Sorry. No clues. Do your research and discover your gun history. That's what I'm doing here.
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My Kibler SMR Build Log
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Kmcmichael
45 Cal.
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Odd response. Once someone says “do your research” I doubt thier knowledge and voracity. I spent the 80s and early 90’s carrying revolvers. I never saw anyone mount a snubbie on the wall framed.
I am going to say that the gesture means absolutely nothing to anyone other than yourself. If you are trying to establish credibility on this forum by claiming some vague knowledge regarding firearm, you certainly failed in my estimation
I think most of us here have built a few guns and furniture etc. We in addition to the actual experts have been patient with you. Your response seems rather condescending and rude In light of how you were treated on this forum.
I am going to say that the gesture means absolutely nothing to anyone other than yourself. If you are trying to establish credibility on this forum by claiming some vague knowledge regarding firearm, you certainly failed in my estimation
I think most of us here have built a few guns and furniture etc. We in addition to the actual experts have been patient with you. Your response seems rather condescending and rude In light of how you were treated on this forum.
I'll play,pic goes fuzzy when I try to expand so I may be way off base,looks to me like a .32 S&W caliber made by H&R or NEF,it appears to me the ejecter rod is also cylinder release, hammer spur looks unrefined,grips look plastic I dont believe it looks as refined as a Colt or S&W but it may be just fuzzy pic when expanded. 
Kmcmichael
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…Was I wrong? Are you referring to the actual revolver?
First off, this is not a forum for modern firearm.
2. It is a cheap gun
3. The short flutes and cylinder make me think it is an older .32 or .38 S&W caliber or a rimfire.
4. It is the same model gun used on Ronald Reagan.
First off, this is not a forum for modern firearm.
2. It is a cheap gun
3. The short flutes and cylinder make me think it is an older .32 or .38 S&W caliber or a rimfire.
4. It is the same model gun used on Ronald Reagan.
On the crack, I have a friend who repairs and refinishes recurve and longbows which develop cracks in high stress areas. He used a product called Locktite 420 to repair these. You may want to buy some and experiment. It won't leave that dark streak but will hold that crack shut. It's a proven product. I use Titebond II and III a lot in decoy carving. Good product also but I like that Locktite product for cracks.
kelvinator
32 Cal.
Any good glue or bonding agent will be stronger than the thin walnut wood in the area of that crack.
The whole key to a quality repair will be in clamping/strapping it together with the crack seam perfectly matched together tight to minimize or near as possible eliminate the visibility of the glue in the crack... unlike your test piece.
The whole key to a quality repair will be in clamping/strapping it together with the crack seam perfectly matched together tight to minimize or near as possible eliminate the visibility of the glue in the crack... unlike your test piece.
Yes, yes, no, yes. Rohm RG-14S. Six shots DA .22 LR with which John Hinckley very nearly killed President Reagan and three other people. Led to the Brady Handgun Violence Prevention Act (aka "Brady Bill") which mandated background checks, waiting periods, defined "prohibited persons" and other gun control. So, yes, it's definitely a historically significant firearm for gun people.
I agree not the forum for discussion of the gun itself, but as for significant events in firearms history, well history is what this forum IS all about, isn't it? But not in THIS thread, so I suggest end that off-topic side track here.
Build Log #36
Uncracking a Crack
I'm ready to repair the crack, but first: investigate whether too tight a fit might have contributed to it. The barrel is already well-marked with Sharpie, so only needs reinserting and tapping here and there. Now, I would have sworn this barrel was fit perfectly. I did in the end use transfer marking, but now:
... it sure as heck isn't any more, and especially not in my suspect location.
But wait, not just there, but here as well:
Man!! This barrel isn't fitting well at all any more. The wood was really dry when it came in and it's been living in the basement since. I run a dehumidifier, but anyone living in northern climates knows what basements are like. I think this rifle stock has been swelling. Well, at least that's my excuse. I deal with it.
I had been planning to do the repair with the barrel in the stock. One concern of this method is that the crack runs through the forward tenon slot, so the repair must protect the tenon from getting glued to the stock. I tried protecting it with my thinnest tape and a little wax, but nope. Insufficient clearance:
And YA, OK ALREADY ... I SEE THE CHIP!! Remember this particular piece of hardware and its pins have seen their better days, before being abused by me, so just leave it alone; it has nothing to do with this repair.
So ... the decision was made to proceed with the repair with the barrel removed. The very tip of a toothpick spreads both cracks open more than enough:
Starbond comes with several applicator tips thin enough to inject into the tiniest crack:
I apply into the crack and when I'm sure the crack is completely filled, swab the topside and also the underside for any more overflow that I can't see there, hold the crack together firmly, and spray accelerator (even three hands not enough, so no pic of spraying), then remain absolutely motionless for a minute or so.
I can't really clamp directly here because the force can't be distributed at a right angle directly into the crack without the barrel in the stock. I've prepared for that with a more-or-less octagon-shaped plug that fits well enough and lightly clamp across, though I'm not even sure it needs it any more at this point:
Starbond wants you to wait 10 - 30 minutes before working on the glued piece. No problem. Lots of time here. This is how things look on the work side after waiting 20 minutes:
... and on the flip side:
I can see nothing more needs to be done here wrt the crack. So I can proceed to the reinforcement part of the task:
... and go hog wild. It's easy. This stuff has a long open time and flows and brushes easily and smoothly. I seriously think I might just do the whole forearm. This is going to be one strong forearm!!
Of course, sanding yet needs to be done. But I think the crack is fixed.
So long as the barrel is already out of the stock, I'll probably do the draw filing task next.
Uncracking a Crack
I'm ready to repair the crack, but first: investigate whether too tight a fit might have contributed to it. The barrel is already well-marked with Sharpie, so only needs reinserting and tapping here and there. Now, I would have sworn this barrel was fit perfectly. I did in the end use transfer marking, but now:
... it sure as heck isn't any more, and especially not in my suspect location.
But wait, not just there, but here as well:
Man!! This barrel isn't fitting well at all any more. The wood was really dry when it came in and it's been living in the basement since. I run a dehumidifier, but anyone living in northern climates knows what basements are like. I think this rifle stock has been swelling. Well, at least that's my excuse. I deal with it.
I had been planning to do the repair with the barrel in the stock. One concern of this method is that the crack runs through the forward tenon slot, so the repair must protect the tenon from getting glued to the stock. I tried protecting it with my thinnest tape and a little wax, but nope. Insufficient clearance:
And YA, OK ALREADY ... I SEE THE CHIP!! Remember this particular piece of hardware and its pins have seen their better days, before being abused by me, so just leave it alone; it has nothing to do with this repair.
So ... the decision was made to proceed with the repair with the barrel removed. The very tip of a toothpick spreads both cracks open more than enough:
Starbond comes with several applicator tips thin enough to inject into the tiniest crack:
I apply into the crack and when I'm sure the crack is completely filled, swab the topside and also the underside for any more overflow that I can't see there, hold the crack together firmly, and spray accelerator (even three hands not enough, so no pic of spraying), then remain absolutely motionless for a minute or so.
I can't really clamp directly here because the force can't be distributed at a right angle directly into the crack without the barrel in the stock. I've prepared for that with a more-or-less octagon-shaped plug that fits well enough and lightly clamp across, though I'm not even sure it needs it any more at this point:
Starbond wants you to wait 10 - 30 minutes before working on the glued piece. No problem. Lots of time here. This is how things look on the work side after waiting 20 minutes:
... and on the flip side:
I can see nothing more needs to be done here wrt the crack. So I can proceed to the reinforcement part of the task:
... and go hog wild. It's easy. This stuff has a long open time and flows and brushes easily and smoothly. I seriously think I might just do the whole forearm. This is going to be one strong forearm!!
Of course, sanding yet needs to be done. But I think the crack is fixed.
So long as the barrel is already out of the stock, I'll probably do the draw filing task next.
Guess you will find out if the barrel fits if the stock doesn’t crack when you put things back together.
That’s exactly why you repair with barrel installed..which many tried to tell him.. I’m curious now myself.
Barrel in place, some sort of release agent on it, then electric tape or surgical tubing to things snug…… Concerning to read ‘insufficient clearance’ but still proceeding. At least this isn’t a structural part of the stock.
ArmorerRoy
40 Cal
Join the Muzzleloading forum
Make a bunch of posts about my gun
Make some new friends
Make a bunch of posts about my gun
Yeah this yahoo ain't makin NO friends here!
Kmcmichael
45 Cal.
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Y
Yes you have went above and beyond to prove that about yourself.
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and i’m not even sure why it was shown? I mean… isn’t this a traditional muzzloading site?
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TDM
Cannon
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Makes one wonder about the entire thread.
Kmcmichael
45 Cal.
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Yes, I regret panticipating.
The one held up has a longer barrel. Surely you're aware the same make and model of a gun can be made in different barrel lengths? Duh....
( I'm glad I stimulated you to do some research, and I bet you learned something new today. ) Though .....
I suppose I don't dare post a pic of my Oswald rifle because it doesn't have the same scope he used .... sheesh
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Build Log #37
Draw!!
I bought a new file today so I'd be well-prepared to draw file my barrel. It's a file labelled as "single-cut" "medium finish" "metal removal" - aka a "mill file".
There are any number of excellent videos on draw filing. The best Kibler video is NOT in the SMR playlist on YouTube, it's actually in the Colonial rife playlist. That's an excellent video on draw filing.
To help me make sure my flat is actually flat, I mount it with reference to a bubble level:
These are some of the mill marks I want to make disappear:
Using the techniques outlined in the videos, they do disappear:
... leaving these curious metal shavings:
... which are proof of material being filed off.
I find it's helpful to put some marks along the flat to be filed:
... so I know if I'm filing flat or not.
Oops, not:
... so ... adjust hold pressure!!
Actually, this process is pretty easy and simple. Hard for even me to screw up. Nothing any first-timer should be intimidated by. Just have a sharp file and use good techniques as shown in the videos. Five minutes per flat may be a little optimistic, but not by much.
My only problem arose when I tried to bevel the muzzle, as Kibler does in his video, and as I've seen on some completed rifles. I found it was very, very difficult to file eight bevels of equal angle and equal depth, and eventually gave up and sort of rounded it off as best I could:
Not very happy with that, so I'd recommend to other first-timers to just leave the muzzle flat. It already looks just fine that way.
Meanwhile, any good ideas on how to remedy that / disguise that / just leave it alone are welcomed. But I just had to leave you guys with at least one little thing to jump on, no?
Draw!!
I bought a new file today so I'd be well-prepared to draw file my barrel. It's a file labelled as "single-cut" "medium finish" "metal removal" - aka a "mill file".
There are any number of excellent videos on draw filing. The best Kibler video is NOT in the SMR playlist on YouTube, it's actually in the Colonial rife playlist. That's an excellent video on draw filing.
To help me make sure my flat is actually flat, I mount it with reference to a bubble level:
These are some of the mill marks I want to make disappear:
Using the techniques outlined in the videos, they do disappear:
... leaving these curious metal shavings:
... which are proof of material being filed off.
I find it's helpful to put some marks along the flat to be filed:
... so I know if I'm filing flat or not.
Oops, not:
... so ... adjust hold pressure!!
Actually, this process is pretty easy and simple. Hard for even me to screw up. Nothing any first-timer should be intimidated by. Just have a sharp file and use good techniques as shown in the videos. Five minutes per flat may be a little optimistic, but not by much.
My only problem arose when I tried to bevel the muzzle, as Kibler does in his video, and as I've seen on some completed rifles. I found it was very, very difficult to file eight bevels of equal angle and equal depth, and eventually gave up and sort of rounded it off as best I could:
Not very happy with that, so I'd recommend to other first-timers to just leave the muzzle flat. It already looks just fine that way.
Meanwhile, any good ideas on how to remedy that / disguise that / just leave it alone are welcomed. But I just had to leave you guys with at least one little thing to jump on, no?
Me too.
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