My unknown rifle journey

[NavyDoc76-80]

I’ve decided to start this as a diary to making this rifle right again. I will bring up many subjects but trying to keep the answers in one place. First, what do I mean unknown. This 54 cal musket long rifle was gifted to me. Only markings visible are 54 cal and a 4 digit serial #. Removed barrel from stock to find made in Italy, black powder only, and some tool marks. That makes it impossible to reference manufacturer when looking for parts. Two main parts missing were the nipple and the front sight. This has been Nickel and dimeing me into poverty (slightly kidding). Found nipple to be metric and front sight to measure in standard. Still looking for front sight to fit.

 

[ppg1949]

Is it possible to load a photo?

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

Here’s the missing front sight

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

Rear, nipple and stock

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

Tool marks if that means anything

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

Stock was in an unfinished and unfit state when I got it carvers gouging marks were very pronounced in the butt stock area. Butt plate fit is still proud, easy fix. Tongue fit can’t be fixed as the tongue is way proud of the wood.

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

As you can tell here in pic. Is what it is.

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

Ordered these front sights from Muzzleloader Builders Supply. The base is supposed to be 3/8”-.375”,
These arrived measuring 23/64”-.366”.
Enough difference that they just slide through.

 

[2 shots]

the tang [tongue] can be filed down to and with the wood. if the brass is soft those sight bases cant likely be hammered out to size . flat piece of steel on top , good solid piece on bottom, or return them

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

the tang [tongue] can be filed down to and with the wood.

You would do that?

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

the tang [tongue] can be filed down to and with the wood.

Tang….got it

 

[2 shots]

thats how it done. if you dont want to try filing the whole tang you could just round over the edges to meet the wood. you do this with the barrel in the stock and file metal and wood together to make it flush. but first make sure the barrel is seated all the way down

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

thats how it done. if you dont want to try filing the whole tang you could just round over the edges to meet the wood. you do this with the barrel in the stock and file metal and wood together to make it flush. but first make sure the barrel is seated all the way down

Got it. Thanks

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

So the tang will come after the following. So I just finished the sanding around the butt plate that was grossly proud. It’s now respectable. The top plate of the butt plate fits decently. But the butt part to wood has gaps. Here’s what I’m going to try. In theory, titebond wood glue should not bond to the metal. I will make a paste from collected sawdust from the stock, lather it onto the wood butt, reapply butt plate, remove extra as needed, leaving some for shrinkage. My hope after curing, I can remove the plate and when it’s time, get two coats of Tung Oil finish (Sutherland Welles) to seal the hidden wood. How wide were the gaps you ask? Took feeler gauge and came up with 8 at narrowest and 15 at widest. Tang next, then final sand before applying finish. (Unless something else occurs to me)

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

Gap

 

[NavyDoc76-80]

Of possible interest. This wood seems very oily. I’ve made the statement that this was Turkish/English Walnut. The assumption made from its grain and likely European origin. But while hand sanding it’s quite noticeable. Have worked with an oily wood before like this and it was Teak. I’ve never worked with walnut before. I understand from here that American walnut is an open grain, whereas the Turkish is a closed grain. This certainly fits that bill. One odd occurrence is when the stock is resting, wherever contact is made, brown blotches are formed on the surface. Odd huh?