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Moose Lube Ingredients

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Nathan Ripley

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I am having a hard time finding the witch hazel and castor oil in pure forms. Most offerings are mixed with some other ingredient. What are you fellows using brand name wise?
 
Here is want I use.
This is not something I invented, it was brought to my attention by another shooter and I found it works great as a patch lube.

Ingredients:

Napa water soluble cutting oil (found in your local auto store)

Murphy's oil soap

Water (Rubbing alcohol (optional))
If you live in or hunt in an area that has allot of sub-zero temps. You can replace the water with rubbing alcohol to prevent it from freezing.

1 liter water bottle (to store it)

Fill water bottle half full with WARM water. Add 2 oz. each of the water soluble oil and the Murphy’s oil soap. Shake well and watch it turn white. This means it is mixed. Once mixed it won't unmix. Fill bottle up with water.

This is a fine lube for patches and keeps fouling soft.

This is intended for a PATCH LUBE ONLY! Do not use it as a rust preventer after cleaning as the oil will absorb moisture from the atmosphere and could result in rust.
 
Witch hazel and castor oil can be found in the health and beauty section of any Wal-Mart. Witch hazel is with the skin cleansers or alcohol and castor oil is with the laxatives.

HD
 
Don't know about Moose Lube ingredients, but a couple of days ago I put together a concoction of equal parts Marvel Mystry Oil, deer tallow and bees wax. I went to our range and gave it a go, and it performed as expected. After I clean my gun I swab the barrel down with a patch of this special juice............ smells good too :wink:
 
I found it all at walmart and mixed it up
but it keeps separating is this normal?
 
Just shake the bottle before re-using the mix, and it will combine again. I believe the soap is the culprit in keeping the ingredients from combining and staying together. And, its probably some trace additive to the soap that does it, because this does not happen all the time.
 
Totally Normal. Moose Juice is a suspension (not a solution) of oils, water, detergent, and a couple of minor players. The hydrophobic components will always want to layer out on top of the water. Shaking vigorously will return the oils to suspension, but they are not actually dissolving. With time, it will always end up layering.
 
I recently made a batch of Juice and did about 50 .010 and 50 .015 patches with it. Some of them turned out considerably more "slimy" than the others. Is this normal or did I do something wrong?
 
I get the Witch hazle from the health and beauty / pharmacy department at Walmart and the castor oil I buy from the local hobby shop. Folks that fly remote control airplanes, R. C. race cars and R. C. boats mix it in their fuel, besides its a heck of a lot cheaper then when I can find it a the local pharmacy. Hope that helps :thumbsup:
 
I've got my patches a dryin' with the juice. Now I will conquer the snot. Love the terms! Thanks for all the help and advice.
 
BigMikeM said:
I recently made a batch of Juice and did about 50 .010 and 50 .015 patches with it. Some of them turned out considerably more "slimy" than the others. Is this normal or did I do something wrong?

How did you dry them? If you hang them the bottoms will be slimier that the tops. I dry the strips I treat laid flat on wax paper on top of newspaper on my workbench.

You also have to stir the lube frequently between dipping strips as it tends to seperate. When I do a strip I work it like I was taught to do film in a darkroom - form a "U" and work it back and forth through the pan/tray/bowl. If you're doing pre-cut patches you might want to try tossing them all in at once and working them by hand like you were rinsing off lettuce.
 
Does anybody have a source for small tins and the small glass bottles (corked or screw top does not matter to me)?
 
Have you checked with Hobby shops or craft stores? I have not looked lately, but they had those kind of things in our local store.
 
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