Lyman cock problem

[StewartLeach]

On my advice, a HE instructor friend bought a Lyman flinter. He wanted a nice flinter, but without going the $1000 and up route.

Helping him get it ready, I noticed a problem with the cock and top jaw. The jaw is very short behind the screw hole, and does not even come close to the vertical face of the cock. The top jaw is so short it cannot bear on the ledge in the cock. The top jaw can turn about 35 degrees when tightening the jaw screw. Also, the ledge on the cock is so low a longer jaw will not bear on it except with the very thinnest flints. What this adds up to is very poor support for the flint. All the force will be borne by the screw. Eventually the screw will bend or break, and the threads in the lower jaw will be damaged.

Has anyone else seen a problem like this in a Lyman flinter?.

We have already e-mailed Lyman about the problem, but based on past experience expect them to respond in their own sweet time. I've had these thoughts as alternate fixes, and would truly welcome your comments.

Idea #1 is to build up the rear edge of the top jaw with a wire welder, then file dress to fit.

Idea #2 is to drill, saw and file a new top jaw out of quarter inch steel bar stock.

With either of these approaches we could create a rib across the bottom rear of the jaw that could bear on the ledge.

The "toss that $%@# thing and get an L&R RPL" approach won't work, for it is a left hand rifle. L&R RPLs are only available in right hand configuration.

Thanks in advance,

White Fox

 

[Jim Evans]

Why don't you get a complete T/C hammer and put it on.

 

[gearheart]

Track of the Wolf has left handed L&R locks. :thumbsup:

 

[StewartLeach]

Senior Chief:

I've had that thought, that we could make a tracing of the left hand Lyman lock, mark the critical l.ocations, and try matching it up with various locks pictured in the TOTW catalog. There would be some concerns with lock bolt placement, sear arm location, plate contour and cock configuration.

WF

 

[ebiggs1]

The problem with fixing or replacing the Lyman cock is it still won't be real good. They work but not well. I also doubt you are going to find a drop in replacement from L&R either. You could probably modify a TC cock to work and it has better geometry too. But if you use a right handed cock it will be inside out. :idunno:

 

[David W.]

White Fox, Have you contacted Lyman to see what they will do about it? Could be there is a problem with the mortise area, or something to that nature.

I don't own a Lyman, but other members who do, seem pretty satisfied with them.

 

[chichi]

Wire weld and file to shape. Not too difficult.

 

[tljack]

I just bought a Lyman Great Plains rifle. On my rifle the flint is hitting the frizzen about 1/2 way down. Seems to spark ok. The gun shoots very well but the trigger is terrible. It really takes some doing to pull the set trigger. After it is set, the front trigger is still pretty hard to pull. I have adjusted it to the max. Thinking about getting a different trigger. Guess I have gotten spoiled with custom guns

 

[reddog97]

The Davis Deerslayer trigger will take care of your trigger problem. I just installed one in my Great Plains .50 cal. flinter and it made a huge difference. I've only got to shoot it 15 times though because I picked up a custom .45cal flinter from a friend of mine last week who got it from me 25 years ago. I think I'm gonna sell the Great Plains.

 

[FPDoc]

Mount the flint bevel down, that will raise the place first struck on the frizzen. Ive been meaning to try that Davis Deerslayer trigger swap although the trigger on mine isn't too bad.