Hello all,just ordered a lyman gpr flintlock kit and need some info.I have a inline and just use the pyro pellets so all this is new to me.The barrell has a 1 in 60 twist,it is a 50 cal.What black powder would be the best to use and what patches and round ball? Any other accessories i may need to get started .Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Brandon
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
lyman gpr
- Thread starter luvv2hunt
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
flaming canvas
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2004
- Messages
- 644
- Reaction score
- 0
I would reccomend 2f for the main charge and prime with 4f. :imo: (I'm sure that you will get other opinions on this.)
For starters get both 490 and 495 ball and .015 and .018 cloth for patching. Pillow ticking comes in both thicknesses. If the stripes look like they were painted on one side, its probably .015. If the stripes are dark on both sides its the .018. You can find the material at Wally World or any fabric shop. Be sure it does not have any synthetic stuff in it.
Round ball takes a little tinkering to find the sweet combo for best accuracy. Different patch lubes will affect accuracy as well.
For starters get both 490 and 495 ball and .015 and .018 cloth for patching. Pillow ticking comes in both thicknesses. If the stripes look like they were painted on one side, its probably .015. If the stripes are dark on both sides its the .018. You can find the material at Wally World or any fabric shop. Be sure it does not have any synthetic stuff in it.
Round ball takes a little tinkering to find the sweet combo for best accuracy. Different patch lubes will affect accuracy as well.
I would recommend that you start out loading and priming with 3F for a .50 cal. If you can't get acceptable performance from that you can always change to a 2F main charge and prime with 4F. That way to start with you'll only have one powder to worry about.
As far as the roundballs the advice you've already gotten is as good as you're gonna get. Different guns perform differently regarding ball size and patch thickness; you'll just have to experiment to see which works best in your gun.
If you do a search of this forum you'll turn up a lot of advice on shooting flintlocks and there's probably not a lot more that needs to be added to what's already been posted. Of course you can always ask any questions you have as they arise and the members here will gladly answer them.
As far as the roundballs the advice you've already gotten is as good as you're gonna get. Different guns perform differently regarding ball size and patch thickness; you'll just have to experiment to see which works best in your gun.
If you do a search of this forum you'll turn up a lot of advice on shooting flintlocks and there's probably not a lot more that needs to be added to what's already been posted. Of course you can always ask any questions you have as they arise and the members here will gladly answer them.
Since you're just starting out lets keep it simple. Get a pound of Goex 3f and some .490 roundball. Patches can be bought in bulk or pre cut, the choice is yours. Also order yourself some Black English Flints in 3/4 size. If you feel the ball loads too easy or get your hands on some .495 ball you can try them with your rifle and they might give you tighter groups...
Use the 3f as your main charge and your priming charge. It should work just fine. If your going to place a large powder order it might pay to get one pound of Goex 4f and use that as priming although the 3f will do fine.
That is a great rifle you ordered. You're going to have a lot of fun putting it together and then later shooting it.. A great roundball rifle without a doubt.
Use the 3f as your main charge and your priming charge. It should work just fine. If your going to place a large powder order it might pay to get one pound of Goex 4f and use that as priming although the 3f will do fine.
That is a great rifle you ordered. You're going to have a lot of fun putting it together and then later shooting it.. A great roundball rifle without a doubt.
Good advice, so far. The neat thing is, while some say 2F/4F charge/pan, and some say 3F/3F, they're both right. I have a Lyman Trade Gun, not a kit, in flintlock,50 cal. and 60 gr. 3F for the charge and 3F in the pan works great. Wipe with damp patch and a dry one between shots if you want. I don't know if the GPR has the breech plug that has a hollow narrower than the bore like my Lyman trade rifle does. If so, you have to put an undersized brush on the cleaning rod and get the crud out of there as you will be pushing it down in there with wiping.
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2004
- Messages
- 2,703
- Reaction score
- 2
The GPR does have the narrower brrech and you need a smaller brush to get into that area. The owners manual states brush size (forget what it said) but I've been using a .270 brush with a patch on it to clean the breech.
I shoot a GPR flinter in .50cal. .490 rbs with a .018 pillow ticking over 50grs of 3fg for main charge and 3fg also for prime. This is my target load :thumbsup:
No problem. I think you're going to find that you've just stepped into a whole new dimension in muzzleloading, and you're gonna like it. Stick with it and remember if you need any good advice beyond what your owners' manual tells you, post your questions here.
Oh, and about that owners manual: there are two differnt Lyman owners manuals that I've seen. One is yellow, and the other is white. If the yellow Lyman owners manual comes with your gun, do whatever you can to get a copy of the white one and go by it. The yellow one will work until you get the white one, but I think the white manual is a heck of a lot better, and the load data and info on powder is a lot more current.
Oh, and about that owners manual: there are two differnt Lyman owners manuals that I've seen. One is yellow, and the other is white. If the yellow Lyman owners manual comes with your gun, do whatever you can to get a copy of the white one and go by it. The yellow one will work until you get the white one, but I think the white manual is a heck of a lot better, and the load data and info on powder is a lot more current.
Similar threads
