Many misfires first time shooting

[Andrewmtnman]

Well, if trying a larger and sharp flint bevel up / bevel down doesn't work my experience with L&R locks is that I need to send them to Brad Emig for a tune up. Then they spark fine. Someone mentioned TC but from what I have seen of the gun it is not a TC. Am I correct?

No it’s not. It was built by JP gunstock, McCoy

 

[biliff]

Based on the pictures your flint is dull and worn out (rounded front edge and short). Based on your comments, it's most likely the flint that came with the gun so it more than likely is dull and worn out.

Before you do anything else, get some new flints and try them.

As stated TOTW has flints (they're limiting purchases to 12 at a time). Measure the width of your frizzen, that will be the maximum flint width. At half ****, measure from the front of the **** screw along the bottom jaw to the face of the frizzen. That will be your maximum flint length. As EC121 said it's probably going to be 5/8"X3/4" or 3/4X7/8".

 

[Tasbay]

When you state misfire: 1,Did the **** strike the frizzen and nothing happened?. 2. did you get a flash in the pan and the main charge did not go off?
As others have said looking at the photos the flint looks like it could do with a sharpen or replace.
Youtube Black Powder maniac shooter has a video on sharpening a flint. Mark is on this forum.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

I realized I had another flint. It and the frizzen is 5/8” wide. Does this look better? Adjusted ok? How tight do you go with the screw? I went fairly tight to where I don’t think it will move when fired

 

[Andrewmtnman]

When you state misfire: 1,Did the **** strike the frizzen and nothing happened?. 2. did you get a flash in the pan and the main charge did not go off?
As others have said looking at the photos the flint looks like it could do with a sharpen or replace.
Youtube Black Powder maniac shooter has a video on sharpening a flint. Mark is on this forum.

No flash. Powder in pan was not ignited

 

[Andrewmtnman]

Based on the pictures your flint is dull and worn out (rounded front edge and short). Based on your comments, it's most likely the flint that came with the gun so it more than likely is dull and worn out.

Before you do anything else, get some new flints and try them.

As stated TOTW has flints (they're limiting purchases to 12 at a time). Measure the width of your frizzen, that will be the maximum flint width. At half ****, measure from the front of the **** screw along the bottom jaw to the face of the frizzen. That will be your maximum flint length. As EC121 said it's probably going to be 5/8"X3/4" or 3/4X7/8".

Ok, measures around 7/8” to the frizzen along bottom jaw

 

[deerstalkert]

if you are sure the gun is unloaded, point it in a safe direction and dry fire the lock to see if it produces spark.
if the flint and leather cannot be moved side to side you are tight enough. for optimum action that edge needs to ride evenly down the face of the frizzen.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

if you are sure the gun is unloaded, point it in a safe direction and dry fire the lock to see if it produces spark.
if the flint and leather cannot be moved side to side you are tight enough. for optimum action that edge needs to ride evenly down the face of the frizzen.

That was my next question, wasn’t sure if that would be ok

 

[deerstalkert]

no different than firing it loaded. you can even put priming in the pan to see if it ignites.
best not to do it in the living room if the wife is home though. don't ask.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

no different than firing it loaded. you can even put priming in the pan to see if it ignites.
best not to do it in the living room if the wife is home though. don't ask.

Oh no!!! Lmao

 

[waksupi]

Get a breech scraper. Fouled breech is the most common cause of misfire. If it was a used gun, someone may not have kept it clear. When you pour in the powder, slap the side of the stock, or bounce it lightly on the ground a couple times to settle the powder out to the vent. Make sure you don't over prime. That can a cause the prime flash to be above the vent.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

Get a breech scraper. Fouled breech is the most common cause of misfire. If it was a used gun, someone may not have kept it clear. When you pour in the powder, slap the side of the stock, or bounce it lightly on the ground a couple times to settle the powder out to the vent. Make sure you don't over prime. That can a cause the prime flash to be above the vent.

Ok. I do have a scraper and will do that when I clean it tonight. I did notice that the main charge was visible through the flash hole

 

[nchawkeye]

You have to get the pan powder to ignite first...Also, with the lock at half ****, I usually adjust the flint so it is not quite touching the frizzen, and adjust left and right so it lines up left and right...The flint should hit the frizzen about 2/3 of the way up and in some locks you can even flip the flint over to sharpen itself after a few shots...

You could even take the lock off, put a bit of powder in the pan and see if it ignites...Children love this when I give talks...

 

[Grenadier1758]

I call a tool like this one, a knapping awl:
Knapping hammer | The Muzzleloading Forum Thank you @Bearkiller.

One can be made from a 16d (penny) nail. Grind the tip flat. File away half of the tip to make a step notch. Rest the notch on the edge of the flint. Tap on the head of the nail and you will chip off a tiny flake of flint. The nail is soft steel and will not generate a spark. If you are worried, you can make one from a similar sized brass rod.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

So when you are doing this procedure, is the flint in the jaw of the lock?

 

[Grenadier1758]

I use my knapping awl with the lock at half ****.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

I use my knapping awl with the lock at half ****.

so would one use a knapping hammer while the flint is in the lock or is that done with the flint in hand?

 

[olskool]

when i put my flint in the jaws i leave it loose, i **** it with the frizzen closed on the pan, then i hold the ****/jaws and let it down slow on the frizzen so the flint lays even across the frizzen so it is ridding square across and down the face of the frizzen to get max. contact, then i lock the screw down. your problem is the flint, it was "shot" long ago,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Grenadier1758]

so would one use a knapping hammer while the flint is in the lock or is that done with the flint in hand?

The flint needs to be held securely. I use the knapping hammer to tap the knapping awl with the flint held in the lock. You could wrap the flint in the leather and hold it in a vise grip to dress the edge with a pressure flaking tool like a deer antler tine or a copper rod.

 

[French Colonial]

It does not have to be extremely sharp to spark... But after knapping with a knapping hammer or the back edge of a knife the flint will be sharp enough to cut you easily.