Matchlock barrels

[Kentuckyjed]

I just noticed your post most any barrel will work depends on what design Time period & country your after . Outside of rough military outlines like' barrel fower foot with a bore of 10 standing 12 rowling' ' Or" Of indiferrent bore under Arquebuss' techical stuff like that &' Whole plated at ye butt with Iron ' the brl you have would suit a 'caliver ' or a' birding peece' most any gun that will' go off' might lend its self to your barrel'& welcome to the Brother hood of the burning string.
Regards Rudyard

I am leaning hard on the caliver with fishtail butt not sure what time period that would exactly be, I am poorly versed in matchlock anything and just recently really started looking at them and admiring their simple but effectiveness in the field. I pretty much have the barrel ready and made the pan and cover, just have to drill touch hole and attach/solder pan on barrel. I know that with a flintlock I have the barrel bedded in the stock and the lock mortise cut before marking and drilling the touch hole, Is this the same way a matchlock would be done or could I adjust the stock to the barrel with pan and touch hole already in place? I have not made my trigger and "serpent" lock mechanism yet. Forgive my ignorance on nomenclature.

 

[Rudyard]

I shoot a 44cal Dutch Style Marchlock made by Maurice Taylor - it's a snapping lock. It's a real buzz to shoot - I recommend looking at 'Civilian' Styles rather than the military because it allows a smaller bore. Smoothbores need to be driven quickly to get real accuracy and doing that in .70cal can be a bit punishing.
My load for the 44 is 90 - 120gr of FFFg a substantial wad column and a patched 430 ball. Be surprized by the ignition they're super fast.

Oh him that Bozo (whatever that is )I've heard of him ,Eyes too close together ,dodgy sort some say .But he gives a guarantee that his barrels wont burst more than once. And gives a three hundred year warranty viz if the buyers gun should fail they must bring them back in three hundred years & he will fix it free . Hmmm told you he was dodgy if these reports are true. Never met the bounder so cant verify these accounts .
Regards Rudyard

 

[TobJohn]

I am leaning hard on the caliver with fishtail butt not sure what time period that would exactly be, I am poorly versed in matchlock anything and just recently really started looking at them and admiring their simple but effectiveness in the field. I pretty much have the barrel ready and made the pan and cover, just have to drill touch hole and attach/solder pan on barrel. I know that with a flintlock I have the barrel bedded in the stock and the lock mortise cut before marking and drilling the touch hole, Is this the same way a matchlock would be done or could I adjust the stock to the barrel with pan and touch hole already in place? I have not made my trigger and "serpent" lock mechanism yet. Forgive my ignorance on nomenclature.

A fishtail caliver would be most appropriate for 1590s(not totally sure on the early dates)-1610, but then continued to be used through the 30 years, particularly in German lands, where everything that could shoot would be pressed into service.

According to the Osprey book on the imperial army of the 30 years war, calivers were often given to skirmishers.

The De Gheyn manual shows one in 1608, but the Dutch abolished their use soon after.

The Spanish continued to officially use “arquebuses” in their tercios during the 30 years war, so those were probably calivers.

Many petronel calivers from the 3rd quarter of the 16th century were restocked with “modern” stocks during the start of the 17th century.

 

[Rudyard]

I am leaning hard on the caliver with fishtail butt not sure what time period that would exactly be, I am poorly versed in matchlock anything and just recently really started looking at them and admiring their simple but effectiveness in the field. I pretty much have the barrel ready and made the pan and cover, just have to drill touch hole and attach/solder pan on barrel. I know that with a flintlock I have the barrel bedded in the stock and the lock mortise cut before marking and drilling the touch hole, Is this the same way a matchlock would be done or could I adjust the stock to the barrel with pan and touch hole already in place? I have not made my trigger and "serpent" lock mechanism yet. Forgive my ignorance on nomenclature.

Don't worry over nomenclature they used very wonderous descriptions a joy to read stuff like" whitch is the hight of the bore & not the Pece ' &" Doth murther more be it far or nere & better cheep." so long as your vent is in front of the plug when you drill the vent dosnt matter Your Caliver / birding' pece' will be just fine . I made my first one with a 12 bore barrel in 1975 its still serviceable only followed the example in Torsden Lenks' The Flint lock its origin & development' where he shows a M lock gun' Western Europe circa 1640 or 30 ' in essence little different to a modern shot gun , We used it at shows to shoot clays even driven straight up shots and let visitors have a go . I say ' my first one' (What School boys will do with copper pipe horrers & penny bangers ) are best discounted .
Regards Rudyard

 

[Sidney Smith]

My matchlock is bored .775.....