Mountain rifle trigger help

[eodcoduto]

I am building a CVA mountain rifle kit and I’m having trouble with the triggers. Out of the stock they operate as they should. When in the stock and shimmed to the point they are flush with the stock they will both set and fire with the lock not cocked. Once the lock is cocked the rear trigger will not set and the front is iffy. If I shim them out 1/8” past the wood I can get the rear to set. The triggers and the stock’s curve are on a different radius but other than that I’m stuck. Any help is appreciated.

 

[dave951]

Check to see if the inletting is deep enough to clear the moving parts of the trigger and lock.

 

[sb 54 cal.]

check the sear bar for obstruction.

 

[eodcoduto]

Ill pack some clay in it to check my tolerances.

 

[necchi]

This is an odd situation,, it's opposite of the common problem with these,, usually the triggers cams will interfere with the lock being able to reach full cock.
Are you sure you have the right triggers?
Try making a different observation,, the lock mortise has a hole/window in it for the lock sear bar. Leave the lock out and install the triggers,, then work the triggers while observing how the trigger cams move in that window.
It's odd that the rear won't set(?), Does the front trigger have it's wire spring in place properly?

 

[eodcoduto]

So the sear bar is hitting the first trigger bar and binding the triggers when you try to set the rear trigger. I'll keep measuring but I don't see how to get the clearance I need without moving the lock, which would require a ton of work.

 

[eodcoduto]

Here is what I am working with. The sharpie mark in the window is the upper limit of travel for the front trigger bar when setting the rear trigger. The pencil marks are 1/2 and full cock on the sear pin for the lock. The distance mismatch is huge.

 

[sb 54 cal.]

Wait till you get other replies but u will need to get more clearance between sear and triggers. Either trim bottom of sear bar and make triggers set flush with wood or move rear of lock up or both.

 

[eodcoduto]

I put the triggers in a vice and pressed them to match the curve of the stock, this made some difference but not enough. I will file and fit until something works. The front trigger will work on its own, its just a heavy pull. I'm bidding on a back action 16 gauge so that may take precedence.

 

[necchi]

Good photo's.
Can you share another?
"Set" the triggers, install them, and show a photo of that sear window with your marks visible.
The front trigger bar never needs to be at it's upper limit, it has to be below the cocked position of the sear arm, always.
(it can make contact, but just contact, no pressure)
There are 4 different user adjustment screws with the CVA/Traditions double trigger/bridled lock system.
3 on the trigger and 1 on the lock
Please don't file or bend anymore till we have a chance to work through this.
It's the same when ALL Double Lever Double Set triggers are used in a "set" position, the front bar never touches the sear,, the front releases the spring driven rear bar into the sear. The spring driven rear bar is the reason for the double triggers.
The leaf spring tension and/or the leaf spring stop screw may be out of adjustment, lending the set triggers useless,,

 

[Gtrubicon]

Here is what I am working with. The sharpie mark in the window is the upper limit of travel for the front trigger bar when setting the rear trigger. The pencil marks are 1/2 and full cock on the sear pin for the lock. The distance mismatch is huge. View attachment 173331View attachment 173332View attachment 173333View attachment 173334View attachment 173335View attachment 173330

The picture showing the trigger in the stock, that trigger inlet is way to deep. Shim it out as far as you can. I had to do the same thing on both of my cva mountain rifles.

 

[necchi]

The picture showing the trigger in the stock, that trigger inlet is way to deep.

Nah, that's actually sittin there pretty good, you have to remember the trigger guard set's in there too.
@eodcoduto has found bargain second hand items,, and that's tough sometimes,, ya just don't know how they where set up by the previous owners

 

[dragnetbill]

You did not mention whether you have the kit instructions booklet or not; for what it is worth, step 9 in the instructions says that you need to make a gouge on the front left hand side of the seating shelf for the trigger(s) plate to accomodate the thin wire spring allowing it complete freedom of movement. Put some kind of marking compound (lip stick) on the wire and seat the trigger plate; remove and the compound will show you where/if there is unwanted contact that could bind the spring.

 

[Erwan]

I think the sole of your stecher is too tight and is touching the sear tail too soon. If you loosen the sole of the stecher and lower it, the defect should disappear...
I've had this problem with several kit guns: not enough room between the stecher and the sear tail.
As solutions, I found most of the time only to wedge under the sole of the stecher with a small sheet of brass or, if the defect is minimal: bend the sear tail upwards a little...
The defect is more often the opposite, but both cases occur on the kits...
This is sometimes a recurring problem on kits of some brands, as (as an example), on the Traditions/Ardesa kits...

That's all I see in your problem, I saw it too on a Tryon Pedersoli...

 

[eodcoduto]

I do not have the instructions, if someone has a pdf of them I’d take it.

 

[Red Owl]

If the triggers work okay outside the stock then in MOST instances the triggers are set too deeply into the stock- it is a common problem with that rifle. What puzzles me is I take it you have shimmed the triggers - that should have worked. Try smoking the parts and see if some spot of wood is interfering.

 

[Gtrubicon]

Here is how my triggers sit in relation to the stock. I had to shim the trigger out and file the sear a little bit to get it to work properly. I just recently did this because I put an L&R lock on the rifle. I did relieve some of the stock area where the sear fits through to the triggers. I’m very pleased with how it works now. I used a small screw under the forward end of the trigger as the shim, so I can adjust up or down easily if needed.

 

[dragnetbill]

I will try to attach photos of the instructions.

 

[renegadehunter]

I had the exact same problem with a CVA Mountain Rifle.
It was a kit put together by my wife's grandpa. He did it mainly for the fun of it and then it was hung on the wall and never fired. He gave it to his son-in-law, who then noticed it wasn't working right and he brought it to me since they know I enjoy muzzleloaders.
It would hold full cock, barely, the set trigger wouldn't set unless I held forward on the front trigger, and it took very little pressure on the hammer for it to slip and drop to the nipple. I did some research and I believe even posted a thread here (I did, see below). Everyone said it was a common problem and the fix was to shim them.
Here is that thread. Need help with CVA Mountain rifle lock

I used the fix in post #7. It took some messing around to get the screw height adjusted correctly, but worked great.

 

[eodcoduto]

I will try to attach photos of the instructions.

Thank you, I'll read these first for a change and see what I can learn!