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Maxi-Ball or Minie or R.E.A.L.?

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Big Bubba Daddy said:
paulvallandigham,

I can tell you what I want, and that is to learn as much as I can about shooting my flintlock, part of that process for me is asking questions, as well as exploring and trying every option available.

So if you take a another look at my first post you will see I have already ordered a double roundball mold, so everyone calm down a bit, round balls of lead will be flying I promise :wink: :doh:

Sounds like we're cut out of similar moulds. I've got to try things for myself and make up my own mind. And the more people criticize me for it, the more they show of themselves. That's useful info, too.

I'm guessing that based on your stalking experience (and probably your tastes) with traditional archery, you'll be plenty happy with round balls at the distances you prefer to hunt. That's where I came into preferring RBs for my own hunting. But I shot a heck of a bunch of conicals in getting there. It didn't spoil my gun to shoot them, but once I shot a couple of deer with RBs I was convinced of their abilities at my hunting distances. Since then I just never seem to shoot many conicals.

Doesn't mean I won't do it if circumstances call for me to start shooting further or taking on bigger game more often.
 
I have the traditions .50 Hawkin amd experimented with some conicals at first. Found most were pretty hard to start and did not get great accuracy. I got some (if I remember correctly) 240 grain 2 banded maxi balls that are about 2/3 the length of the typical .50 cal. maxi. They load easy enough and group well out to 100 yards.
 
Thanks for your reply.

I took her to the range yesterday for the fist time and had a ball (no pun intended). The sights were set way low but once I adjusted I was punching holes touching each other which surprised the heck out of me, course I was using a rest and only shooting 25 yards :wink:

She shot .490 well with a thick patch, but really seemed to like .495 with a thinner patch better. Put 50g of 4f behind both.
 
Big Bubba Daddy said:
Put 50g of 4f behind both.

Boy, I sure hope that's a typo. 4f isn't designed to be used as a main charge, and 50 grains of it would be a whole bunch too much I bet.

I hope you meant 3f!!!!!! :shocked2:
 
Well, seeings as you have the 1/48, you should be able to shoot all the conicals you mentioned...but; the minnie is not a good choice if you plan to shoot warm loads cause the skirt opens up sorta like a badminton bird. My opinions on the Maxi are all my own so don't take em as fact, but I found that they were very slow to kill on deer and elk. My conclusion was the pointy nose did not make a decent wound channel. REAL bullets did not shoot accurately for me but am thinking the pointy nose might get the same results as the maxi.

Brown Bear steered you right with the Lyman Great Plains bullet. Good size and weight for the 1/48 and a flat nose for a good wound channel.

Course there's always the roun.... Oops, sorry, you have already gotten the *none of the above* answer! :haha:
 
With that light load of 50 grains of 3Fg powder, a .50 Cal. rifle will generally shoot better groups using the .495 ball, and a .010" patch. However, if she raises that powder charge just 10 grains, a .490 ball with a .015" patch will begin to show better groups.

I think it has to do with how quickly the ball upsets in the barrel, and the higher powder charge and pressure that result using the 60 grain charge behind a .490 ball and the thicker patch seems to get the job done, where reducing the charge to 50 grains produces inconsistent results.

I started at 50 grains with .010" patches, and both .490 and .495 balls when I first got my new rifle, because I had been shooting 3Fg powder in my .45. When I was satisfied with the results I was getting shooting groups off the bench at 50 yards with both balls and that powder charge, I first changed patches, then increased powder charges by 5 grain increments, and finally, changed powders to using FFg in my particular gun.

Only recently I began experimenting with using OP wads and POI at 50 yards is a bit more than an inch higher on the target than without the OP wad. So, I may be able to reduce my load back some.
 
paulvallandigham said:
Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but name calling doesn't get much information shared.

The Reason so much stress is placed on shooting the PRB is because TRADITIONAL rifles, and smoothies are basically 100 yard, and shorter distance HUNTING firearms. They come with open sights, and that makes it difficult for all but the very best shooters to shoot tight groups at ranges much over 100 yards. The number of clubs and public ranges where a shooter can practice shooting at longer ranges is limited, here in the Lower 48 states. The Further East you go, the more limited those opportunities are.

For hunting most game at 100 yards and less, the PRB is perfectly designed to kill. At the low velocities the ball is traveling, even at 100 yds., it still expands on hitting flesh and bones.

I don't know anyone here who objects to anyone using Conicals, if YOUR GUN IS DESIGNED TO SHOOT THEM! BrownBear lives on Kodiak Island, in the Pacific Ocean, miles from land, by any means. There are reportedly more bear living on the island than there are people! It would be NUTS for someone in his position to not regularly arm himself with a ML rifle that is designed for, and he shoots conicals in it as a matter of course. Most of us don't live in country where the majority of wildlife think of us as " lunch ", rather than a predator to be feared. :rotf: :nono:

There are large bore guns that will kill bears quite well with large Round Balls, but I don't know many hunters insane enough to want to try it, without someone backing them up with a large caliber rifle shooting conicals, too.

There is room on this forum for both groups. What we traditionalist, RB advocates are constantly confronting, however, is the sales HYPE of the Dark Side of the ML industry, telling new shooters that a conical in a plastic shoe fired at Gee Whiz Velocity out of a gun with a modern Scope on it, will let them kill deer as far as a deer can be seen. Frankly, we have enough problems with Yahoos roaming the woods every fall, shooting at anything that makes a noise, or moves, without irresponsible manufacturers telling guys they can stay out a few more days during the " Muzzle Loading Season ", by buying their new Wonder Zip Gun, use shotgun primers, modern powders, and those funny bullets to reach way out there and kill that deer they haven't been able to find during the normal firearm gun season. I doubt very much that BrownBear faces these kind of " Overcrowding " hunting hazards on Kodiak Island.

I have the parts for a .50 caliber Hawken style rifle to finish, but I never intended it to be needed to kill deer here. At the time I bought all the parts, I was thinking it might be needed for Elk, and maybe fore large Mule deer. Of course, it would be good for moose, caribou, and Black Bear. I was not too sure about using it on Brown or Polar bears. I also never expected to have the opportunity to hunt in Alaska. One of the reasons that gun remains as parts is because my hunting has been limited to deer, and my RB rifle is more than adequate for the largest White Tail I hunt.

I suspect that is the same frame of reference of most of the people BrownBear labels as " snobs", here. Its not that we are critical of conicals as killing projectiles at all; rather, we have each enjoyed the discovery that our ancestors actually knew the secret of using the right projectile for deer- and its the pure lead, Round Ball-- in the right kind of gun with the limits imposed on the shooter by the open sights used.

When I killed my first deer, with a .50 cal. RB at about 40 yards, a man staying in a camper near where I parked my car, helped me drag and carry that carcass out of the woods. His father was shooting a .54 caliber MLer with Maxiballs, and had complained the night before, when I had met them, about his shoulder being sore from firing 5 rds. through his gun at a paper plate he had put up in a dry wash about 60 yards away. He fired 5 shots, and hit the 10 inch plate only 3 times. He was shocked to see that my RB had gone completely through this large doe's chest, breaking a rib going in, and another going out. He didn't know a RB could do that. He muttered something about using RBs in the future so his shoulder would not be so sore. I don't recall ever seeing his gun, but He hauled out a H&R " Topper" single Barrel shotgun in 10 GAUGE :shocked2: , and fired a couple of 3 inch casings loaded with slugs at the same target. The first shot missed. The second shot hit an edge, and he let his son shoot the third shot. The man was only about 5'4" tall, and no more than 150 lbs. The gun could not have weighed 7 lbs. They offered me a shot with the gun, but I begged off. He told me he bought the gun to shoot fox, and found some deer slug loads for it, and brought it out as a " backup " gun for hunting deer! Wow! NO wonder he thought he needed a .54 shooting conicals with who knows how much powder in it to kill a deer!

I wish you and others who think that only a conical will kill, all the best. As for Brownbear, I know from reading his posts what conditions exist where he hunts, and I don't fault his choice of conicals over RB. at all. :hatsoff:


I understand what you are trying to say and I DO respect YOUR opinion (YOU have taught me much as have some others on here) BUT.....
Far to often questions are asked and the knee-jerk "roundballs" is the awnser when they, roundballs, are NOT part of the equasion...IE:
Q: What is the best CONNICAL? A: roundballs :shocked2:
Q: what do you like better, T/C Maxi's or Horniday GP's? A: roundballs :doh:
Q: what collor are trees? A: roundballs :blah:
Some people on the site are asking GOOD, ligitamate questions and "roundballs" are NOT the awnser!!!!

Now if someone asks YOUR preferance overall or connical VS RB's, or what do YOU choose to hunt with etc THEN.......The awnser can be RB"s :grin:
 
Wattsy: YOu are right. I am occasionally guilty of ignorring the poster's question and giving him my recommendation, even if it doesn't answer his question.

The best Conical question is impossible to answer, without testing different brands out of an individual gun. I think that is why we old guys tend to move on and suggest that conicals are NOT needed for most hunting. I recommend them for hunting Large Wild Boar, for Elk, Moose, Bear, and Caribou. In that list, there are tough animals, there are large, heavy animals, and their are animals that can fight back.

I know they can, and have been, killed with a PRB, and with lesser cartridges, but for today's hunters, I recommend using conicals.

The guys who are good enough to get in close and shoot a large animal with a PRB know who they are and that they can deliver that RB accurately to kill at the ranges they choose.

But the casual hunter, the new guy, and those without much experience estimating accurately distances over broken terrain need the added Oomph of a conical when hunting these big animals.

We see so many new posters come on here who obviously are new to MLing, have NO friends or local club to turn to, and get their advice about gun, caliber, powder and projectile suggestions from a clerk in a store whose only interest is in earning a small commission by selling what he has on the shelf. These clerks rarely have any experience shooting BP guns at all. They don't know a thing about how a RB works. And, there is enough bad information about RB out there to see store after store taking them off the shelf, and not re-ordering. Today, every gunner has to shoot a plastic stocked, Stainless steel, Zip Gun, shooting shotgun primers, modern substitute powders, and copper jacketed pistol bullets surrounded by non-biodegradable plastics. Of course, the gun has a scope on it, and they are encouraged to use HUGE loads of powder so they can shoot game as far as they can with a modern cartridge rifle during the regular firearms season.

Most of us are inclined to just start answering these guys from the beginning with proper advice about shooting traditional firearms. We do need to mind our manners a bit more, however. Thanks for making those observations. :thumbsup:
 
From reading the posts I am in the minority here. I use round ball and maxi-ball and maxi-hunter in my 54 and it all depends on what I am using it for. In my 32 and 36 I use maxi-balls when hunting varmints and round ball when hunting for food. Don't know how I got into this use pattern but it works for me so I stick with it. When target shooting I use round ball too as I am trying to get the most out of my rifles. I also have put a scope on one of my Seneca's in 36 caliber which I use mainly for varmint hunting and other is still original. At my age I cheat when I need to and enjoy my sport. I don't think I have ruined my Seneca by putting a scope on it so I can still use it at longer ranges. By the way the farthest I have shot with it so far is two hundred yards and was only off 2 inches with a scope that wasn't sighted in yet for the rifle. I will take that any day even if I have to cheat to do it. Now if I am going hunting I used the one that is still original as I don't shoot that far with it maybe 50-60 yards max.
Hope all can make smoke and enjoy their muzzle loader no matte what they stuff into it within reason.
Oh I have started using 3f in all my muzzle loaders, ww lead, magnum primers and pillow ticking for patching. I have used 4f in my ruger old Army but you have to pay attention to how much you are using. I tried 40 grains only once and it wasn't worth the noise.
I may not go out in all the proper clothes when I use my muzzle loader but I am not one who likes the new plastic protected bullets. Yea I tried them and just don't see the reason and still have some when I want to see if things have changed so far no change.Lead and a patch still work best for me.
 
FFFFg powder is PRIMING POWDER ONLY. Never use it as the propelling charge in any gun. Its a credit to the Ruger company that their revolver did not blow up when you put a 40 grain charge of FFFFg powder in it. A lot of replicas would not have done as well.

If your guns will shoot both PRB and certain conicals, there is no reason to apologize for using them here. My .50 cal. rifle is a RB only gun, because I bought a very thin, straight barrel. MY hawken barrel, with the same ROT, will shoot both PRB and conical equally well. I don't know what I will hunt that needs the conical, but I will have that option with that barrel.

If I had a .36 caliber rifle that would shoot conicals accurately, I would use it for hunting coyotes, too. I would be inclined to see how far that bullet would carry, accurately, too.

Have fun. :hatsoff:
 
Paul,

If I read your post correctly in regards to the Davenport Formula does this math proof out?

R=.25 (my rifle being a .50 cal)
Barrel length is 29"

so P*R squared = 0.19635
0.19635 * 11.5 = 2.258025
2.258025 * 29 = 65.482725

So presuming I did this correctly, the formula states my maximum efficient load is going to be 65 to 66 grains?

Does this this number get effected by the mass of the projectile? Type of powder (ffg or fffg)? Diameter of ball, thickness of patch, or type and amount of lube?

Were does the Davenport Formula come from, I have not heard of it before (that means nothing) and didn't turn up anything on a quick Google search.

Thanks...

By the way, went to the range today (second time I have shot this rifle or any BP rifle for that matter). At 50 yards my .495 balls over 50g of 3F did well but spread out left to right while keeping the same elevation which was way low at 100.

Upped it to 70g and again all was well at 50 but who knows what at 100 yards as I didn't even hit the freakin paper :cursing:

Our club quits range operations at 5:00 so unfortunately I ran out of time before I could work out what the heck was going on.
 
What is the Rate of Twist of the rifling in your gun? What is the bore diameter? Groove diameter?

Some guns won't shoot FFFg powder well at all. It can be touchy, particularly in the fast twist barrels. MIne is 1:48, and I would prefer a 1:60 to 1:72 for PRB. However, you can get a PRB to stabilize in any ROT. The fasters ROTs just require less powder for accuracy, and can require careful measuring of powder.

I can't tell you what is going on with the gun from here. I suspect sighting errors for the wide dispersion. Often, these short barreled guns have the same width front sight that the company puts on their longer barrel models. That makes it a lot bigger, and unless you are en experienced handgun shooter, this can throw you.

In my 39" barrel'ed .50, I shoot 60 grains of 2Fg powder, and use a .015" patch, but am going to work with some .018" patching to see if I can tighten up the groups. ( one never quits!)

That load, BTW, was good enough to completely penetrate the broadside of an old doe for my first MLer kill, at about 35-40 yards. The ball entered just above the heart, and took aortas, and lungs, breaking ribs coming and going!

You might be able to shoot that better by using a thinner front sight BLADE. Or, you can learn to use the center of the top of the post or bead as your aiming point( aim small, miss small) like long range pistol and revolver shooters do. I suggest for target work, particularly in poor or failing light, that you use a " sighter" by taking a piece of white typing paper, fold a corner over to the opposite corner, to make a triangle. Then staple a triangle to your target so that the point of the triangle is the center of the bullseye. That will help with windage, and, at longer range, with elevation issues. It also works for my old eyes! :blah: :surrender: :thumbsup:
 
Paul,

I don't mind when you disagree with me.

But I'm going to disagree with you. You might get some 1:28 rifles to shoot PRB just fine. My only experience is with the one I have.

It will NOT shoot PRB accurately. Ball diameter, patch thikness, powder charge, powder brand, ff or fff, I honestly do not think there is a possible combo you can come up with that I haven't tried.

It won't shoot PRB.
 
marmotslayer said:
Well, seeings as you have the 1/48, you should be able to shoot all the conicals you mentioned...but; the minnie is not a good choice if you plan to shoot warm loads cause the skirt opens up sorta like a badminton bird.

I keep hearing stuff like that and that the skirt gets blown with heavy loads and I've never seen it happen with my rifle.
 
rebel727 said:
marmotslayer said:
Well, seeings as you have the 1/48, you should be able to shoot all the conicals you mentioned...but; the minnie is not a good choice if you plan to shoot warm loads cause the skirt opens up sorta like a badminton bird.

I keep hearing stuff like that and that the skirt gets blown with heavy loads and I've never seen it happen with my rifle.

Had that issue for awhile resulting in "zingers" in about 1 outta 4 shots. A felt OP wad fixed that right up though and now I shoot-em with confidance.
 
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