Need help selecting the right kit for replica

[54ball]

Notice how slim this rifle looks. Notice how the lower forestock flows into the ramrod groove area with out an abrupt transition.

Look at how the bottom of the forestock is rounded. Note how the lock panels meet the round forestock. See how the bottom of the stock still looks round in the front trigger guard bow area.
Imagine the the trigger guard removed. Note how the flat of the butt stock meets the bottom of the forestock in the area of the trigger.

Look at how more than half the ramrod is showing out of the groove.
Look at how the upper forestock appears V shaped into the ramrod groove. Notice the widest part of the stock is about 1/3 of the way down, then the V begins to taper into the ramrod groove. Look at how at the 1/3 " widest part of the stock" it rounds up and into the side of the barrel flat with little or no detectible flat there.

Many books recommend that the widest part of the stock, 1/3 down from the the barrel be only 1/8 wider than the barrel from the lock to entry pipe. From the entry pipe forward its only 1/16 wider than the barrel.

Another tip is the wrist should be the same width as the forestock area in front of the lock panel. That is looking down from above.

It may be a good idea to bring the top of the side and lock panels down to meet the side flat of the bbl., just a hair above the top lock screw.
Do the lock side first and make a pattern of of it to transfer to the side panel.

 

[Palepainter]

Many thanks. I Am glad I have stopped where I am at. It is much tougher to put the wood back. I will have the original in my hands this week.

 

[jdkerstetter]

When you get it post some better, more detailed, close-up pictures please.

Here and on the other site I directed you to before so maybe we can identify it more firmly.

Thanks again and Enjoy, J.D.

 

[54ball]

In response to htredneck

Why not make a tracing.
To make a tracer, take a 2x4 and cut a square block. Drill a hole through one corner and out the top center of the block. This hole should be just large enough to insert a pencil.
To trace slide the block around the rifle. The block holds the pencil at a true 90 degrees and you get a true tracing.
If you want you could glue some soft cloth to the side that contacts the rifle.
Be sure to take plenty of pics for reference.

This is from another thread. I think it would be a good idea to make a tracing to transfer to a blank in case you wanted to make a closer copy from a blank one day.
The reason for the tracer jig is doing with pencil alone its east to get the tracing out of proportion. If I have time I'll make and photo one tomorrow.

When you handle the rifle handle it and look at it with the hands and eyes of an artist. Grab by the wrist and palm the fore stock rub it in your hands side ti side. Make a mental note how it feels.
Do the same to your project afterwards and you can see and even feel what needs to be done.

You still have a lot of wood to remove, the trick is removing it from the right place. Take plenty of pics against a neutral background. Study and feel it with the eyes and hands of an artist or gun maker.

 

[Palepainter]

I will do that, but as I mentioned earlier, I want to make this rifle mine, not my distant relatives. Some things are important to me more than others. Mine has a longer length of pull and some cast off in the rear. I am more concerned with some of the decor and engraving of the original rifle than the build actually. But, the dimension changes in the fore stock will be addressed. Thanks.

 

[54ball]

Lets put on the brakes for a moment.

I am more concerned with some of the decor and engraving of the original rifle than the build actually.

This can be a mistake. For the rifle to be good the architecture has to be good. All the icing in the world can do little for a lopsided cake.

I'm not saying your rifle is a lopsided cake. I'm just saying you have to have a good base before you even think about decoration.

Look at the Free Born Rifle. Note how the carving is not very deep. It has almost two and a half centuries of wear but still it's not that deep.
The exception is the stepped wrist, so nicely done on this rifle it blends in where it starts at the rear of the trigger guard.

Take a look at the other rifles on this page.

Link Free Born

 

[jdkerstetter]

Also, keep in mind that as you lengthen the pull the butt gets taller as well as longer. You will have to scale up any parts that you are going to duplicate on the bigger gun to keep the symmetry....the patchbox for example.

Lengthening trigger pull when doing a copy is tricky to pull off right.

Photos of the original, copied and scaled up to your desired pull length will be helpful as a pattern.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Palepainter]

I can appreciate the comments. Perhaps I should have phrased it differently. My intentions are to build the rifle to my likes and tastes, with regards to proper proportions and some basic design foundations. As far as duplicating the original rifle, my intentions are to take cues from some of the decor to provide more of a tribute to my past relative and his rifle. This rifle will be used by myself, quite often I may add, as I shoot in a club 2 to 3 times a month. No body has mentioned the Hawken style front sight yet surprisingly. :wink:

Thanks again.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Sounds great. Butt as Travis suggested make a tracing of the orginal while you have it. If you can swing it, get professional pictures taken at ever angle. Record all measurements....including several places on the barrel as it is probably swamped. You never know, you may want to make or have made a copy of it someday and this may be your only chance to document it.

Besides....we would all like to see more pictures! :wink:

Enjoy the journey, J.D.