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Lyman Plains pistol

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mazo kid

70 Cal.
Joined
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I recently acquired a used/excellent .54 Plains pistol from a member here (thanks Joe!). The lock action seemed a little "gritty" so I took it off and polished off those little casting gates that were left and while I was at it, cut a couple coils (a little at a time) off the sear spring. Lubed everything back up and it is now very smooth, the sear is still positive but the trigger pull is a bit lighter. However, I did notice a small inlet and pin hole in the tumbler that looked like it was for a fly. The pistol has a simple trigger and doesn't need the fly; so my question is....Is this lock the same as used on the GPR with double set triggers, and did my lock originally have a fly? Thanks. Emery
 
Hmmmmm.....68 views and no one can tell me if the Lyman Plains pistol comes with a fly in the tumbler?
 
alot of the gpr lock parts are interchangable, but the overall plate is smaller as are a few of the internals. the hammer is interchangable hence the fly cut out. I've been wondering for awhile if I could make a flinter out of it but after cutting and pasteing I'd have the cost of a semicustom flint kit. I think a Lyman purpose built flinter plains pistol would be awesome, but that request had been pleasantly logged and file 13'd before
 
Thanks for the reply. Yep, A flinter would be great!! Kinda had that in mind, but as you say, it's on the back burner for now.
 
My great plains pistol has a trigger weight of just over 2 pounds but, as you said, it is gritty. The sear engages the tumbler for the full height of the sear. I am thinking about either polishing both the sear and the tumbler to smooth them out and living with the long trigger pull or shimming the tumbler to reduce the amount of engagement. Since you have disassembled your lock, do you think these would work?

BTW my GPP has a fly.
 
Plinker, I have not done anything to the sear as my trigger does not have a long pull. Yes, the full cock notch is filled with the sear but that is only , maybe, 1/16" of an inch. You can polish the full cock notch and sear nose (VERY carefully), but other than that, I won't do anything more. I suppose you could soft solder a thin shim onto the notch, but then I would be extra careful to see that the hammer stays SAFELY cocked. Good luck.
 
Polishing sear and trigger carefully helps.I used a file on the sear and laid the trigger flat on a surface and rubbed it on the side of a stone. The spring was replaced with one from Grainger(1ncd5)
along with a spacer aprox. 3/8" and a washer.This resulted in a pull just less than 2# and smoother than stock.
Stew
 
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