Talked with Lyman today. They recieved the stock on the 29th but no more info than that. The CSR that I sopke with went to ask the guy in charge but he wasn't in and she didn't want to go through his stuff. She said to give a few more days because there was alot of stuff in his area. I'll check back end of this week first of next.
My GPR build
- Thread starter hilbily
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
longcruise
70 Cal.
Good news! Glad you got that handled.
Finally got the new stock. Have decided that FedEx will never get any of my future shipping business but I got the stock. I have several photos here http://www.flickr.com/photos/bgimage
I didn't want to attach them all so I just put in the link. The trigger mortice is still right on the edge but doesn't break over and the tang mortice is a bit too long but it is straight. I can't decide if I like the grain in this one is better or not. My wife just had a miscarriage so the build has been put on low prioity. I'll keep updating photos as I go. Thanks for looking.
I didn't want to attach them all so I just put in the link. The trigger mortice is still right on the edge but doesn't break over and the tang mortice is a bit too long but it is straight. I can't decide if I like the grain in this one is better or not. My wife just had a miscarriage so the build has been put on low prioity. I'll keep updating photos as I go. Thanks for looking.
Last edited by a moderator:
longcruise
70 Cal.
That's pretty nice wood, IMO. :thumbsup:
I have a kit ready to start as well and the tang inlet is just a bit long. If the parts relationships allow, I'm going to set the barrel and tang back about 3/32". If it don't allow, gonna live with it.
Sorry about the wife's misfortune.
I have a kit ready to start as well and the tang inlet is just a bit long. If the parts relationships allow, I'm going to set the barrel and tang back about 3/32". If it don't allow, gonna live with it.
Sorry about the wife's misfortune.
traceywalker
36 Cal.
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2008
- Messages
- 82
- Reaction score
- 0
Sorry about your loss. My wife and I went through the same thing years ago.
That new walnut stock of yours may be one of the best figured kit stocks I've ever seen.
Built a GPR about two years ago. The resulting feeling of taking your time and making everything exactly the way you want is second to none. My .54 shoots to point of aim at well over 70 yards. I'm not the best shot in the world but the effort of working up my best load / patch and ball combination is almost as satisfying as doing the build itself. Very rewarding all the way around.
Later, consider a Davis "near drop" in trigger and a L&R lock with traditional V spring. Also consider the Dutch Schultz(sp) System. Saved me a bunch of time with concocting the load, patch and lube etc.
Best of luck
Ranger Trace
That new walnut stock of yours may be one of the best figured kit stocks I've ever seen.
Built a GPR about two years ago. The resulting feeling of taking your time and making everything exactly the way you want is second to none. My .54 shoots to point of aim at well over 70 yards. I'm not the best shot in the world but the effort of working up my best load / patch and ball combination is almost as satisfying as doing the build itself. Very rewarding all the way around.
Later, consider a Davis "near drop" in trigger and a L&R lock with traditional V spring. Also consider the Dutch Schultz(sp) System. Saved me a bunch of time with concocting the load, patch and lube etc.
Best of luck
Ranger Trace
One of these days I'll get this thing done. Just wanted to drop in and say I haven't just forgotten. Life has thrown a few curves to us this year and building my GPR has been bumped down a few notches. Things are getting back to normal so maybe in the next month or two I'll get going on it.
Minwax Tung Oil Finish contains Tung Oil. Both Tung Oil and Linseed Oil are varnish when you add dryers. Without dryers they never really dry. I've come to prefer Minwax Tungoil Finish over all others. Follow the directions on the can.
Walnut really should be stained if you want the job to look professional. I'd suggest Laurel Mountain Forge walnut stain.
http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/stain_colors v3.html
Walnut really should be stained if you want the job to look professional. I'd suggest Laurel Mountain Forge walnut stain.
http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/stain_colors v3.html
Last edited by a moderator:
hilbily:
While Mark thinks walnut should be stained I feel I owe it to a builder who's working with walnut to say, before you do any staining but after you have given the stock a good sanding to make it smooth, take your stock and a wet washrag out into the sunlight.
Use the washrag to dampen the wood and look at the colors and grain contrasts.
This wet wood is exactly what the wood will look like after you apply the finishing oils without any stain at all.
If there are light areas then consider staining the wood but I'm betting that your stocks walnut will look great without any stains at all.
IMO, walnut is already so dark that any stains that are added to it will just cover up all of the nice grain pattern and make it look brown or redish brown without any interesting patterns.
While Mark thinks walnut should be stained I feel I owe it to a builder who's working with walnut to say, before you do any staining but after you have given the stock a good sanding to make it smooth, take your stock and a wet washrag out into the sunlight.
Use the washrag to dampen the wood and look at the colors and grain contrasts.
This wet wood is exactly what the wood will look like after you apply the finishing oils without any stain at all.
If there are light areas then consider staining the wood but I'm betting that your stocks walnut will look great without any stains at all.
IMO, walnut is already so dark that any stains that are added to it will just cover up all of the nice grain pattern and make it look brown or redish brown without any interesting patterns.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Ditto in what Zonie said. I stained walnut once, never again!! Take a look at the factory GPR stocks. They are stained and near black with little charachter showing.
And they should be nearly black if you want a period looking finish. If you want a modern looking finish then no stain is needed. Here's a factory Lyman GPR. If I'd felt like stripping it, it would have gotten a coat of walnut analine stain. When the finish cures I may shoot it with flat black paint and steel wool it back.
I guess it all depends on what a person wants.
If they want a rifle that looks like it was made 150-200 years ago with the black oxidized oils then maybe staining walnut would be ok.
If they were re-enacting it is unlikely the gun they would be carrying would have been made 200 years prior to the period they are portraying so a fairly new transparent unoxidized finish would be in order.
Then there are some like me who just enjoy the beauty of a fine piece of wood and want to let it shine thru.
If they want a rifle that looks like it was made 150-200 years ago with the black oxidized oils then maybe staining walnut would be ok.
If they were re-enacting it is unlikely the gun they would be carrying would have been made 200 years prior to the period they are portraying so a fairly new transparent unoxidized finish would be in order.
Then there are some like me who just enjoy the beauty of a fine piece of wood and want to let it shine thru.
Similar threads
