Lube? What's in it? AND Makingyour own.

I just received a couple bottles of LeHigh patch lube, and immediately discovered that a major ingredient is Pine Sol.
: So - want to make your own? Pine Sol is a very good place to start - mixed with something like Castor Oil - perhaps a bit of Murphy's oil soap, perhaps with heat, if necessary for the ingrediants to mix - perhaps not necessary?
: I'd never thought of Pine Sol - wish I had.
: BTW - Stumpy's Moose Snot does works very well in my guns. Perhaps a mixture with pine sol as in "Pine Snot". Sure smells nice.
: Moose Snot is a good BP barrel cleaner as well - perhaps better with Pine Sol.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Pine Sol! I knew it had a familiar aroma. But my wife doesn't buy Pine Sol so it was a 25 yr + old odor memory. I'm betting the pine oil has similar properties to the witch hazel I add to my moose milk. A volitile oil.

Run with it!

 

Bear grease with just enough beeswax to make it 'tacky'...multi purpose patch lube, leather grease, water-resistant, lock lube.....Cheap as hell, and it WORKS... :results:

 

[waksupi]

Bore Butter is olive oil and beeswax, with a bit of stinkumgoody in it.

 

[squirejohn]

Bear grease & beeswax, and when out of bear grease I substituted carnola oil; couldn't see much difference. In warm waether spit works as good as anything. Made up some of Stumpy's moose snot and moose milk. The moose milk seems to have the right consistency for winter shooting. At one of last winters biathlons the temp was -10F; some contestents tried using spit patches. Needless to say the ball came to a screeching halt half way down the barrel :redface:

 

[Griz]

Daryl, how did you discover that pine-sol was an ingredient? All of the bottles that I bought never had an ingredient label on them. I always wanted to know what the mixture was cause it works so well in my rifles.If you can come up with a complete list of ingredients I waould be very interested in having it. Thanks :redthumb:

 

I KNEW that I KNEW what the odour was, but couldn't remember. I then did what any red-blooded Canadian would do- I asked my wife what it was - her mom used to pine sol their house - I KNEW it was familiar - but that was 28 years ago.
: It's a bit thicker than straight Pine Sol, I think. It doesn't freeze like some of the other lubes, including Bear Grease and bore butter or lube 1000.
: I'm thinking something like adding straight Castor Oil, and maybe not very much.
: I agree with Stumpy - it's probably acting like soap &/or an emulsifier - like the Murphy's in his mix, although I think there's more Pine Sol in this ratio.
: The first thing to do is to try it straight - or - put some on a piece of steel, and see if it rusts over time. If rust, then add oil to the mix and re-try.- Just a thought.
: It stings in cuts, for certain. Even in one that's far from bleeding any more.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Here you go Daryl: it stings because pine oil is a rubefacient (not to mention the other chemicals in PineSol).

Pinesol MSDS

30% Pine Oil, 10% Tall Oil Acids (1) and Sodium Salt, 10% Isopropyl Alcohol and 50% Water

(1) Tall Oil Fatty Acid is a surficant (so is . . . castor oil!)

I did some research after your original post. ::

I came up with Moose Snot as a better solution for my needs than Bore Butter. If you can duplicate Lehigh Valley Lube I'll be forever in your debt (and I won't need to order anything "store bought" for my shooting . . . well, except Goex & Tom Fuller's flints).

"Daryl's Moose Testosterone" :thumbsup:

 

[Slowpoke]

I have a buddy that works at the National Institute of Health that can figure it out if need be. He's a big health nut and is always on me for chewing tobacco, so he broken down the compounds in a can of snuff and found fiberglass and formaldehyde. Told me I was swallowing glass and trying to embalm myself. He won't be able to tell me the proportions just the ingredients.
To be in Stumpkiller debt might just be worth it......

SP

 

[RussB]

......He's a big health nut and is always on me for chewing tobacco, so he broken down the compounds in a can of snuff and found fiberglass and formaldehyde........
SP

Slowpoke...Do ya reckon that's why me wife say's "you smell like an old dead fish!", when I been out in the woods, and have been chewing my Red Man?? :crackup: :crackup:

That's down right scarry!

Like many others, I've always thought I recognized the smell of Lehigh, but I could never put my finger on it.
Guess it's time to start "spearment'n" again.

Russ

 

[buckknife]

Well experyment is the best part when mixen up concoctions Ive been usen pine sol in my moose milks for a spell now instead of murphys.
I came up with a couple of brews that load easy an clean up good and are acurate.I think super flint has the right idea of using olive oil as the base lube.Its not tacky between your fingers.Pine sol isnt either like murphys.Olive oil has to be shook up in the brew before aplyen it to a patch.although i have a jug of brew i shook every day when i came home from work for a month or so and now it dont seperate any more for some reason.
Here is my version of cat whiz i call skunk whiz,

1 part olive oil
1 part pine sol
2 parts 91% alkey
2 parts witch hazel

another one i like is

1 part olive oil
1 part pine sol
10 parts 70% alkey

pine sol mixed in place of murphys oil soap with wso works good also,i like the olive oil brews better IMHO.
When i get the hankeren to make up a new type of moose milk i rub it between my finger an thumb for about a minuite.It sould remain slick almost till it starts drying,if it feels tacky or excessively oily it aint right fer me.The tack or oil will be left in the bore of the gun effecting accuracy sumwhat.I like to think of moose milk as a replacement for spit with just a hair more lube an perhaps a little soap for cleanen :redthumb:

 

[Griz]

What amount are you thinkin'? 1/2 and 1/2 pine-sol and castor oil? would you put anything else into the mix?
NOW your getting me excited, and thats really sad that patch lube excites me :shocking: :shocking:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I'm waiting for Daryl. If I were to go buy Pinesol and have THE ADMIRAL find out she'd want me to put it to use inside the house cleanin. Not this chile. Bad enough I've got Murphy's Oil bottles hidden here and there.

I want to see (or try) a rust test before I stick it in my bores. It could be that Lehigh Valley Oil uses pine oil and none of the other ingredients in Pinesol.

If I WERE to mix a test batch, I'd start with 8 oz. Pinesol, 8 oz. water and 8 oz. isopropyl alcohol(the 90% kind) to help drive out the water in the Pinesol as it evaporates). Based on the MSDS that gives just over 14% "oil" of the pine and "tall" combined, so I'd add one oz. of castor or olive oil to get it up to 18% and then tweak as necessary after some shooting tests. 20% oils is what seems to work well in my liquid lube & solvent mixtures (and model airplane fuel).

"Why add water at all?" you ask. The fats and soaps seem to need it to dissolve the fouling and the oils seep under the loose fouling better. Pure Murphy's sucks as a patch lube & solvent.

 

[Griz]

You are quite the chemist my friend. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
keep us updated on the rust test. thanks

 

[Stumpkiller]

My first year of college was in Chemical Engineering, with a minor in women and alcohol. I switched majors after crashing; and I don't mean car.

I should have kept it in and stuck it out. (You interpret that any way you like).

 

[Griz]

Obviously you have a big interest in chemistry, ever think about going back to school? My wife is really, really, really old and she just enrolled in the college where I work for this spring semester. Life is short. If that is what gets ya' goin', maybe you should give it a thought.
I have to ask this, so I appoligize to any one this may offend; How can you stick it out if you keep it in :crackup: :crackup: :nono: :nono:
I also appoligize for getting off the subject, I should know better than that and I really would like to homebrew lehigh valley for myself.

 

[Keith]

My wife is really, really, really old and she just enrolled in the college where I work for this spring semester. Life is short.

:crackup: She also isn't reading over your shoulder! :haha:
I see that salts are part of the ingredients in pinesol. Do you think that could be a problem? Maybe, there is a way to brew something similar without salts.
Sorry if that is a simple question unlike, Stumpy my knowledge of chemistry is limited to don't smoke around gasoline.

 

[LSU TIGER]

I use equal parts of bees wax, anhydros (?) lanolin, Murphey's Oil Soap, and lard. I finds it works well for BPC as well as patch lube.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I see that salts are part of the ingredients in pinesol. Do you think that could be a problem? Maybe, there is a way to brew something similar without salts.

Salt ain't good. But, if you're using tap water and burning black powder you have already introduced several salts to the bore. That's one of the reasons not to use chlorinated water, too. Potassium or Sodium (from the Saltpeter: 76% of blackpowder is potassium nitrate) with chlorine make . . . salt. Soaps also contain a lot of salt. That's why cleaning with water works so well. The water dissolves the salts instantly so they can be flushed away.

And I ain't goin back to no school. I've got three degrees now and I still don't know what I want to be when I grow up . . . except retired.

 

[RussB]

Griz..."My wife is really, really, really old"

SHAME ON YOU.

You meant to say your wife is actually really, really, really smart. Right?

Russ