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luie b said:
My guns must have some real big problems 'cause my targets are LEWIS soybean bags.
Luie, would that be considered a "Bean Gun" :rotf:
 
Actually, you are also correct, but you don't explain How those championship target guns are able to get that low SDV, and fine accuracy. Do you even know?? I do.

I wrote this for the average member here who mostly shoots off-hand, and is wanting to reduce the size of his groups for hunting. He uses an undersized ball, and, often, an undersized patch, all to help him load the PRB down the barrel quickly, often in the dark of night!

The price for using that ball/patch combination, however, is gas blow by, at a small level, as seen in the spent patches. Using an OP wad will seal the gases, and, AS YOU ADMIT, protect the patch around the ball from burning or tearing. IF THE USE OF AN OP WAD ONLY DID THAT, it would be worth using, IMHO.

You are welcome to disagree.

However, I, and a number of members here, have found( in my case, purely by accident) that using the OP wad increases the velocity about 20 fps, and reduces the SDV by half in my .50 cal. rifle.

If you have actually done your own testing, and have found otherwise, please let us know the details!

As to the correlation between lower SDV, and smaller groups, I consider it very good based on my own experiments, and testing. However, I do know ways that OVERSIZED soft lead RBS can be loaded in MLer rifle barrels, often with .018" thick patches coated with teflon on one side, that can and do achieve similar low SDVs, and fine accuracy. I only add this so that members who might have been interested in fine bench rest target shooting accuracy, know a direction to go to get there.

If someone is interested in more details, they can send me a PT. :hatsoff:
 
If the correct patch/ball combo is used there will be no blow by or need for an over the powder wad.
 
If the correct patch/ball combo is used there will be no blow by or need for an over the powder wad.

Keep saying it Mark. Maybe that will make it true. :haha:

I will agree with you once more. With a well fitted patch/ball combination one does not "need" a wad. But you can't seem to grasp that a wad does have its uses and can improve long range accuracy, even with a perfect patch/ball combination.
 
Wads do have uses in cap & ball pistols, and shotguns. They also increase the profit margins of the companies that produce them.
 
“I wrote this for the average member here who mostly shoots off-hand, and is wanting to reduce the size of his groups for hunting. He uses an undersized ball, and, often, an undersized patch, all to help him load the PRB down the barrel quickly, often in the dark of night!”
This individual is exactly me and I suspect it is the majority of the rest of us.
I have tried virtually everything this man (Paul V) has opined. I am satisfied for my own sake that most of it simply doesn’t work ”¦”¦”¦well. Sure you can make it work but the advantage is slight to non-existent for the “average member here who mostly shoots off-hand”.
I am not a dedicated target match shooter so I have not comment on that part.
But for heavens sake if I had to go through all the procedures Paul V does to shoot, I would take up golf, and I hate golf!
 
How pc is using op wads? Hey, if you want to really improve things try sabots. I'm fat and lazy I guess. I don't want to complicate things too much and add another step.
 
How pc is using op wads?

:haha: I don't care squat about pc smoothflinter. I enjoy shooting my GP flinter, an 1863 Remington, and a couple of Green Mountain fitted TC Hawkins with peep sights. I also love my three Renegades (.45, .50 & .54) that wear (OH MY GOD) 4X scopes. Did you say "sabots"? Shame on you for uttering the word. :redface: Uh-oh, I have two rifles in the closet that use those things, but they don't see as much use as my sidehammers. I like to shoot them all and buy my GOEX by the case. I truly admire the guys who go pc all the way. But that's not me.

I presently have the hots for a .40 cherry stocked flinter in Southern Mountain style from TVM. I might even shoot that one from the bag. :wink:

.
 
I got a Renegade that feeds on Maxiballs only. Just picked up a Krag this week. I'm not trying to be a snob about PC, but to me that's what my flintlocks are all about (all the way, baby :hatsoff: ). They are as pc as I could make them with my limited knowledge and skill.
 
Scoping a flintlock is just wrong. Kinda like putting a blower and slicks on a model T.
 
Over powder wads work well in rifles for what they work for. They can protect your patch if it needs it. They can protect your bullet base if it needs it. They can behave as a sabot to impart spin in a shallow groove barrel if it needs it. And if they're made right, they can help prevent gas cutting if your playing with a high powered fast twist that needs it.
If you got a problem they can fix they're good (if you taylor the wad to the problem).
 
I was shooting my new creation today and the conditions were as bad as you would want.
89 degrees and 95% humidity but I didn’t have any problems with 4f GOEX fouling the pan. I am just not understanding what to make of this. One time it fouls and another time it doesn’t.

IMG_2117.jpg


No wiping, picking, pricking just shooting and it shot each and every time.
 
ebiggs said:
I was shooting my new creation today and the conditions were as bad as you would want.
89 degrees and 95% humidity but I didn’t have any problems with 4f GOEX fouling the pan. I am just not understanding what to make of this. One time it fouls and another time it doesn’t.

No wiping, picking, pricking just shooting and it shot each and every time.

Amazing that you didn't have any trouble with it in that higher humidity.

4f is a very fine granulation and will absorb moisture much faster than 3f. BUT what will really absorb moisture quickly is the fouling it leaves behind after a few shots. That fouling will turn muddy much faster than the powder itself. Wiping out the pan with a spit patch eliminates the problem. But as the old saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Must have a good seal on your pan. I personally use 3f as both my prime and load and have never had a problem with mud in the pan either. Humidity can get pretty brutal here in Virginia too.

twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
 
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