric conditions and looses it's desired properties.
*Old oil needs to be removed, adding more won't help.
*Ambiant Temp affects Viscosity

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

The MSDS sheet on Hoppes is interesting to say the least, sorry but I think I'll keep that stuff at a safe distance from my house.

Hoppe's Lubricating Oil MSDS Sheet
Assembly Lube MSDS sheet

 

[jamesthomas]

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: Thanks Swampy!!

 

[stormcrow]

I was just thinking about this last night as I applied a light coat of Ballistol to my lock components(Ballistol opinions?). Shouldn't whatever oil is used be listed safe for prolonged contact with wood, or in this case pressed tightly with the stock? I can only guess that some oils however well they work for metal parts will degrade the wood over time.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

About the only problem I see with Ballistol is the fact that it mixes with water instead of repelling it.

Makes ok sense for a patch lube, not so much for a protectant of metal.

According to the MSDS you could practicaly drink the stuff and be ok.

The thing is you don't want to mix base lubricants, (mix lubes) and this poses a problem for those that don't disassemble their locks when they clean them.

If you wash your flintlock and spray it with wd-40 to remove the water from the nooks and crannies, then you need to remove the wd-40 before you add the ballistol.

Its not gonna work to blow dry with a compressor because you cannot reach the internals of the tumbler hole, or inside the sear pivot hole.

I like a bit more protection than can be offered by a finite film of oil anyway.


Ballistol MSDS

 

[kbuck]

Was sperm oil used for lubricating locks?

 

[Stumpkiller]

Of your list I would use Rem-oil, sparingly.

 

[Billnpatti]

In my humble opinion, all are fine gun oils and any of them will work fine. Just use whichever of them you already have on your shelf.

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you finish the lock mortise with a good gun stock finish oil, you don't have to worry about lubricating oils penetrating the stock, NO? :hmm: :v

 

[hawkeye2]

Stormcrow, you are right. I have seen a number original gun stocks dammaged by too much oil or grease in the lock mortise. The damage was probably done by applying far too much oil rather than the type of oil though. I have painted the mortise of a couple of my guns with epoxy resin to seal them and not just from oil. I had a repro back in the 70s that was very closly inletted and moisture caused the wood to expand binding up the lock.

 

[Vaino]

On a set trigger, a couple of very small drops of 3 in 1 oil. All friction surfaces of a lock are lightly smeared w/ auto wheel bearing grease. Don't like oil because it runs off. The non-friction surfaces of the lock and all other steel parts are wiped w/ Oxyoke 1000. The lock inlet surfaces are always sealed....Fred

 

[Rifleman1776]

Was sperm oil used for lubricating locks?

Historically whale oil was indispensable for many uses, including lubrication of anything that moved. The WD-40 of it's day. Really wish it was still available.