My next/last rifle.

[Stumpkiller]

Pyrodex doesn't ignite in the pan of flintlocks. Not even good for the main charge unless the flinter is designed to use it.

Only black powder works. Lower flash point.

Good news is that it can be shipped (but there is a haz mat fee).

 

[Scout1]

Gotcha, thanks. Figured it was something like that.

Jim

 

[Zonie]

If you read the Pyrodex information, it will say it can be used in a flintlock.

It goes on to say you must use real black powder in the pan and also dump 5-10 grains (by volume) of real black powder down the barrel for a starter.

Then, the remainder of the main powder charge in the barrel will be Pyrodex.

This does work but it's kind of a pita.

If you just use the real black powder for the priming in the pan and nothing but Pyrodex in the barrel, it might fire or it might not.

When I did this by accident, I had to prime the pan and fire it 3 times before the Pyrodex fired.

The same problem will happen if you use Seven7seven or any of the other synthetic black powders.
They all have a higher ignition temperature so they don't light easily.

While I'm on the subject, the synthetic black powders sometimes hang fire or mis-fire in percussion guns too.

Using Magnum caps helps but occasionally Pyrodex or 777 takes a noticeable amount of time to fire after the cap has exploded.

 

[SgtErv]

Definitely flint, and definitely use Goex black powder. You'll find yourself using it in your percussion guns, too.

As for caliber, I have a .45 and two .50s. The .50 Isaac Haines is awesome with a swamped 38" barrel. Handles easily, robust stock and such. It's a fine rifle, and plenty pretty. Love it much more than the heavier half stock.

For a flint, the most important part is the lock. Top shelf will serve you well. A Jim Chmabers Siler can't be beat in my opinion

 

[smoothshooter]

Order half a case and have it sent to your house UPS.

 

[Gene L]

Order half a case and have it sent to your house UPS.

Yeah, since the Hazardous Duty rate is the same, I recommend ordering at least 5 pounds of Goex. In that order, get some 4F for priming. Some say it doesn't matter if you use 3F for priming, but I've found it makes a difference I can tell. Fractions of a second, true, but especially if you're behind the gun, that slight delay is apparent.

Call TVM and talk to Melanie, she'll help you with your choice.

When I got my rifle, the rear sight was loose in the slot to allow the shooter to get the windage right. After I got the windage right, I had to stake it down. Also, I had to needle file the rear sight slot down to allow more light in. Shot it yesterday and it shot great...cutting the center out at 25. My load was 40 gr. FFFG, which gave the rifle a nice "crack".

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Well, since you've been shooting Pyrodex only, go with a flintlock for certain! It will force you to use real black powder, and you'll end up thanking us in the end :wink:

I've switched to Swiss powder and the clean up and rusting has diminished greatly. Good BP just isn't as corrosive as Pyrodex. According to the Mad Monk, it is the chlorides that cause rusting and pitting (not sulfur as old wives would tell us). Pyrodex has chloride as an active ingredient; black powder has chloride as an impurity. Good bp manufacturing keeps chlorides to a minimum.

On to flintlock: You might as well get one since you can then choose between cap or flint depending on the weather. You might also get a .36 to prevent having to order black powder too soon again. (but I strongly suspect you will begin shooting bp in all your guns.)

 

[MSW]

I would recommend a Southern Mountain, with a .40 cal bbl, in flint. get the nicest grade of maple you can - a little 'bling' ever hurt!

(one guy's opinion - free and doubtless well worth the price!)

Make good smoke!

(by the way, I prime with the same powder I use for the main charge ... it's theoretically faster to use 4F, but I'm not a good enough shot for that to make a difference)

 

[Gene L]

While 3F will definitely work, I can't see any disadvantage to using 4F to prime with...especially since the OP will likely have to order powder, as most of us do. Throw in a pound of 4F and it will last a LONG time.

I was very surprised at the difference 4F made, since I'd used 3F before and it shot what I thought was fine. Until I tried 4F. Quicker lock time means less time to flinch. No use to just "get by" when getting better costs nothing.