My experience with Walker cylinder gap and some other notes.

[cw1873]

Yes. I'm pretty sure most folks that can read these forums can understand how important a sound and repeatable foundation/support mechanism is paramount and fundamental to accuracy!! That is precisely the WHY the arbor length situation is the MOST important feature of the open top design!! (and also why the wedge being tight (not it's position) is important!).
The reason I put an adjustable "WEDGE BEARING" is two fold. 1. to allow for mechanical wear from repeated removal/ insertion and 2. For YOUR preference as to "where" you want it to be.
There you go !!

Mike

I've not seen a wedge bearing before, do you have a picture you can post or link to?

 

[45D]

Yes, here's a pic.

As you can see, the screw is below the plane of the end of the arbor. So many people look at this and get the false assumption that THIS is how the arbor length correction is done . . . it is not. The other end of the screw is flat and polished and can be extended into the wedge slot and at that point becomes the surface contact for the wedge.

After fitting the spacer and securing it in the barrel assembly (THE arbor length correction), the wedge bearing can then be set to position the wedge as if new or anywhere the owner wants.
Here's the Bearing end of the screw.

Just to be clear, here is THE arbor length fix . . . the spacer:

As I said, the wedge can be "custom" positioned. Here's my "captured" wedge. The spring is mounted on the opposite end which allows it to spring up behind the wedge screw head. That traps it in place so that it can't loosen . . . ever!! lol!!

You insert:

Then tighten the wedge screw which pushes the spring down :

A couple of final whacks with the hammer and the spring pops up behind the screw head :

And there ya go!! A captured wedge!!

I wanted minimal protrusion on both sides. That would give me a "clean" side so something else could be mounted without any problems.

Mike

 

[hawkeye2]

Mike thanks for the fine and detailed photos of your modifications. They ought to give everyone a clear idea of what you are doing there.

 

[CyrusP]

“So something else could be mounted”

Could you please explain that?

Excellent write up! Thank you!

 

[hawkeye2]

Ejector assembly

 

[CyrusP]

Ejector assembly

Ahhhhh! Of course! Thanks!

I was thinking mount for night vision.

 

[45D]

Yes Hawkeye2, exactly right!!

CyrusP, night vision is definitely an option!! Early on I saw my first Red Dot sight . . . on a Walker of all things!!


Mike

 

[M. De Land]

M.De Land, it's incredible that someone so "educated" and with such a willingness to learn still can't understand why 2 assemblies that can't move isn't a fundamentally better platform for accuracy as well as durability than 2 assemblies that CAN move!! Fascinating!!!!!
Too bad the designers didn't have you around to explain their idiocy of design! Every reproduction made save for Pietta of late as been wrong so you'll side with any of them rather than the actual creator and those that corrected their product! Maybe it's just too impossible to think that "those" engineers could actually understand their own design better than you can ?!! My, my . . .

By the way Ed C. , the wedge position doesn't matter a whit!!! It only works if it's tight! (The revolver doesn't know the wedge's position . . . shhhhhhh. Lol!!!) You are on the right track!!

Mike

Oh, they are still moving Mike no matter how hard you jam them together. An open top gun will flex even if the joint at arbors end were welded! Odd you cannot seem to grasp what is actually happening here!

!

 

[45D]

Oh, they are still moving Mike no matter how hard you jam them together. An open top gun will flex even if the joint at arbors end were welded! Odd you cannot seem to grasp what is actually happening here!

!

Of course they do (but not like yours!)!! The difference is mine move less and the energy is spread over the whole revolver because of a solid connection (transfer). Mine also return to the same position from shot to shot and will be the same after each disassembly and reassembly ( the wedge can't be put in too deep!) My endshake remains the same as well which increases efficiency, consistency and makes for a clean revolver after an extended range trip (competition shooters appreciate that was well). A close endshake also keeps the cylinder in check so as not to beat the F.C. and recoil shield. In other words, mine just behave better than yours.
If you understand that they move, it makes it even more a head scratcher as to why you don't want to make them at least as "solid" as the originals were. They knew it, that's why the design is what it is . . .

If your wedge is the "main connection" you have a "sick" open top.

Mike

 

[45D]

I've gotta think (at this point) there are 2 bolt main guys, and there are 4 bolt main guys . . .

Mike

 

[cw1873]

That's a new one for me, but I understand what you're doing there. Thanks for the pics.

I'm option C, no bearing caps, split crankcase.

 

[45D]

That's a new one for me, but I understand what you're doing there. Thanks for the pics.

I'm option C, no bearing caps, split crankcase.

Haaaaaa! 4 or 6 ?

Mike

 

[TrapperDude]

I've gotta think (at this point) there are 2 bolt main guys, and there are 4 bolt main guys . . .

Mike

Come on, man! Everybody knows that you'll launch your crankshaft down into the oil pan if you go with a two-bolt main!

 

[M. De Land]

I've gotta think (at this point) there are 2 bolt main guys, and there are 4 bolt main guys . . .

Mike

Well then there should be tens of thousands of Pietta open top guns that have short arbors blowing the barrels off regularly and none of them can possibly be accurate. Noncense

 

[French Colonial]

I guess if your objective is to shoot teeny tiny groups you could in essence "Hot-rod" a traditional revolver, but when you're done and it only has the appearance of a traditional revolver.........Why didn't you buy a Freedom Arms to start with and convert it to percussion?
I only have interest in 1851's because my Great Grandfather carried one during the uncivil and when you start "improving" one past where he would have carried it you lost me. Coil springs are never going to grace an 1851 in my house.
But you can enjoy them and more power to you. I guess I am a little to old school.

 

[CyrusP]

Coil springs I believe are mostly for those who race these things (CAS crowd) Like those who take 32 Fords and soup them up to drag. They could easily drag race with a super modern carbon fiber shell on a high-tech alloy body frame and save the weight and stability issues, but then it’s not a 32 Ford. Am I going to get one of these Goonerized at some point? 100% yes. My idea is caps not falling into my action jamming things up and optimal performance to ensure a lifetime of trouble free shooting as accurate as possible while maintaining the spirit of the original. To each his own.

 

[CaptainKirk]

It's really easy to pooh-pooh the idea of needing a 'Goonerized' gun (or equivalent) until you actually hold and shoot one. Then you realize the difference and wonder why you waited.

 

[French Colonial]

Sorry guys, I am a traditionalist, I don't pooh-pooh you owning one but I see no need for an open top "race gun"

There is this thing called a 1911........

 

[45D]

Well there ya go, YOU don't see a need . . . so there isn't one . Lol!!!

Mike

 

[45D]

Oddly enough, probably 97% of my customers want the coils ( and about a 1/3 of those are CAS) I tune flats as well ( that's how I learned ) but folks tend to want a reliable, tough as a Ruger ( well tougher, I do ROA's/ 3 screws as well !!) revolver.

I did notice in the list of things Long Hunter does is -arbor length correction!!! Whaaaaat !! Lol

Mike