Mounting a Flint

[Onojutta]

I use leather cut from an inexpensive welding apron from Harbor Freight. The leather is very soft and grips the flint well. I’ve also used leather from leather work gloves but find that the softer leather of the apron compresses better and gets a better grip. Never had one come loose yet.

 

[Cap'n Ball]

I tried lead and fount that it had to be re-tightened frequently. Lead is very ductile and has very low elasticity. Every shot is a hammer blow thining the lead and forcing lead out of the jaw around the edges. Not much, but it seemed that it was loose in just a couple of shots. Both my flinters are 45s and I have been told that lead is good for the big muskets, but you want leather for the smaller guns. I haven't played with the big locks with big jaws clamping big flints, but my little rocks do well with leather.

 

[Cowboy]

Tried both. Like soft leather of the right thickness.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[FishDFly]

Soft leather is best from what I have found for myself.

I inherited a large garbage bag of deer and elk hides. I have found elk works better than whitetail deer.

I go to "The Container Store", they have all sorts of plastic boxes that can be used for storing ML stuff. A trip there is worth the effort.

I found a small box there with 5 slots. Inside it are the following flints: French Amber, Black English 5/8, Black English 1/2-5/8 and Rich Pierce 5/8. and last compartment is pre-cut leathers and a couple of wood dry fire flints.. In each flint compartment are 2 pre--glued flints. Top of each compartment is labeled with a tape writer.

When I go to a match I am prepared with flints for each of my pistols and do not have to dig around in my shooting box looking for flints. Other advantage, I know easily how many flints I have on hand at any time..

 

[toot]

OK! what was used back in the days too hold the flint in the jaws? both MILITARY AND CIVILIAN? what ever they used would be correct, for the weapon that is in use by them, don't you? not what is used now / modern times. I say if what ever you use and are comfortable with and it floats your boat, then by all means go for it. I have some guns that I use leather on & some that I use lead on. I pound out a 75 CAL musket ball into a flattened shape and use it. I have read that is what some of the troupe's did in the REVOLITION.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

Leather

 

[Cpt Flint]

I like the idea of gluing the leather to the flint. Come to think of it, the best leather that I have used is elk. I broke a super flint once by over tightening the top jaw.
It split into two big pieces. I stuck it back together with JB weld, glued a thin piece of lead over it and glued the leather over that. I put it back in the lock and tightened the top jaw. It went right on sparking. That's the only time that I used lead and won't use it again.

 

[Griz44Mag]

I was afield hunting once and broke a flint. I did not stop to change it immediately and when I did I had lost the leather.
I did not have a new leather with me so I folded up 2 cleaning patches and mounted the flint.
Worked as well as the leather and at the next flint change several months later, I changed it out to a leather. (yes - it was charred some)
Necessity is the mother of invention, it worked so keep in mind, all you are doing is soft binding the flint to keep from breaking it.

 

[flntlokr]

Garment weight leather with a centre hole punched as mentioned before. No need to oil or otherwise mess with them; they don't last very long. The Jaw screws on some locks are too long, and prevent the jaw from tightening on a thin flint/leather combo. I have shortened a couple of them in order to be able to grab well on pretty much any flint. I don't like thick leathers because they compress in the jaw and get loose, necessitating re-tightening the jaw several times thru the life of a flint. I use a horseshoe nail as a pick, and it also works to make the jaw screw into a wing-nut. saves digging out the turnscrew.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

I started with leather in my GPR rifle because that's what I thought folks used. I then tried lead after reading about that idea, so I flattened out a round ball, and that worked equally as well, so that's what's in there now. I have since tried lead on a Pendrsoli Kentucky pistol and it really didn't like that lead wrap.... my flints kept breaking down. I switched to leather and a smaller width flint and seem to have no more problems. Could have been the leather or the different flint size, but I tend to think it was the leather just because of the mechanics of it all. I'm sticking with leather on the pistol, and will probably switch back to leather on the rifle too, given all that I have read here.

 

[oldwood]

Had little luck w/sheet lead. Flint comes loose . Very bothersome. Waste not want not........Have made some very good flint leathers from a tongue of an old shoe , and old wallet leather. Holds tight 'til I want to change the flint. ..............oldwood

 

[toot]

the BRITISH soldiers were issued a lead pre cut out piece of the same for there FIRE LOCKS, not leather. it was standard issue.

 

[JCKelly]

Leather for shooting.
Lead for display of an original flint musket, unless it has a wooden driver in the ****. Not at all nice to "dry fire" a flint lock.

 

[FishDFly]

"Not at all nice to "dry fire" a flint lock."

You can make a wood flint and dry fire to your hearts content and it does not hurt a thing.

Dry firing helps a person to practice their "follow thru". Dry firing also allows you to watch the sights as the **** falls.

Dry firing will help you with your shooting and also help you learn your flintlock by handling it more often.

Great part of dry firing, you don't have to clean it when you get through.

 

[toot]

no reply to what BRITISH soldiers were issued? I guess no one has any knoweledge of just what was issued to them? strange that all of the original ones in museums have lead in the jaws?? must have been a reason why? I don't think that the museums personal did it to them?

 

[Bob McBride]

no reply to what BRITISH soldiers were issued? I guess no one has any knoweledge of just what was issued to them? strange that all of the original ones in museums have lead in the jaws?? must have been a reason why? I don't think that the museums personal did it to them?

Thats where the idea for putting lead in cocks come from and it is a fine option on one of those huge martial locks. No problem at all. Dainty longrifle locks on the other hand just hit too hard with lead, stressing the **** and gouging the frizzen. Armies tend to get their ephemera from what’s already on the supply wagon, and lead was in good supply. It was still inferior to leather but on hand and it sufficed.

 

[toot]

ROGER THAT!

 

[zneufeld]

Unfortunately, I'm a city boy (life goal to make some money and buy some rural land). I've never had to think about where to get leather. My GPR came with some crappy naugahyde (those poor naugas!).

Where do y'all get your leather?

 

[Sparkitoff]

I'd ask the lock manufacturer if possible. One name brand lock supposedly warned against lead and would not warranty the lock if lead was used. The info was posted here and I think it was Chambers but I can't swear to that. I asked L&R what he thought and he said he liked thin lead but to try both and see if one seemed faster. I did and I use lead in that lock. When I use leather, I have found goat skin or **** skin (tanned of course) are pliable and tend to hold the flint in the **** easier and longer than cowhide leather.

 

[hanshi]

As for one or the other it probably doesn't matter all that much as long as one gets good sparking and the warranty isn't voided. I tried lead on a number of occasions and got good sparking. Trouble was that nothing I did kept the flint from loosening after just a few shots. I use whatever leather comes along from tanned deer hide to thicker scrap leather. I have a box of scrap leather so don't worry about running out. Leather, or something similar, can be found from various items around the home.