• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Mag-spark

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

180pilot

32 Cal.
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
All my attempts to find Musket caps for sale have led nowhere. I have ordered a 1/4" x 28 Mag-Spark, that fires 209 primers, to fit my TC .50 Black Mountain Magnum. I'm reading that it will ignite Blackhorn 209 powder without problems. My only concern is the heavier hammer spring that seems to be used in this rifle vs. a percussion cap Hawken, of which I have two.
The increased spring pressure on the hammer for the musket cap is very evident. Any experts here that know if I'm correct? If so, I plan to put a spring for a Hawken in it as to reduce any peening of hammer on the firing pin of the Mag-Spark or the hammer face. I also like the idea of the 209 powder, less hydroscopic and cleaner.
 
I have a MagSpark or some such for 209's in a drawer somewhere around here. Got it on a TC Hawken I picked up in a trade once upon a time. Since it came with a partial box of 209's, I went ahead and experimented with it until the primers were gone.

Never had a single issue with the 209's failing to fire, or failure to ignite whatever powder I dumped down the bore.

But it's in a drawer because it was a royal PITA to use. Man, oh man. I kept it rather than tossing in the garbage because there could be a day when I can't get caps. But I'll rue that day big time.
 
It is not an inline. It was a magnum sidelock made for 150 grain loads or 3 pellets. Was it a pain because of having to unscrew to load new primer? And did you notice any peening of the firing pin or hammer face?
 
180pilot said:
It is not an inline. It was a magnum sidelock made for 150 grain loads or 3 pellets.

Thanks. I went to googling for a better look and saw my mistake, then deleted that sentence.

If you're using pellets, they'll need all the ignition help they can get.
 
A bud of mine has played a lot with loose Blackhorn powder. He found an easier solution for ignition than either musket caps or shotgun primers. He keeps his flintlock primer handy and drops 6 grains of 4f Goex down the tube before adding the Blackhorn. Ultrafast ignition while using regular #11 caps.
 
Not to mention NSA crawling all over you for BP purchases....None for sale around here and online purchase=$$$$$$$$$
 
Thanks for info, looks like Mag-Spark will work fine for my use.. Heavier spring may give faster lock time if it does not cause damage to firing pin or hammer. Have to watch it, and have ordered extra firing pin and top for Mag-Spark and an extra Hawken spring from TOTW. Firing pin indenting primer may slow hammer down gradually without damage, compared to flat whack stop on musket cap??

BTW percussion caps not for sale anywhere either.....
 
I've used one of those units on my 1970's vintage 50 cal T/C Hawken.
I've fired approx. 200 shots with it so far with loose Goex. The only (very slight)issue of any kind I've noticed is that occasionally the spent shotgun primer wants to hang up and be a little difficult to remove.
Here's the story if you want to know:
I ordered one when percussion caps got real hard to find...especially my personal favorites, the Dynamit Nobel 1075 plus.
As a former competitive ATA Trap shooter....I am sitting on 3-4,000 Winchester 209 shotgun primers. It seemed like a good idea to find a way to use those up. Disclaimer: the manufacturer of Mag-Spark advises that some primers...the Win 209 being one of them, are not recommended since they can be difficult to remove after firing.
I've not found that to be a huge problem and I'm perfectly satisfied with the product.
I have not benched the rifle to see if switching between caps and 209's is changing my P.O.I. but I can't see any difference offhand. The old Hawken still shoots right where I point her. Now... if I could only point her at the center of the bull now and then:idunno: :redface:
 
Last summer picked up one each for the Sheba gun (.40 modified GPR) and for Navarone (finally settled on a .52 x 38") for foul weather / no mis- or hang-fire.
But I haven't had time to try them out.
 
Haven't tryed one ---yet. Son shoots loose Blackthorn in his .54 fast twist rifle. And it needs 10 gr 3fg underneath it. VERY clean burning powder...Tom
 
I feel your pain. Any cap other than a #11 is very difficult to find these days. Even the #11 caps can be hard to find sometimes. Because I have a large supply of 209 primers left from when I used to reload my own shotshells, I purchased one of the dohickies that replaces a regular nipple and allows you to use 209 primers on your caplock rifle. The darned thing works just fine but is a pain in the butt to mess with. Still, it allows me to use the more available 209 primers when I am having trouble finding #11's.
 
I have used a Mag-Spark for years in my sidelock. I use BH209 in it and it ALWAYS goes bang with no delay. The downsides are difficulty in removing a primer quickly from a Mag-Spark that has had a few shots without cleaning (I use a pocket knife blade) and a delay in unscrewing the top, removing the primer, replacing it, and re-screwing the cap.

These downsides are not enough to cause me to switch as BH209 allows me to clean the gun when I get time not immediately like I have to do with black powder.

Mr. Hubbard puts out a very good product. :thumbsup:
 
I've used magspark on my traditions hawken with no problem with ignions. But like some here said sometimes the 209 primer gets stuck.
 
Patocazador said:
The downsides are difficulty in removing a primer quickly from a Mag-Spark that has had a few shots without cleaning (I use a pocket knife blade) and a delay in unscrewing the top, removing the primer, replacing it, and re-screwing the cap.

Try it with gloves on, then drop the top in a foot of snow. Turns a downside into a total flop!!! :rotf:
 
Butter-fingers! :grin:

Actually, I have dropped the cap on mine out of a tree stand but managed to find it at the bottom of the tree.
 
I can see that that would be a problem. Perhaps I should suggest to them that they include in the instructions an admonishment that the user should not drop the top. Especially not in deep snow, deep weeds, water, etc. :grin:
 
Back
Top