Modifying TC lock

[tallPercshooter]

I have a TC percussion lock I want to use - but not with patent breech, but a drum and nipple. It is case hardened all over. Is there any way to cut a notch in the bolster to use a drum? Grindstone on a drill, maybe?

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

I would not modify the lock. Find a hammer and create the off set needed for the drum and nipple. Or keep your eyes out for a used lock on here. T/C originals are not so much available any longer. I know that there are those that keep the old T/C locks cranking away.I would find an alternative that you would not mind hacking away at. L&R has a couple of locks that might suit what your,e looking for. RPL model,s. Might be an easier fit without all the work.

 

[Crows-R-US]

TC used to sell a conversion kit to change their flinchlocks to percussion that consisted of a lock with a notch exactly like you're thinking about and a drum to replace the vent liner. And that's all they did was cut a notch in the lockplate to fit the drum. And though a bit of the notch would show you could still use it with TC barrels if you wanted to swap back & forth between barrels later if you wish.

If you have a drill press and some way to hold the lock steady, an end mill the same diameter as your drum should make short work of it. Or a dremel with a cylindrical grindstone would work but likely take longer.

And TC locks aren't really case-hardened, they're case-colored which adds very little hardening.

 

[bluemule66]

Yes you can. I have a CVA mountain rifle that someone fit a TC lock onto.

 

[sqqy14]

Like Crows-R-US said...I did it to a T/C lock by using a grinding attachment on a dremel. It was on a Pennsylvania Hunter.
Switched back and forth, flint to percussion.

 

[user 34300]

I did it a long time ago. I bought a hammer. I cut off the pan. I made a drum. Tapped the barrel at he flash hole for the drum. I cut the notch for the drum, marking the pate with the drum, before shortening the threads. I brazed on a bit of fence to stop all cap fragments. I used files.

I now regret converting it. I wish I had left it alone. I assembled it when I was 13YO. I modified it over the years. I'd now prefer the time capsule.

 

[tallPercshooter]

I personally think a drum and nipple is more surefire than a patent breech, with its narrow flash channel to the powder. A lot easier to clean when the drum has a cleanout screw, too.

 

[user 34300]

The drum goes into the patent breech on a TC conversion. Not a good set up. I avoid patent breeches whenever possible. In my hands reliability is poor.

Be careful of thin barrel walls and percussion drums. Be sure and support the drum with the lock plate against the hammer blow. When you drill the hole in the drum, think about the wall thickness at the start of the threads. With 5/16" threads I would not go over my 8-32 tap drill size for the flame channel. The 8-32 will be your clean out screw, if you make it that way. You do not need one. It may be "better" not to use it. I can not say how much "better". I do not like the idea of the clean out screw shooting out when firing.

 

[Uncle Miltie]

I personally think a drum and nipple is more surefire than a patent breech, with its narrow flash channel to the powder. A lot easier to clean when the drum has a cleanout screw, too.

It's not if the gun is properly cleaned and managed. A patent breech is quite a bit stronger than a drum, and in the old days quality guns and those which used heavy charges usually used a patent breech.

 

[FishDFly]

TC used to sell a conversion kit to change their flinchlocks to percussion that consisted of a lock with a notch exactly like you're thinking about and a drum to replace the vent liner. And that's all they did was cut a notch in the lockplate to fit the drum. And though a bit of the notch would show you could still use it with TC barrels if you wanted to swap back & forth between barrels later if you wish.

If you have a drill press and some way to hold the lock steady, an end mill the same diameter as your drum should make short work of it. Or a dremel with a cylindrical grindstone would work but likely take longer.

And TC locks aren't really case-hardened, they're case-colored which adds very little hardening.

flinchlock, huh?

 

[waarp8nt]

First of all the case hardening on the T/C locks are cosmetic only. It comes off by soaking the lock plate in white vinegar, nothing special there or hardened.

I had a Dixie Gun Works 28 gauge flintlock. The flintlock was pretty much worthless as it was nearly impossible to get sparks to make it functioning. I decided I wanted to get the little 28ga up and shooting and had plenty of T/C caplock locks laying around. So, away with the flintlock and inlet the T/C caplock, after inletting and installing the drum in the Dixie barrel (barrel wall plenty thick for the drum), I could easily locate where to machine the bolster area of the lock. I used a mill bit in a milling maching, it made easy work of modifying the lock. If you don't have a milling machine, a rotary file in a power drill would work or with enough elbow grease a round file would work (remember John Browning started with a hacksaw, file and a dream to make a better rifle).

In my opinion, T/C caplocks can be purchased fairly reasonable, so why not use them for projects?

 

[Crows-R-US]

flinchlock, huh?

Yessir, heard the term one time and I liked it..