My 1st Ruger Old Army

[Smokerr]

Definitely let us know who lines it.

Parts are iffy for the ROA so you never know when a recommendation is needed.

Goons had at least a few years back a real issue with taking money and not getting the work out in a timely manner. Not sure if that changed.

 

[45D]

Definitely let us know who lines it.

Parts are iffy for the ROA so you never know when a recommendation is needed.

Goons had at least a few years back a real issue with taking money and not getting the work out in a timely manner. Not sure if that changed.

Well, that won't be a problem since I don't do liners.
As far as "cheap shots" go, "taking" money sounds really good. It's like I went and "got" it. Truth is, it gets sent to me either along with the revolver, half or when I send the revolver back . . . whatever the customer wants to do.
As far as "timely" goes, it depends on how bad the "wreck" is, if parts need to be made or parts availability. When loose arbors show up they get fixed at no cost whether the customer knows about it or not. I can't do "spec" work on wobbly revolvers.
Obviously new revolvers are easier to work on than used. And so it goes . . .

Mike

 

[Juice Jaws]

Wish I had bought a new one back in the day. Came close a few times.

I brought a new one when they first came out I think I paid less than a hundred dollars for it. Sold it a few years later, one of my many mistakes in life.

 

[Bad Karma]

Interesting information, tbe barrel I was looking at was 1 in 12. Thank you! I love those Centennial models, I have a Single Six in stainless.



I agree his wisdom is sound.

To be honest I'm going to shoot it, we have a 3 day weekend coming up and I think I'll take advantage of it. It's not swollen much or I would have it magnafluxed. Used to do magnaflux in automotive to find cracks in cylinder heads. If it doesn't shoot well and it sounds like it might actually shoot well, but if it doesn't, I'm going to look into the liner 1st. Barrel replacement as a last ditch effort, only if it doesn't shoot or cannot be lined.

If you do send it to be lined, ask Bobby Hoyt about progressive rifling. I was told he used to do that for barrels he provided to Charlie Hahn. Accuracy and velocity are the chief reasons for doing so.

 

[Smokerr]

Well, that won't be a problem since I don't do liners.
As far as "cheap shots" go, "taking" money sounds really good. It's like I went and "got" it. Truth is, it gets sent to me either along with the revolver, half or when I send the revolver back . . . whatever the customer wants to do.
As far as "timely" goes, it depends on how bad the "wreck" is, if parts need to be made or parts availability. When loose arbors show up they get fixed at no cost whether the customer knows about it or not. I can't do "spec" work on wobbly revolvers.
Obviously new revolvers are easier to work on than used. And so it goes . . .

Mike

Mike, My apologies. I did not know you were that Mike and its always hard to get the real story off comments.

I have seen tire reports that said they were treacherous for a given mfg and type. I had those tires and it was, wow, you are nuts (and can't drive either)

I am sorting through who is a go to and who to avoid.

I got one barrel for a rifle from a guy people swore by (he rifled the blanks). I had to beat on him via his sales link guy to get the barrel and it was the worst shooting barrel I ever got.

I do have the ROA that has the bolt timing issue at half cock I am thinking about trying to get fixed. Working around it with a wooden dowel behind the hammer, it was fine until I shot it. Not a huge issue but annoying.

 

[45D]

Mike, My apologies. I did not know you were that Mike and its always hard to get the real story off comments.

I have seen tire reports that said they were treacherous for a given mfg and type. I had those tires and it was, wow, you are nuts (and can't drive either)

I am sorting through who is a go to and who to avoid.

I got one barrel for a rifle from a guy people swore by (he rifled the blanks). I had to beat on him via his sales link guy to get the barrel and it was the worst shooting barrel I ever got.

I do have the ROA that has the bolt timing issue at half cock I am thinking about trying to get fixed. Working around it with a wooden dowel behind the hammer, it was fine until I shot it. Not a huge issue but annoying.

That's ok. I can edit after you

 

[M. De Land]

Definitely let us know who lines it.

Parts are iffy for the ROA so you never know when a recommendation is needed.

Goons had at least a few years back a real issue with taking money and not getting the work out in a timely manner. Not sure if that changed.

I've lined quite a few rifle barrels but never a revolver barrel and am not sure it is possible on the ROA as they get pretty thin over the threads. I've re-barreled revolvers and that is not difficult lathe work.
The loading lever lug fabrication and install shouldn't be much of an issue with a dovetail cut. I think they are brazed on the ROA's though like the front sight lug.
I will check my .45 Colt Biesley Ruger barrel dimensions and see if they match up with the ROA.
An other barrel source I just thought of and is what I would probably do if I couldn't find a take off Ruger barrel is cut, thread and turn down a rifle barrel in .45 cal as most in .45-70 are 18 to 20 pitch rifling and it wouldn't be much work to thread one up, cut a couple of dovetails for front sight and loading lever lug to fit a ROA.

 

[waarp8nt]

I've lined quite a few rifle barrels but never a revolver barrel and am not sure it is possible on the ROA as they get pretty thin over the threads. I've re-barreled revolvers and that is not difficult lathe work.

Having enough barrel to reline is certainly a concern.

I'm on the email waiting list at Chaszel for a barrel blank. They have a non-chambered option. Specs are as follows;

 

[M. De Land]

Having enough barrel to reline is certainly a concern.

I'm on the email waiting list at Chaszel for a barrel blank. They have a non-chambered option. Specs are as follows;

View attachment 293280

I'd just use any decent .45 cal take off rifle barrel in 18-20 pitch rifling. You won't need a chamber only the rifled section which can be easily turned to ROA profile , threaded and qualified.
Talk to your local gunsmith as he may very likely have a take off rifle barrel standing in the corner somewhere.
I had one ( Octagon Browning Highwall) in my left over barrel pile about two years ago that I turned, chambered to .45-70 and re-threaded to fit a Trapdoor Springfield. It's still going strong as far as I know.

 

[Smokerr]

That's ok. I can edit after you

Or wipe me out entirely!

 

[waarp8nt]

An other barrel source I just thought of and is what I would probably do if I couldn't find a take off Ruger barrel is cut, thread and turn down a rifle barrel in .45 cal as most in .45-70 are 18 to 20 pitch rifling and it wouldn't be much work to thread one up, cut a couple of dovetails for front sight and loading lever lug to fit a ROA.

I'd just use any decent .45 cal take off rifle barrel in 18-20 pitch rifling. You won't need a chamber only the rifled section which can be easily turned to ROA profile , threaded and qualified.

My friend, I can tell by your post that your a more accomplished machinist than me. I would turn the barrel to proper diameter and thread with a die. I could probably pull that off on the Southbend 9" lathe. My concern with using a rifle barrel and I'm going off of memory here; Pistol barrels in .45 cal shoot .452 bullets and rifle barrels, like the 45/70 are designed to shoot.458 bullets. Would there be diminished accuracy due to the barrel being over-bored?

 

[Bad Karma]

I'd just use any decent .45 cal take off rifle barrel in 18-20 pitch rifling. You won't need a chamber only the rifled section which can be easily turned to ROA profile , threaded and qualified.
Talk to your local gunsmith as he may very likely have a take off rifle barrel standing in the corner somewhere.
I had one ( Octagon Browning Highwall) in my left over barrel pile about two years ago that I turned, chambered to .45-70 and re-threaded to fit a Trapdoor Springfield. It's still going strong as far as I know.

One of my TC New Englanders wears what was once a .45-70 barrel. I don’t know what it was originally supposed to fit but its dimensions were close enough to provide a 22” fast twist New Englander. I also have a Badger barreled .40/.408 fitted with a Hawken breech plug. We have options. (Hmmmm… a 40 Ruger Old Army?)

 

[45D]

Or wipe me out entirely!

It's OK, we're out of "edit" time anyway. You apologized and that's good enough for me .

 

[Dcrockett]

One of mine has a nine mm barrel , cylinders were then plugged and drilled to match. Much softer shooting and not as front heavy. It uses .360 balls.

 

[M. De Land]

My friend, I can tell by your post that your a more accomplished machinist than me. I would turn the barrel to proper diameter and thread with a die. I could probably pull that off on the Southbend 9" lathe. My concern with using a rifle barrel and I'm going off of memory here; Pistol barrels in .45 cal shoot .452 bullets and rifle barrels, like the 45/70 are designed to shoot.458 bullets. Would there be diminished accuracy due to the barrel being over-bored?

All one need do is ream the chamber mouths up .006 to fit the .458 groove which is not much of a deal with a mill or drill press, set of plug gauges and depth plug. Dead center is found with the plug gauge and x-y travel axis on a mill table. You know your dead nuts centered when you get the same amount of metal removed circumferential-ly in each chamber.
I also like to pick up used small caliber mold blocks at gun shows and simply lathe bore them out to the new bullet shape and diameter needed. I usually pick them up for 10 bucks and they already have the vent lines cut and sprue plates affixed.

 

[M. De Land]

One of my TC New Englanders wears what was once a .45-70 barrel. I don’t know what it was originally supposed to fit but its dimensions were close enough to provide a 22” fast twist New Englander. I also have a Badger barreled .40/.408 fitted with a Hawken breech plug. We have options. (Hmmmm… a 40 Ruger Old Army?)

Huh, never lined cylinder chambers but can't think just now why it couldn't be done.

 

[waarp8nt]

All one need do is ream the chamber mouths up .006 to fit the .458 groove which is not much of a deal with a mill or drill press, set of plug gauges and depth plug. Dead center is found with the plug gauge and x-y travel axis on a mill table. You know your dead nuts centered when you get the same amount of metal removed circumferential-ly in each chamber.

I've personally never completed such a task, however I did watch a buddy of mine, William "Bill" Gentry repair a Ruger Blackhawk cylinder that was under dimension using the method you described. It worked great and once completed the accuracy imporoved greatly.

I also like to pick up used small caliber mold blocks at gun shows and simply lathe bore them out to the new bullet shape and diameter needed. I usually pick them up for 10 bucks and they already have the vent lines cut and sprue plates affixed.

Smart, very smart!

 

[TechMoron]

Didn't have any natural light by the time I got off work and finished working on the house. I tried to get a picture with a work light on a shelf in an attempt to mimic the window with natural light. I can see it, but then again I know the location of the bulge. Look by the INC. stamping on barrel.

I tried an old trick I was taught at the St. Louis Chrysler Training Center (AKA the parts warehouse) next to McDonnell Douglas just off McDonnell Blvd. The trick was taught to us mechanics as a quick check to verify a valve was straight before we took the time to grind it. Use the tips of your fingers and run then down the lenght of the barrel. Any difference, bend, bulge or otherwise is easily felt. I later learned this method was used in some manufacturing facilities during WWII. I can take a picture later with my calipers if anyone is interested.

View attachment 292436

View attachment 292437

View attachment 292438

Since you really can’t see the ‘bulge’ I’d have the barrel re-lined & keep it all “original”.

 

[M. De Land]

Since you really can’t see the ‘bulge’ I’d have the barrel re-lined & keep it all “original”.

I haven't spec-ed it out but feel the liner is going to have to be at least (.062) 1/16th" thick under the forcing cone and threads to safely hold smokeless pressure from bulging the barrel should a conversion cylinder ever be used.
I haven't spec-ed out if the ROA original barrel shank OD is thick enough in the threaded shank area to house a liner of this thickness and OD.

 

[TechMoron]

One of the many “One that got aways” on my list is the stainless Bi-Centennial Old Army I got from my brother for 200 bucks. Shot a bunch of bullets cast from the Lee mould designed for the Old Army. Then bought the ‘accessory’ cylinder for it & shot one box of Winchester cowboy loads in 45Colt. And like so many other times, found something I thought I wanted more & sold the Ruger to finance it.