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Hi Phil,
That was likely potassium ferrocyanide or "prussiate of potash". In the states, we had a compound called "Kasenit" that was also a cyanide containing powder used for case hardening. The problem with all of them is the case is very shallow unless heated for a long time. When I case harden parts in charcoal they are heat soaked at temps between 1375-1575 F (temperature depends on my objectives) for at least 90 minutes and sometimes up to 3 hours if I require a deeper, thicker case.

dave
 
Dave,
I also remember Kasenit, it was a grey powder, it could leave raised patches on the steel if not done right, if I remember, potash being better?

Phil
 
Dave
Looking at your lock photos I can see what you are describing now. When I get all the brass polished and cleaned up I will start on the lock. Maybe this weekend. I want to thank you for taking time from your busy schedule to explain things to us. Not many would take the time to post the many photos and write large paragraphs to explain the how and why. And your knowledge of history is awesome. I have always said I know enough to know that I don't know enough. All your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
 
Hi Shane,
Just put the plate, flintcock, and top jaw in the oven. You don't want to mess with the temper on any of the other parts. Shane, let me describe a few details on heat treating steel specific to locks that will help you understand the different processes. Steel is iron combined with carbon. The more carbon, the harder the steel can be made. Hardening is done by heating the steel to bright red or orange color and then quenching it immediately in some solution that could be water, brine (water and salt), or light oil (transmission oil, quenching oil, canola oil). The rapid cooling in a sense, polymerizes the steel into a hard material. That hard material is required to produce sparks and resist wear on moving parts that are also under stress like tumblers and sears, and to make springs. However, after hardening,the steel is brittle like glass. It must be tempered, which draws out some of that brittleness, to be useful for lock parts. Tempering happens when you heat the hardened steel to a temperature that does not soften it (well below the hardening temperature) but draws off some of the brittleness. The use of the part determines the tempering temperature. For a frizzen, you want it hard but not too hard so that a flint can cut it to produce sparks (sparks are shards of steel cut from the frizzen and heated to incendiary by the flint.) But you don't want the frizzen so hard that the shock of the flint hitting it breaks it like glass. So you temper the hardened frizzen to 375-400 degrees F. The internal parts undergo stresses and don't need to be as hard as the frizzen so they are tempered to blue (600 degrees F). Note, the higher the tempering temperature, the more hardness is softened and the less brittle and more tensile strength the part has. For example, a steel part tempered to 375 will cut into a steel part tempered at 600 degrees. A spring must be tempered to 650-750 degrees to prevent breakage. During the 18th century, steel was a very precious material. It could not be made in large quantity cheaply and was as valuable as silver. Not until the Bessemer process was invented during the 19th century was steel a cheap commodity. As a result, in times before the mid 19th century, locks were mostly made from wrought iron containing little or no carbon. They could never be hardened and made into working locks. The solution was to add carbon from charcoal or burnt leather in the case hardening process to the surface of the iron part, converting it to a skin or "case" of carbon steel that could be hardened. Today's lock parts are steel containing enough carbon to be hardened simply by heating to bright red and quenching. The commercial lock makers then temper the parts to their appropriate levels. In the case of your lock, my advice will allow you to color it with a bronze color but not affect the hardening and tempering of the parts done by the manufacturer. My advice is simply cosmetic and historically correct.

dave

Dave, after reading this thread I worked on polishing the lock parts and I’m going to do the lower temp bronzing. At 500 degrees do I still leave the frizzen out of it or is it safe to color that piece too? It’s a Chambers lock on a PA Fowler if that matters. Thank you for sharing your expertise. David
 
I have my first TRS kit on order and been looking at infrared thermometers. There seem to be more than enough choices in the $50 to $150 price range. Too may choices perhaps. If I know more later, I will come back and post.
 
I did the simple heat treat for color on my gas grill with the parts resting on a sheet of aluminum flashing. The screw and frizzen were not were not done, as per my interpretation of Dave’s instructions not to mess with the temper on these parts. If it’s ok to do them, I’ll bake them later. I used some rottenstone mixed with boiled linseed oil after the parts cooled a little bit. I’m hoping it’s correct, but I do like the color. Thanks to all of you for your help. Best, dc
 

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I didn't read this thread until after I had already browned my lock plate and hammer. I did use cold blue on the frizzen, hammer screw and jaw screw. Interior parts I left un finished but polished and oiled. I like it even though not strickly PC. It matches the other metal parts on the SMR
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Dave, thank you very much. That means a lot. My next move is to solder the front sight on so I can finish the barrel.

87TT, That’s pretty much what I did on my first and second. They were both CVA Mt Rifles. They aren’t historically correct, but got my hands busy learning a few things about building. Plus, it got black powder in my blood and freezers of venison. Very nice. Dc
 
Every time I polish a lock I'm glad I have an assortment of 4 inch sections of dowels 1/8 to 1/2 inch diameter. The other thing I find useful are popsicle sticks, which variously get whittled into points, chisels and blades. Finally, silicon carbide paper seems to be best.

Good light is necessary, as is patience.
 
I definitely agree on the patience aspect. I also glanced around the work bench for an appropriate shape and whittled a few sticks to fit a shape. I like the popsicle stick idea. I used a piece of yardstick quite a bit. Dc
 
I never polish the outside of my locks. After browning, rubbing the surface clean of any scale usually takes that textured finish down pretty well. When the browning process stops after about a week of being left with a coat of motor oil, a final rub down leaves the lock surfaces fairly smooth. Might not be the HC/PC way of doing things but it looks good to me.
 
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