Muzzle Velocity question

[TFoley]

Dave and all,

Bears are fun...this picture Tree Stand hunting for Deer a few years back(didn't have a Bear tag)

Jeez, what regular spoilblanket you turned out to be.

He only wanted to share a sammidge.

Take care of the bears. One day there will be only two left, and I bet, the way things are going on this particular planet, that they are called Chet and Dave.

tac

 

[Davemuzz]

Since shooting stout loads is being contemplated, maybe the stock can be designed to be able to hold some extra added weight in places to help with the recoil and muzzle rise.

Good point. The wood is going to extend all the way to the end of the barrel so I will have some "beef" to work with. And your idea sounds better than my thoughts of just tyin a red brick to the muzzle. :shocked2: :grin:

 

[Davemuzz]

And hey Handi.......I don't know why you didn't consider just sticking down one of your boots (and yes...with your foot in it!).

After all, you do have two feet! That poor bear looked a bit hungry. Instead of stickin him with a sharp arrow....you could have just given him a foot to chew on. I'm sure he wouldn't have chewed the whole thing. A few toes or so. :youcrazy:

Just a thought for the next time!!!

Dave

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

as to the wood grips splitting" 'that should not be a problem at all with correct wood selection and stock/grip design.
Mike S.

I've had this scar across my palm since a pistol stock split in my hand in 1970, that's why I worry about it. Cracked stocks are by far the most common problem reported with the Lyman Plains Pistol and I've seen many Kentucky types with cracked stocks in the grip area. In MY hand I don't trust heavy recoiling loads from a wood stocked pistol.

OUCH!

That's why I stick to revolvers!

I'm not a wood worker, but IF I was the "G-C" on this project, and a "Magnum Pistol" was the goal, I would try to find the hardest wood and/or make sure to not use the grain in the wood like T/C did to manufacture the Patriot pistol line. Starting with a block of wood with the grain going 90 degrees from the recoil (no matter which wood it is) would take some of the stresses off of the weakest area in the design, that is around the end of the barrel/under the lock.

Perhaps a post on the Gunbuilder's Forum is in order.....

Wish I could be of more help!

That is a nasty looking scar!

Dave
S&W Model 29 Owner for 30 years and counting

 

[Dphar]

Dave: If it were my choice, I'd try the Lee REAL bullet before I'd do the Hornady PAs. It was so hard to pound that PA conical down the carbine's 1-48 barrel that I was unsure whether or not I had it properly seated. I tied it to a tree and fired it with a long string - there was no way a puller would take it out and CO2 didn't work. Gun survived with no damage.
The Lee slugs are more forgiving.
Pete

Pounding lead slugs upsets them to a tight fit every whack. This should not needed once started.
Twist will make no difference.
There is nothing I can think of in the east that a 50 caliber round ball will not kill reliably *if used right*. Moose would be a little big, elk is doable. But I would prefer use a larger ball for either one. 62 or bigger being preferred.
If you need more power you need a bigger ball. A ball of equal weight will kill better than a conical. This has been well known for a long time.

See "The Sporting Rifle and Its Projectiles" by James Forsythe. Its downloadable from Google Books. It gives a very good explanation of why the bullet never caught in MLs on with anyone but LR shooters and some gunmakers who also never used them for anything but shooting holes in paper.
This book should be required reading for anyone who wants to hunt with a ML.

Sir Samuel Baker's quote on using elongated bullets in his "Devil Stopper" ML for African Elephant is very enlightening.
You can down load many of Bakers books from Google as well.

Dan

 

[Dphar]

as to the wood grips splitting" 'that should not be a problem at all with correct wood selection and stock/grip design.
Mike S.

I've had this scar across my palm since a pistol stock split in my hand in 1970, that's why I worry about it. Cracked stocks are by far the most common problem reported with the Lyman Plains Pistol and I've seen many Kentucky types with cracked stocks in the grip area. In MY hand I don't trust heavy recoiling loads from a wood stocked pistol.

OUCH!

That's why I stick to revolvers!

I'm not a wood worker, but IF I was the "G-C" on this project, and a "Magnum Pistol" was the goal, I would try to find the hardest wood and/or make sure to not use the grain in the wood like T/C did to manufacture the Patriot pistol line. Starting with a block of wood with the grain going 90 degrees from the recoil (no matter which wood it is) would take some of the stresses off of the weakest area in the design, that is around the end of the barrel/under the lock.

Perhaps a post on the Gunbuilder's Forum is in order.....

Wish I could be of more help!

That is a nasty looking scar!

Dave
S&W Model 29 Owner for 30 years and counting

90 degrees to recoil will result is it breaking at the weakest point, the forend. A cross grained forend is extremely fragile.
I guess plank sawed wood would do OK.
But I have most with quarter sawn and never seen this happen.
But one never knows what flaws might be present in the wood.
One can always drill under the tang down the grip 2/3 of the way and glue in a piece of 1/4" piano wire.

Dan

 

[poordevil]

I have the Lyman Plans Pistol in .54. I have shot 60 grs 3FFFg and a 530 round ball. The recoil is Brisk, but for me, not sever. I would think at pistol range it would take whatever you wanted to shoot with it.


P

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Thanks--I told ya I was no woodworkin kind of guy! Just don't want the thing to splinter into the shooter's hand. I've seen plenty of cracked stocks in Patriots! Seems to crack by the lock cause there's so little wood there.

 

[Davemuzz]

FWIW, the wood for the stock is a very nice piece of Wavy Walnut that I picked out at one of my local specialty wood places.

I've worked with walnut before. It's a very hard wood, yet forgiving to work with.

The piano wire is an idea that I hadn't thought of. I'll give that some consideration as it would be fairly easy to drill a few long holes in the grip area of the stock, shoot some glue down the holes, then run the piano wire down the hole. The hole can be covered easy enough with either a plug, or enough of a mix of stained chips 'n glue.

Again, either that or an inlayed piece of blacked metal that wraps down the back of the grip.

Good idea with the piano wire!!! I've got to give that some thought!! :hatsoff:

Dave

 

[Dphar]

FWIW, the wood for the stock is a very nice piece of Wavy Walnut that I picked out at one of my local specialty wood places.

I've worked with walnut before. It's a very hard wood, yet forgiving to work with.

The piano wire is an idea that I hadn't thought of. I'll give that some consideration as it would be fairly easy to drill a few long holes in the grip area of the stock, shoot some glue down the holes, then run the piano wire down the hole. The hole can be covered easy enough with either a plug, or enough of a mix of stained chips 'n glue.

Again, either that or an inlayed piece of blacked metal that wraps down the back of the grip.

Good idea with the piano wire!!! I've got to give that some thought!! :hatsoff:

Dave

One piece of 1/4" (its spring temper and hard to cut BTW) will give all the support needed.
Pour some red box acra-glas in the 1/32"oversized hole then slide the degreased and slightly roughened rod in then slowly add more acra-glas as needed. To fill the hole. This needs to be done after the barrel is installed. Carefully wax (Johnsons paste floor) any metal that might contact the glas then reinstall the barrel. Otherwise you will have to get the glas out of the inletting later.
DO NOT use cheap epoxy (regardless of price) from Walmart or hobby stores. Some of this stuff is too brittle.
Rod should be just slightly shorter than the hole.
You can dye the acra-glas if you feel its necessary.
You will likely need a long drill bit too.
Dan

 

[Dphar]

Make sure the rod will not interfere with any screws, etc.

Dan

 

[Davemuzz]

10-4. I've done bedding with Davcon on a few Rifles before. I've used shoe polish as the release agent. You have to think of everything when you do this.....'cause as you well know, if you don't think of everything.....everything will let you know when you screwed up!!

Dave

 

[arcticap]

A brass ramrod also adds some weight to the barrel.

 

[Oldnamvet]

as to the wood grips splitting" 'that should not be a problem at all with correct wood selection and stock/grip design.
Mike S.

I've had this scar across my palm since a pistol stock split in my hand in 1970, that's why I worry about it. Cracked stocks are by far the most common problem reported with the Lyman Plains Pistol and I've seen many Kentucky types with cracked stocks in the grip area. In MY hand I don't trust heavy recoiling loads from a wood stocked pistol.

If you are making your own stock from scratch, you could always laminate thicknesses of wood, alternating the grain direction to make up the stock wood. Not exactly PC but if it would keep me from collecting a scar like that, I'd be all for it.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Coyote" 'that wound looks NASTY. More than just your average splinter OUCH!!!
Mike S.

It was nasty, the tang went deeply into my hand and of course it was a "blunt trauma" kind of wound that doesn't heel quickly. My hand went immediatly numb but when it "thawed out" I was really sorry. It doesn't bother me at all now.

 

[Handy]

Just didn't feel like being the meat between the bread that day Tac :grin:

Mike S.