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The Tanner molds from England are a good value but they don't come with sprue cutters. A diagonal wire cutter will remove the sprue well enough for use in a smooth bored gun.

This is a super important tip when using a Tanner mold in this caliber, as the sprue stem is of pretty good size diameter in this size ball. Buy GOOD ones and DON'T use them for anything else and they will last a long time.

Gus
 
The best overall size ball for a .75 pedersoli bess is a .715 ball, its a shade tighter than a .69 and manages fouling well.
In a .77 colerain or a .79 rayl barrel the the .735 ball is what i use.
I have 7 BROWN BESSE'S and I also shoot .715's in all of them with out a hiccup! for me it is the way to go!!
 
Many thanks for all the comebacks. I was traveling yesterday and didn't have a chance to answer before now.
I'll probably order a Tanner .715 here shortly. Thanks for the tip.


ADDITIONAL INFO:

I called Dixie Gun Works. They said they'd take back the .75 mold.

I went back and measured the bore of the 'Bess again. It's a solid .75 with my Midway calipers I use for reloading.

Furthermore, I took some .010 ticking and found that 3 thicknesses (.030) gives a snug fit that would require a bullet starter.

I guess it's going to be a matter of going up to the fabric store and testing fabric with the calipers. Besides polyester, is there any fabric I should stay away from?


ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS:

So, with the Tanner mold, if I have a spare Lee mold and just bump out the pins, I can use those handles with what Tanner is sending me?

For the paper cartridges, what is y'all's favorite paper choice? I've seen brown shopping bag, butcher paper and cooking parchment. I've got all 3.
I notice a lot of cartridges made up with the ball section lubed with something. What is your favorite lube? My first guess would be a smear of Crisco.

I've got a .75 wooden dowel that does not fit down the muzzle, Given that the bore is .75, how much should I sand off the dowel to make my mandrel? What should my finished cartridge diameter?
 
I get the whole thing with paper cartridges, but is there a patch material you'd recommend for filling that large gap (.69 to .75). Cotton flannel maybe? I've got everything for making cartridges, but I'd also like to try patchin.

So the problem with patching a smooth bore, is that unlike a rifle with symmetric lands and grooves for the patching material to use when folding..., the lack of the grooves = different folds each time that you load = inconsistent ball position each shot. 👎

This might account for the reason why there are no known 18th century references to folks patching smooth bores (so far), even when it was quite obvious that they had seen patched ball being used in rifles. ;)

YET..., I have read where certain light infantry, and "select marksmen" were allowed to make up several cartridges for accurate shooting, while the rest of the army was issued pre-made cartridges, both in the F&I and AWI, in the British army.

So from my experimentation, it appears that for accuracy from a Bess or a British Carbine, you need a custom fitted cartridge former. A wooden dowel around which you roll your cartridges.

You get a dowel the size of your musket ball. I took an oversized piece of dowel, and compared it to the musket ball I was going to use. Then I sanded it down until it was close. but had room for improvement. Next I wrapped the cartridge paper around the dowel, and tried to insert the wrapped dowel into my musket muzzle. It was too big. So I sanded the dowel some, and tried again. I repeated the process, until the dowel wrapped in the cartridge paper would slide into the muzzle without trouble, but was a very close fit. THEN I finished a cartridge tube, and dropped in my musket ball. Then I checked the fit of the cartridge tube with the musket ball, and it was a nice, snug, custom fit.

What I then have is a "paper patched" round ball, which does not create any folds in the patching when loading. It can be used as it, or you can put a wad in between, and I'm told by one shooter than you can do the same thing with aluminum foil and fit a dowel using the foil instead of paper. This does help accuracy, and the chap who told me about the foil said you don't need to worry about smoldering paper down range or the main charge burning up the paper around the ball before it exits the bore..., only you make very short "cartridge tubes" from foil, and trim up the foil show it's very near to the ball, and that way the foil acts like a "cup" and not a cartridge. You carry the foil encased ball apart from the powder and not as one-piece cartridges.

The only drawback is that this snug fit is, like a rifle, only good for very few shots before the bore needs swabbing...and if you don't have a consistent source of paper for patching you may need to repeat the process if you start using thicker paper...

LD
 
As I wrote earlier, the .75 mold I got for the Bess didn't work out. Instead of throwing balls at .735, it throws them at .76.

That leaves me with a Lee .69 mold that is spot on. However. . .

I get the whole thing with paper cartridges, but is there a patch material you'd recommend for filling that large gap (.69 to .75). Cotton flannel maybe? I've got everything for making cartridges, but I'd also like to try patchin.

Second question:

Lee is still not accepting orders for custom molds and everywhere I look the larger molds are all on backorder/unavailable. Is there a source of .7-something molds out there suitable for the 'Bess?
Go to the local Lowe’s or any hardware store and buy a couple of the old-style two-pocket white cotton canvas nail aprons that you tie around your waist and cut them into patches. They are cheap and made of pretty thick material.
 
Go to your local fabric store. JoAnn Fabrics has the most extensive selection of 100% cotton utility cloth from pillow ticking to heavy canvas. A yard of their heavy canvas is cheaper than the workman's apron or painter's drop cloth at the hardware store. JoAnn Fabrics can be cheaper when you use the discount coupon available on the web site.
 
Dave:
OK. That makes sense now. I was wondering why I couldn't find much information on cloth patching for the 'Bess.

Based on your instructions, I took my .75 dowel and sanded it a bit. I produced a couple of proto-cartridges (w/o powder) from cooking parchment that easily fit the bore. I've at least got that box checked.

I'll repeat that with shopping bag paper later and work up a few of each.

While I'm working up the load, I'll make some truncated cartridges that would mimic the biting-off. That way, I can pour powder from a measure and still have the same general bulk of the paper and ball.

I dig the aluminum foil idea, I'll give that a try. When I hunt with it, I'll be looking for all the accuracy I can get.

I'm also going to the fabric store later and start measuring swatches. The workman's apron idea gives me a good gauge on where to start.
 
As I wrote earlier, the .75 mold I got for the Bess didn't work out. Instead of throwing balls at .735, it throws them at .76.

That leaves me with a Lee .69 mold that is spot on. However. . .

I get the whole thing with paper cartridges, but is there a patch material you'd recommend for filling that large gap (.69 to .75). Cotton flannel maybe? I've got everything for making cartridges, but I'd also like to try patchin.

Second question:

Lee is still not accepting orders for custom molds and everywhere I look the larger molds are all on backorder/unavailable. Is there a source of .7-something molds out there suitable for the 'Bess?
I had Larry Callahan make me a mold for my 66 caliber smooth bore musket. Google Callahan Bagmoldsand you should find his website. You have to place an order online and then call him. He will call you back to complete the order. Larry is in Missouri.
 
i find it perfect for both range and deer and hog.

i use a heavier paper cartridge made from parchment and coated in wax with 100 1f, I can get 15-20 good targeted shots without a swab. 4 out of 10 on the mark.

if youre looking for a single dead center shot of course that would be only Be achieved with a patched round ball not saying I don’t do that but I don’t do it often at the range.

personally they key to an accurate shot in my opinion is the powder volume, not so much the size of the ball. Windage always takes over in smoothie.

Do you coat the parchment in wax yourself and, if so, how do you do this? Or do you purchase wax-coated paper? Does the wax make the remnants of the cartridge less likely to come out burning and potentially start a fire in dry grass?
 
Dave:
OK. That makes sense now. I was wondering why I couldn't find much information on cloth patching for the 'Bess.

Based on your instructions, I took my .75 dowel and sanded it a bit. I produced a couple of proto-cartridges (w/o powder) from cooking parchment that easily fit the bore. I've at least got that box checked.

I'll repeat that with shopping bag paper later and work up a few of each.

Hmmm...,
Well the process was to fit the dowel to your chosen ball first ..., then check the paper fit. That way IF you use undersized ball like a military loading..., say a .680-.690 in the Bess..., You can then adjust your paper for the accuracy cartridge, by making it longer, so you get more layers of paper to snug it up to the bore. ;)

This was probably what the Light Infantry and Select Marksmen were doing..., taking issued (small) musket ball, and fashioning cartridges with more than the standard fit, that snug up the fit for when they wanted an accurate round.

OH I forgot to mention that some folks like to dip their finished cartridges into melted bullet lube, at least as far as the musket ball, to facilitate live fire.

LD
 
Don't give up on the .760" cast balls.
I bought some at .760.
Then I got a suitable leather punch, or made one, can't remember, and hammered a ring of lead off the balls so they then slid down the barrel. Shot very well.
 
Do you coat the parchment in wax yourself and, if so, how do you do this? Or do you purchase wax-coated paper? Does the wax make the remnants of the cartridge less likely to come out burning and potentially start a fire in dry grass?

I use cooking parchment, the kind people bake cookies on. It has silicone based properties, that keep it from sticking to the barrel and also keeps it from burning after it leaves the barrel. It comes in all kinds of thicknesses I have three kinds for my .66, 69 and 75 paper cartridges.

I first roll the cartridge with the ball in it, and pinch off the end with a twist or tie.

Then I dip the ball end in a melted mixture of bees wax, carnauba wax, rosin crystals and some olive oil. (Mixed in a tin 40% bees wax 40% caranuba and10% Rosen and 10% olive oil. The carnauba and Rosen have hardening properties making the wax coating stick and dry, when its pressed into the bore it becomes greasy and acts as a lubricant.

The only thing I do vastly different is I use 1F powder, it tends to not become contaminated because of its larger grains. 2F works fine in paper cartridges but sometimes the waxed ball end can contaminate the powder.

After the paper cartridges cool, I fill them with powder and fold.

I do exactly what loyalist Dave mentions regarding the fitted dowel, this way I can measure the gauge of paper I want to use, but I generally use a sheet of cooking parchment and make the dowel larger.
 

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Some folks like using waxed paper too, it works very much like parchment but isn’t burn proof. I’m going to try a natural organic brown waxed paper, see how that works.

a few weeks ago a buddy of mine used a burger wrapper, worked great.
 
Some folks like using waxed paper too, it works very much like parchment but isn’t burn proof. I’m going to try a natural organic brown waxed paper, see how that works.

a few weeks ago a buddy of mine used a burger wrapper, worked great.

I can see it now. Go to the McDonald's Drive Through and at the end of your regular order, the final item is a gross of burger wrappers........ :p

Or is there a different preferred burger wrapper?

When you shoot them, do they smell like lunch? 😆


Gus
 
I can see it now. Go to the McDonald's Drive Through and at the end of your regular order, the final item is a gross of burger wrappers........ :p

Or is there a different preferred burger wrapper?

When you shoot them, do they smell like lunch? 😆


Gus

Arby’s ! They’ve got the beef and the grease !
 
I went to Jo-Ann Fabric today armed with my calipers. Flannel was .015. Duck was .020. I finally switched to an upscale Jute Burlap that mic'd at .030. It's a fairly open weave. 1/2 a yard cost me $2. That's reasonable for an experiment. The fabric ladies thought I was nuts.
 
I went to Jo-Ann Fabric today armed with my calipers. Flannel was .015. Duck was .020. I finally switched to an upscale Jute Burlap that mic'd at .030. It's a fairly open weave. 1/2 a yard cost me $2. That's reasonable for an experiment. The fabric ladies thought I was nuts.

Fairly open weave may not work as it might burn through it. Still, if it doesn't work, it didn't cost much.

Yes, the ladies ALWAYS think we are nuts going to a fabric store for patch material. LOL!!

Gus
 
Flannel doesn't have the integrity to hold together. Flannel is an excellent cleaning patch, it's just not a good patch to use to patch up a round ball.

The open weave jute will not have the density to act as a gas seal. Actually, the jute can be shredded to be used as nesting wad of tow and that might prove to be better than a patch.

Next time you are in JoAnn Fabrics, ask about the utility cloth for pillow and mattress ticking and drill cloth. Also look at the denims and the canvas. Linen (of 100% flax) is too expensive and often has too open a weave.
 
UPDATE:
The burlap fits all right, but I'm not sure it's going to hold together. Oh well. As previously mentioned, it won't form a gas seal anyway.

My father died a decade ago and left me with a collection of paper grocery bags. He must have saved them for years. I tried to make a cartridge out of one and hit paydirt. This looks like the most viable idea yet.
 
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