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Need help with getting more than 4 shots of my rifle
- Thread starter ISUSteve
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Uncle Mike
32 Cal.
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Hi,before you drive to Gander Mountain call.I believe that don't carry real BP anymore,regards,Mike
Thanks for the replies.
I'll try a new jag and get some black powder one way or another. I don't shoot it a lot because I can't get that many shots out of it and my other BP gun blew up, so I don't know what I'd do with 5 lbs of black powder. How long does it last?
One more thing, how many shots do you guys get out of one in a range session?
I'll try a new jag and get some black powder one way or another. I don't shoot it a lot because I can't get that many shots out of it and my other BP gun blew up, so I don't know what I'd do with 5 lbs of black powder. How long does it last?
One more thing, how many shots do you guys get out of one in a range session?
You can get real black powder at Fin and Feather in Iowa City or Upper Mississippi Valle Mercantel in Davenport. Davenport would be cheaper of the two. Grafs is another good place. I know some has got to be had in the Des Moine area, because I shoot with a bunch from that area and they all have it. Leon
Another problem with the Traditions guns are the Real Small flash channel in the patent breech. It is only about .024" and gets clogged with fouling real easy. To fix you need to pull the breechplug and drill it out bigger.
Well nothing I did really. It was my grandpa's retirement present that I got when he died. I took it out one day loaded it up and shot it. Shot it again. Loaded it up again and handed it my wife and she shot it. The gun went thud and the barrel shot off from the receiver about 3 feet. She wasn't hurt, just scared The powder charge was 70 grains FFFG in all cases.
It had a nipple that went from the receiver to the barrel that cracked. A BP guy at a gunshow finally made sense of what happened. It was a Mowry I believe. He said this design was no longer made because of this problem. If the gun was dropped, it cracked this nipple piece and after time and many firings, just propagated the crack and eventually just came apart.
It had a nipple that went from the receiver to the barrel that cracked. A BP guy at a gunshow finally made sense of what happened. It was a Mowry I believe. He said this design was no longer made because of this problem. If the gun was dropped, it cracked this nipple piece and after time and many firings, just propagated the crack and eventually just came apart.
MikeChapin
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ISUSteve said:
I can usually shoot all day without cleaning. I just use spit for a patch lube. Something you might want to look into is using Balistol to protect the bore after you clean the rifle. It made a terrific difference in how fast the barrel crudded up.
Black powder will last forever if you keep it dry. There is no shelf life like there is with the substitutes.
I'll second rubincam's question. How did you blow up your other gun?
Interesting experience you had with the Mowrey, while I've never heard of that happening before I can see how it could happen. The brass receiver threaded into the barrel is all that holds the gun together in the middle and a fall could easily crack the brass, too bad about that, it is a design flaw.
This is how I have done the jags for about 35 years & it works. First of all you ALWAYS buy a jag, ball puller, etc. with a Steel shaft on it, not a brass shaft as they break too easily.
Chuck it in a drill or drill press by the threaded shaft, rutn it & take a 3 corner file & taper the lands of the jag sh they are beveled & sharp. First land into the barrel needs to be about .005 to .010" smaller than the other 2 or 3 lands with. This makes a arrowhead effect of the jag & patch going into the bore, it pushes past the fouling & upon pulling it out the patch gatheres on the sharp lands of the jag & it pulls the fouling out.
Will post a photo of a modified jag soon as I can find my dang password to the site...... :cursing:
Now keep in mind we are not Cleaning the bore, we are removing excess fouling & keeping the bore consistant. Don't use a shooting patch for swabbing, use flannel patches or t-shirt patches, as they are softer & push past the fouling & gather better on the outstroke. A shooting patch is sometimes too stiff & just shoves all the fouling right into the breech & packes it in there = no ignition.
And of course, get some Real black powder.
Chuck it in a drill or drill press by the threaded shaft, rutn it & take a 3 corner file & taper the lands of the jag sh they are beveled & sharp. First land into the barrel needs to be about .005 to .010" smaller than the other 2 or 3 lands with. This makes a arrowhead effect of the jag & patch going into the bore, it pushes past the fouling & upon pulling it out the patch gatheres on the sharp lands of the jag & it pulls the fouling out.
Will post a photo of a modified jag soon as I can find my dang password to the site...... :cursing:
Now keep in mind we are not Cleaning the bore, we are removing excess fouling & keeping the bore consistant. Don't use a shooting patch for swabbing, use flannel patches or t-shirt patches, as they are softer & push past the fouling & gather better on the outstroke. A shooting patch is sometimes too stiff & just shoves all the fouling right into the breech & packes it in there = no ignition.
And of course, get some Real black powder.
Jumpshot
54 Cal.
paulvallandigham said:
Birddog6 said:
Now he's getting conflicting information.
I have most of the things that I need. I think I need a good solid cleaning rod, but I can't find one long enough. I believe my barrel is 33", but all the ones I find are 30". I found one once, but it was $60. I'll get a jag and take it to my grandpa, hes got a machine shop and can work miracles. Hes building a 4 cubic inch engine right now from some blocks of aluminium. Thanks for your help.
paulvallandigham
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Jumpshot. I have used both, and prefer the kind I described. However, its important that the jag have the right diameter for the bore, either way you make it.
His comments about the stiff patches that we use around the ball pushing crud down into the powder is the reason I stop my rod one inch from the breechplug, and only after pulling out 99% of the crud, will I use a clean cleaning patch that is dry to go down to the breech to soak up and moisture and crud sticking in that last inch.
I have tried the idea of letting the thick patch around my ball push the crud down into the powder, and supposedly blow out when the next charge is fired. I got eratic velocities doing that, and wider groups. If I did not shoot the load off quickly, within 2 minutes, I might be lucky to hit the paper.
The relative humidity here is high, particular from April through November. It also can be high during " January thaws", and even as early as March if we have an early Spring. That means that I can have about 2 good months, and parts of two more when its both cold and dry here. I suspect that ISUSTEVE has the same kind of weather in Iowa. As much as I would like to tell him he can shoot lots of shots without cleaning and have no ignition problems or problems with accuracy, I can't. Its just not my experience here.
The closest I have come to being able to do that here, was taking a suggestion from Roundball, or someone equally as experienced, and putting more Bore Butter in the barrel and on the patch if the ball starts to get hard to run down the barrel. That does seems to melt the dry crud, and allow future shots to be loaded without stopping to clean. It doesn't cure the other problem I have with this technique, but if you are shooting at large targets, and are not looking for one-hole groups, it works fine. Just fire that next shot before the stuff begins to foul the powder charge. Bore Butter does not seem to do it, like other lubes and cleaners seem to do.
This is the Corn Belt, where we kid each other about sitting out and watching the corn grow in June and July. Actually, If you put a measuring stick in the ground during June and July, you can see as much as 1 inch of growth per day, and sometimes more on corn, it grows that fast. Our high relative humidity is what makes this all possible.
His comments about the stiff patches that we use around the ball pushing crud down into the powder is the reason I stop my rod one inch from the breechplug, and only after pulling out 99% of the crud, will I use a clean cleaning patch that is dry to go down to the breech to soak up and moisture and crud sticking in that last inch.
I have tried the idea of letting the thick patch around my ball push the crud down into the powder, and supposedly blow out when the next charge is fired. I got eratic velocities doing that, and wider groups. If I did not shoot the load off quickly, within 2 minutes, I might be lucky to hit the paper.
The relative humidity here is high, particular from April through November. It also can be high during " January thaws", and even as early as March if we have an early Spring. That means that I can have about 2 good months, and parts of two more when its both cold and dry here. I suspect that ISUSTEVE has the same kind of weather in Iowa. As much as I would like to tell him he can shoot lots of shots without cleaning and have no ignition problems or problems with accuracy, I can't. Its just not my experience here.
The closest I have come to being able to do that here, was taking a suggestion from Roundball, or someone equally as experienced, and putting more Bore Butter in the barrel and on the patch if the ball starts to get hard to run down the barrel. That does seems to melt the dry crud, and allow future shots to be loaded without stopping to clean. It doesn't cure the other problem I have with this technique, but if you are shooting at large targets, and are not looking for one-hole groups, it works fine. Just fire that next shot before the stuff begins to foul the powder charge. Bore Butter does not seem to do it, like other lubes and cleaners seem to do.
This is the Corn Belt, where we kid each other about sitting out and watching the corn grow in June and July. Actually, If you put a measuring stick in the ground during June and July, you can see as much as 1 inch of growth per day, and sometimes more on corn, it grows that fast. Our high relative humidity is what makes this all possible.
Log Cabin has solid brass range rods or cleaning rods long enough, and also MBS has them in SS that are reasonable. Be sure to use a bore guide when using these rods. And I suggest just staying completely away from fiberglass range/loading/cleaning rods.
Since you grandpa has a machine shop, you might ask him about a metal supplier close, sometimes they have brass 3/8" solid rod in 36" lengths & he could drill & tap one end for the attachments & then braze ya a T handle on the other end of it.
Since you grandpa has a machine shop, you might ask him about a metal supplier close, sometimes they have brass 3/8" solid rod in 36" lengths & he could drill & tap one end for the attachments & then braze ya a T handle on the other end of it.
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