"modernizing" a long rifle

[Joel/Calgary]

In my far-from-exhaustive research, it seems patent breeches (Nock/Manton/etc.) and wedged rather than pinned barrels frequently went together in late-period flinters, but were not necessarily correlated. As mentioned, wedge-retained barrels, with or without hooked breeches, predate patent breeches by a fair bit.

The necessity/ desirability/ irrelevance of dismounting a barrel for cleaning has been/is constantly/ will forever be debated. Personally, I don't with pinned barrels, and usualy but not always do with hooked-breech ones. There is another reason that some will encounter for wanting a reasonably-quick-detachable barrel: firearms regulations in Canada, some US States (I've been told - havent researched) and probably other jurisdictions. In Canada, FEDERAL regulations state that a muzzleloader with powder & ball/shot loaded is deemed to be unloaded for purposes of transoprtation if the cap OR FLINT is dismounted. Most provincial hunting regulations explicitely follow suit.

I prefer to keep my load(s) in until I fire it/them at something, and I've heard from numerous other of similar inclination. Dump the priming, lower the cock, plug the touch-hole, fit a hammer stall, cover the lock to keep the cock tied down, and lock it in a hard case, and one is still contravening both Federal firearms regulations and provincial hunting regulations if you put it in your vehicle. Whether your local conservation or law-enforcement officer will choose to enforce the letter of the law or to allow for the exercise of judgement is separate matter.

I don't know about others, but I consider fitting a flint to a loaded firearm to be both fussy and rather dangerous, and I sure as hell don't like doing it at 0-dark-30 on a hunting morning. Wedges and a tang screw will probably work fine for end-of-the-day cleaning and/or occasional inspection, work, etc., but not for relocating to see if the game is "over there" instead of "here" this morning. When transporting or storing my fowler loaded, I dismount the barrels, put a strap or rubber band around the touch-holes, and carry them separarted in the case. With pinned-barrel flinters, I do what seems appropriate to me at the time. However, I'm seriously considering getting a hooked-breech barrel in some mid- or late-18th century style for which wedges would have been acceptable in my next hunting rifle.

For resale value, if the style is not one for which a hooked breech would be likely, in at least in some of these jurisdictions, utility plus uncommon-but-possible could counter not-common/usual in the authenticity arguments. Besides, it will likely be my heirs and descendants who have to deal with that, if they aren't just shooting it.

Hmm - d@mn, I type slowly. Gotta go.
Joel

 

[tcostell]

Actually that was my principle concern with the idea. Seems to me the lock will have to move forward a might to make room and that will change the relationship to the wrist, trigger etc. I've drawn it out on paper a few times and it seems like it's not too terrible, but it does lose a little in terms of 'flow' if you know what I mean.
I'm not actually trying to copy a master, but I'd like a rifle that is as attractive as I can make it.

 

[Joel/Calgary]

Seems to me the lock will have to move forward a might to make room and that will change the relationship to the wrist, trigger etc.

Does it work out this way if the hook is formed out of the extension of an otherwise-conventional breechplug? The full-size portion of the barrel, including breechplug, is then no longer than normal, and it looks (looking at my firelocks but without drawing it out on paper in 3-d) like the "reciever", or whatever it's called, does not have to be the full width or depth of the barrel and ought to adequately clear the tumbler.

Joel

 

[CrackStock]

Parson,

You have to ask yourself what you want the rifle to do. If you want a hunting or competition gun, then do as you will. If you want to participate in re-enacting events, then you might be able to do such a grand job that nobody will even notice.

However,
Yeah, a lot of rifles used wedges. Yeah, you can get your hooked breach to mate correctly and achieve only a thin line.

It is also a pain and is incorrect.

Besides, a hooked breach has no substantive advantage over a fixed breach to an experienced ML user. You can pull the lock, plug the nipple or vent and fill the bore with water. Dump and refill and the fill again and use a patched jag to force water through the vent or nipple to clear it. Dry and oil. No big deal.

Wedges are more convenient than pins only if you insist upon removing your barrel. As for me, I like my barrel to stay right where it belongs.

I shot my pinned fixed breach Tennessee in competition today and cleaned it faster than the T/C Hawken guys could clean theirs.

CS

 

[ol vern]

Hooked breach & barrel keys may be uncommon but they are not incorrect. Full stocked guns do exsist.

I remember seeing a original from the 1830's that full stocked with keys & hook breach.

The big problem with the hooked breach set up is it real easy to damage the fore end when you pull the barrel out of the stock. Take a look at all the old guns out there with the wood split or missing from the fore end. That is why the hook breach is more common on half stock guns.

I never pull the barrel out of the stock unless I need to unbreach it.