lube advice

[dirtyhands]

I'm looking for a simple over the ball lube that will not get runny in this Fla heat. Prefer to go over the ball instead of wads. Thanks.

 

[gwalker]

I have used commercial lard and Crisco vegetable grease - both found in the cooking section of grocery stores. Both work great from the can/box here in Wyoming but if they get a little runny in Florida just melt and add a bit of bees wax.

 

[bpd303]

Stumpy's Moose Snot. (I use Jojoba oil in place of Castor oil) http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

 

[smoothshooter]

Why do you want to put grease in the chamber mouths? :stir:

 

[dirtyhands]

Just to keep the powder soft and the gun from possible binding as it gets dirty.

 

[gwalker]

In dry climates like in the west, the cylinder will begin to bind-up on the cylinder pin without some form of lubrication packed around the balls. When that does begin to happen in the absence of a lubrication, I usually apply some fish oil (cod liver oil) between the cylinder and frame to lubricate the cylinder pin and keep the fouling soft. Fish oil works well to do this at any ambient temperature, including remaining a liquid below sub zero temperatures.

 

[FishDFly]

Lubrication, as the ball jumps into the forcing cone.

 

[smoothshooter]

I have had very good luck with a mixture of approximately 1 part melted beeswax to 3 or 4 parts olive oil. By applying this mix generously on the cylinder pin, and sparingly where the rear of the cylinder rotates against the rear of the frame, I have gotten as many as 96 shots with no cleaning, and the cylinder still spun freely. Some days a few shots less, but not many. This was with Schutzen 3F and one eighth inch thick wads lubricated with the same lube seated under the balls. And all without the huge mess associated with having grease blasted all over the side of the frame after each shot when lube is applied over the chamber mouths.

 

[dirtyhands]

Many interesting procedures. I've seen your advice in other threads. Would be interested in what you might advise for a hot/humid climate? The more choices the merrier. LOL.

 

[azmntman]

Bookmarked, thank you!

 

[swathdiver]

:stir:
6 Parts Mutton Tallow
1 Parts Beeswax
1 Parts Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Chambers stay covered until the gun is empty.

P.S. Tallow is not Crisco, not even close.

 

[nkbj]

LOOB = Lanolin + Olive Oil + Beeswax...
and occasionally a little DAX pomade and crayola.

 

[curator]

I am here in S.W. Florida and do a fair amount of shooting after the snow-birds fly north. It gets pretty warm here most afternoons and I appreciate a C&B lube that is easy to work with and stays put. Mutton tallow, bear grease, lanolin, Crisco and lard all work fine at the right temperature. All but the last two are somewhat difficult to find locally. I can buy Lard (unsalted) and Crisco at the super market. I get my bee's wax at the craft fairs that occur just about every weekend December thru April hereabouts.

A 50/50 mixture melted in a double boiler of either Crisco or Lard (my preference)with bee's wax makes a perfect lube for C&B revolvers, Maxi and Minie' balls as well as the grease grooves on conical bullets that are going to be fired with black powder. The mixture does not get runny even in 98 degree days. It also doesn't get blown away when the adjacent chamber is fired.

 

[TS12]

I use a 40/40/10 mix of home rendered tallow, beeswax, and olive oil, mixed in a double boiler. It stays firm in the hottest weather we get in our area (100 degrees plus). In cool weather I just use crisco.