My Lancaster 50cal build

[rigmarol]

Well, it was bound to happen sooner or later... I made my first major oops!

I was slowly inletting for the tang and breech plug after getting the barrel and lock where I wanted them and while cutting a vertical chisel cut I popped off a chunk of wood right on top of the wrist next to the tang!

Oh well, just like the first dent in a new car, you dread it happening but feel a little better after it's out of the way. LOL.

I have it glued back in place and will let it set for a day or two just to be sure it's ok. Just used Elmer's Wood glue.

 

[Capt. Fred]

Yup, it happens all too easily. I chipped out a sliver next to the tang on my Beck after everything was done and I was taking the barrel out to be sure the browning had stopped rusting on the bottom of the barrel. I'd had a spot start rusting again on the top flat and got worried about the bottom. Decided to pop the barrel out and also popped a chip out.

I haven't fixed it yet.

 

[rigmarol]

I've been working very slowly on this project. Having a great time. Reading here really helps, thanks.

It took me quite a bit of small cuts and many checks and rechecks but I've finally got the barrel and tang and lock plate where I want them.

Now, I'm trying to get the trigger group set so it trips the hammer correctly. I've not screwed in the lock plate yet, nor the tang to the trigger plate, so I'm trying to make the trigger work by holding everything in place tightly by hand and vice and such.

I'm using a double set trigger and can't seem to understand how it relates to the sear tripping. I lined up the "crotch" of both blades with the sear and it seems to be placed close to where it should but I have to pull the trigger all the way back and very hard to actually trip the hammer.

The trigger group in place:

The trigger blade fully up:

The set trigger blade fully up:

The small adjustment screw in the trigger plate lines up center of the sear inlet hole.

Any suggestions will be gratefully accepted.

 

[bioprof]

You really need to have the lock assembled and bolted in place and the trigger plate secured with the tang bolt and wood screw to tell if it works.

Have you checked to see if the lug for the trigger guard will clear the front of the trigger plate? I've usually had to shorten the trigger plate on the front so that the trigger guard will fit in place. You really need to have things planned out several steps ahead of time before cutting into any wood. It's not too much different than playing a game of chess.

If the lug for the trigger guard interferes with the trigger plate, you can cut the lug off and resolder it to a new place that works, but that's a lot more work.

 

[rigmarol]

The trigger guard looks like it will clear the front of the trigger plate. I had the trigger rough inlet by the stock maker so I'm at his mercy for that part.

I was hoping to get things working (the trigger actually making the hammer fall without a ton of pressure. That's why I haven't bolted it all up yet.

The way I understand it, I need to pin my barrel in, then do my tang screw into my trigger plate, and also tie down my lock plate by drilling through a clear space to my base plate on the other side of the lock.

You are very right when you say I have to think a few moves ahead! No doubt about it! LOL.

I was just hoping someone had a trick on getting the trigger close to correct before I begin by pinning (dovetails and pins) and my drilling and tapping of my other parts.

Thanks.

 

[ehoff]

I think I understand what you are saying is that the set triggers won't fire the lock. To give the set triggers more snap, turn down the screw that holds the main spring a little deeper. This will make the rear trigger hit the sear with a harder thump. Also check with spotting compound (soot, inletting black, etc) to see if any of the lock internals are rubbing on the inlet. This can also lead to a hard trigger pull.

 

[rigmarol]

Exactly what I need to know. Thanks.

So, I'm to rely on the spring driving the trigger blade into the sear rod to trip the hammer, not the pressure of pulling the trigger?

That explains why it's so hard. I have the spring very loose right now thinking I was fighting the spring! I got it backwards I guess.

I have checked for clearance and I'm sure I'm ok, but, I will follow directions and check it again.

Thanks.

 

[ehoff]

Yup, you got it right. When the triggers are "set" and the front hair trigger released the rear trigger bar hits the sear under the spring tension of the main spring.

 

[rigmarol]

Ok, I've tightened up the spring and 'lo and behold; the hammer falls just as expected!

Problems are almost always easy to solve, it's getting the part where you know HOW to solve it that's the hard part! I'm glad I waited and asked questions. I was about to start inletting some more on the trigger thinking I had to get more leverage on the sear bar.

Thanks again guys.