Navy Arms Miroku Charleville parts?

[deGheyn]

I just acquired a new to me Charleville. There is only 1 mark on the frizzen, most likely from the rock someone used. From the patina on the barrel, I would guess it's been hanging on a wall for years. Overall, it's in very good condition. The stock appears to be cherry and I'll be researching refinishing techniques to darken the finish. The ramrod is really tight in the stock. There is a ramrod spring, but it seems like the wood needs a little work so the rod will return easily. The only real issue is the front band spring is snapped in half. Does anyone know if a Pedersoli spring will fit? What other options are there?

 

[Clark Badgett]

No need to darken the wood. European walnut tends to be a bit more red than American walnut.

 

[deGheyn]

I think I was wrong about it being cherry. It has an orange appearance. From what I'm finding online, it must be birch. I was also wrong about the ramrod spring. The ramrod is so tight I thought there must be something holding it. I have sent a message to Ackerman Arms to get some info. Hopefully he can help me.

 

[wiscoaster]

Contact Paul Ackermann at https://www.ackermannarms.com/ - a definite knowledgeable and resourceful "go-to" for all Charlevile repros. Personal experience, not opinion.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
I wonder if that is the original stock or perhaps it was a kit gun. If you remove the third barrel band (the one that covers the ramrod hole) is there a joint indicating a two-piece stock? Many guys mistakenly stain muskets really dark, almost black. Here is an original French model 1766 musket showing the color of the stock.

You should be able to get a replacement band spring from the Rifle Shoppe. The correct parts are for their series 702 French musket part #702BBS. It will probably require a bit of fitting. Paul Ackermann may have some replacement parts for it.

dave

 

[deGheyn]

It does have a 2 piece stock. The orange finish is goofy looking though. It appears to be in unfired condition, so I would expect it's the original stock. I haven't heard back from Mr. Ackermann, but VTI has the Pedersoli spring in stock. I just don't know how different they are. I'm sure there will be a little fitting either way.

 

[deGheyn]

I spoke with Mr. Ackermann yesterday. He does have the part I need. Also, if anyone is wondering, the Pedersoli band spring is smaller than the Miroku and would not have worked for me. Mr. Ackermann was very helpful and answered several questions I had about cleaning up the musket. He also talked me out of refinishing the stock. I'm glad I didn't open that can of worms.

 

[duca]

I spoke with Mr. Ackermann yesterday. He does have the part I need. Also, if anyone is wondering, the Pedersoli band spring is smaller than the Miroku and would not have worked for me. Mr. Ackermann was very helpful and answered several questions I had about cleaning up the musket. He also talked me out of refinishing the stock. I'm glad I didn't open that can of worms.

Great to hear! Keep us posted on the final product

 

[deGheyn]

Ramrod issues. My Miroku Charleville came with a 6mm thread size rod. It appears Track's Enfield adapter, SA-10-ENFIELD, should fit. Their SA-10-JAPAN adapter did not fit as 6mm is slightly larger than 12-32. The other option I'm looking at is to drill and tap a worm to fit the 6mm. I may do both since I like to have a jag, scraper and ball puller for each of my kits. Dixie sells a replacement ramrod that does have 12-32 threads, although I see no sense in replacing the original. BTW, the ramrod not fitting in the channel was due to rust/corrosion on the barrel bands.

It was not in as good of condition as I originally thought. Once I received the new band spring I pulled all the steel off, disassembled the lock and cleaned it all up. I'm still not happy with the polish job I did, but can re-address that later. How bright should "armory bright" be? Mirror? Out of curiosity, I wiped the unfinished wood behind the buttstock with blo. It looks pretty good, I'm still thinking about a citristrip, blo refinish. That orange varnish is just ugly to me.

It's a good shooter! When I pulled the barrel to clean it after my range day, the stock actually pulled apart. I will note that we are having warm, dry weather & maybe the heat from the barrel may have caused shrinkage. Is the two piece stock just a press fit or should it be glued?

 

[deGheyn]

two piece stock

 

[tjiann]

Did you get a definitive answer from Mr. Ackermann on what type of wood that is? I've got a Miroku Brown Bess that I assumed was cherry, but heard from others that they may have used beech. Not sure. Anyway, I sanded it down and refinished it with 5 coats of True Oil a few months ago. It came out nice.

 

[deGheyn]

It should be Japanese Birch.

 

[deGheyn]

I forgot to take a "before" pic of the unfinished butt, but the above shows just a single wipe with blo.

 

[springfield art]

I just acquired a new to me Charleville. There is only 1 mark on the frizzen, most likely from the rock someone used. From the patina on the barrel, I would guess it's been hanging on a wall for years. Overall, it's in very good condition. The stock appears to be cherry and I'll be researching refinishing techniques to darken the finish. The ramrod is really tight in the stock. There is a ramrod spring, but it seems like the wood needs a little work so the rod will return easily. The only real issue is the front band spring is snapped in half. Does anyone know if a Pedersoli spring will fit? What other options are there?

I've come across several older muzzle loading musket-types that appear to have been sitting un-used, perhaps as decoration or whatever. Just got a NIB Zoli 1803 Harpers Ferry that was unused in original box even thought it was from the 1970's. Gotta love finds like that! Good luck with your Charleville, I have one marked on tang, JAPAN. May be Miroku, but I'm leaving the mark there as a clue to it's provenance.

 

[tjiann]

I forgot to take a "before" pic of the unfinished butt, but the above shows just a single wipe with blo.

I use True Oil because it's polymerized BLO, so will dry quicker and I can do multiple coats in a much shorter period of time.

 

[springfield art]

I use True Oil because it's polymerization BLO, so will dry quicker and I can do multiple coats in a much shorter period of time.

I've gotta get a fresh bottle of Tru-Oil. Thanks for the reminder!!