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I believe TOTW has a full length Hawken stock that will fit the Lyman GPR and can be cut to desired length. Also, not sure but Pecatonica River may have something as well. Worth checking I suppose.
 
Fish belly is where the bottom of the stock has a slight convex curve to it instead of straight or slightly convex hence the name fish belly. It looks like a fish belly.
 
Just an update the guys ; Pecatonica River doesn't have a replacement but they said if I sent my stock up there they could duplicate it . I am probably going to do it after the seasons are over down here . If anybody else is interested let me know. That would allow me to get a maple stock and adjust the lines to my liking. They are great guys to talk too and obviously great guys to work with. Let's support the guys that support us!

PS: The walnut on my Lyman is the worst piece of walnut I have ever seen on a gun. It has very open large grains and is stained to dark black/brown color. I think this was to cover up the quality of the wood. I'm not looking for a fancy stock just something that looks right on a gun. Just to be fair the gun functions well and for the price I think you get good value for the money particularly if you are just getting to the sport.

The Jambuster!!!!
 
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Although you didn't ask, in my opinion, you should sand off all of the old finish and remove the fish belly from the bottom of the stock.
Then, when your raising the grain to "whisker the wood", which is very necessary with walnut, look at the wood in a bright area while it is still wet. You might be more than a little surprised at what you see.

The walnut on these GPR's is often very well patterned and has some great colors. The maker is into mass production and doesn't really give a hoot about the nice walnut their stocks have so, they just paint on a stained varnish to get it out the door.

Give it a shot. Besides a little time, what do you have to lose?

Oh, by the way, ALL walnut is an "open grain wood". It all has exposed grain pores. Some people like them left open. Others like them filled.
You can buy a walnut grain filler made by Birchwood Casey or you can apply the first coat of finishing oil by using 220 grit sandpaper. The sandpaper will remove a little wood and the dust will mix with the finishing oil and fill the open grain, leaving a smooth finish.
 
GPR(s) I’ve completed from kits have had decent walnut stocks - lot of finish coats to get a smooth surface if that’s what you like
 

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Although you didn't ask, in my opinion, you should sand off all of the old finish and remove the fish belly from the bottom of the stock.
Then, when your raising the grain to "whisker the wood", which is very necessary with walnut, look at the wood in a bright area while it is still wet. You might be more than a little surprised at what you see.

The walnut on these GPR's is often very well patterned and has some great colors. The maker is into mass production and doesn't really give a hoot about the nice walnut their stocks have so, they just paint on a stained varnish to get it out the door.

Give it a shot. Besides a little time, what do you have to lose?

Oh, by the way, ALL walnut is an "open grain wood". It all has exposed grain pores. Some people like them left open. Others like them filled.
You can buy a walnut grain filler made by Birchwood Casey or you can apply the first coat of finishing oil by using 220 grit sandpaper. The sandpaper will remove a little wood and the dust will mix with the finishing oil and fill the open grain, leaving a smooth finish.
I think I will try this with my GPR.
 
Although you didn't ask, in my opinion, you should sand off all of the old finish and remove the fish belly from the bottom of the stock.
Then, when your raising the grain to "whisker the wood", which is very necessary with walnut, look at the wood in a bright area while it is still wet. You might be more than a little surprised at what you see.

The walnut on these GPR's is often very well patterned and has some great colors. The maker is into mass production and doesn't really give a hoot about the nice walnut their stocks have so, they just paint on a stained varnish to get it out the door.

Give it a shot. Besides a little time, what do you have to lose?

Oh, by the way, ALL walnut is an "open grain wood". It all has exposed grain pores. Some people like them left open. Others like them filled.
You can buy a walnut grain filler made by Birchwood Casey or you can apply the first coat of finishing oil by using 220 grit sandpaper. The sandpaper will remove a little wood and the dust will mix with the finishing oil and fill the open grain, leaving a smooth finish.

I think I'll eventually try this on my new GPR as well. I posted a thread recently asking for advice on finishing it, and just a few coats of Tru-Oil made an incredible difference on the otherwise very uninteresting factory stain. I'm relatively new at this, so I decided to just take it that far this time, but eventually I'll want to whisker the wood. I suspect there's some really pretty wood just waiting to be invited out.
 
It must be a crap shoot for the wood on a GPR. I have very nice figured wood on my GPR. I have received several comments on how nice the wood looks. I think that my Plains Pistol is equally good.
 
I don't own one anymore. The one I had, kit, came to me with the worst wood. I don't even think it was walnut. Looked like, well, you know.
I complained and sent the box back to DGW. Asked them to open a few boxed kits and send me something better. They did.
Bravo to DGW!
Moral is, even if you sand off the factory finish on a finished gun, what goes into production may not ever meet your standards for a nice stock.
 
Although you didn't ask, in my opinion...
I'm glad you contributed this idea Zonie.

I own a Lyman GPR flint, and my stock is pretty hum-drum too. It is my "entry drug" into the ML world, like many of us here. I plan on saving up to commission a true craftsman to make a fine rifle for me, but this is what I have now, and it gets me to the range and into the woods. It has put venison in my freezer too, though not this season yet!

I admit though, that the stock is nothing to look at--pure function and no glitz. It's an accurate shooter, and reliable to fire, but nothing to write home about in the looks department. Maybe I'll strip her down after hunting season is over and work on improving the stock a little.

Since that's not officially part of this thread, I'm going to create another thread to request photos of Lyman GPR stocks that have been refinished. Forum rules prohibit us from posting the same thing in two different sub-forums, but if it did, I'd post in the Gunbuilders and the General sub-forums. While this isn't officially gun building, I think I'll post my inquiry there, since the guys who frequent that thread know this stuff, and anyone who has refinished their GPR probably visits that thread occasionally too.
 
Speaking of Lyman GPR stocks and refinishing them, someone who owned my GPR refinished the stock and installed a blond piece of wood in the shape of a diamond on the left side.
I can just imagine his surprise when he removed the old factory finish and discovered that this piece of walnut is curly.
No. He did not paint the stripes or do anything odd to make them. They are natural and like other curly woods, the stripes come and go depending on how the light is hitting them.

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Got two of 'em. And never get around to refinishing them. And got the .46 rebore Shenandoah flinter that I want to got around to this winter as well.
 
I think I'll eventually try this on my new GPR as well. I posted a thread recently asking for advice on finishing it, and just a few coats of Tru-Oil made an incredible difference on the otherwise very uninteresting factory stain. I'm relatively new at this, so I decided to just take it that far this time, but eventually I'll want to whisker the wood. I suspect there's some really pretty wood just waiting to be invited out.
A gunsmith told me about this and it works. Make the first coat of Tru Oil mixed with genuine spirits of turpentine 50:50. Apply and let it cure for a day or two, then continue the tru oil finish.The turpentine soaks the tru oil down into the wood which makes the finisha lot more durable. I have an unmentionable that went on a very rough hunt and cam out looking good.
It is worth th effort
Bunk
 

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