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Pull the nipple put in about 10 grains of powder, It will ignite the main charge and shoot out the ball...
"...a patch plugging the FLASH HOLE"

Typically would point to it being a Flintlock, so it would not have a nipple. But it might have a vent liner.

Perhaps we should have a standard Questionnaire for folks to fill out when asking "Help, gotta Stuck Ball!"

1) What type of gun?
Flintlock or Percussion
Rifle or Pistol

2) Is there a Charge behind the ball?
Yes or No

3) is the ball Seated or Part way?

4) what have you tried so far?

Once those four questions have been answered ONLY then can legitimate, and proper, suggestions be offered.

Wow! Come on people, like where are those Grease Gun suggestions??
 
Good ol’ habit of opining to opine! The OP stated the problem was solved in the opening statement, the gunsmith will take care of it, assuming he is competent will treat the gun as if it loaded whether it is or is not and cure the malady!! The OP also vowed that “it will never happen again” (good luck with that!) so I never really understood what ideas he was seeking.
 
Good ol’ habit of opining to opine! The OP stated the problem was solved in the opening statement, the gunsmith will take care of it, assuming he is competent will treat the gun as if it loaded whether it is or is not and cure the malady!! The OP also vowed that “it will never happen again” (good luck with that!) so I never really understood what ideas he was seeking.
Great observation.
 
People just need to hear themselves rant:
"Good ol’ habit of opining to opine! The OP stated the problem was solved in the opening statement,"
Don't you love extensive comments from people who never read through the original question!
But then that is half of why we are all here....
 
The grease gun method works best in a percussion lock. The nipple is designed to be removed and zerk fittings for the grease guns are plentiful. The touch hole liner for many of us is not intended to be removed. I know there are some that have slots for a screwdriver of an Allen socket and these are often regularly removed. Many of us never remove the touch hole liner. For us the grease gun is not on the list unless we destroy our touch hole liner. In our case it is easier to remove the barrel and breech plug to drive the stuck ball out. For us, spending a few minutes poking a few grains of 3F or 4F powder through the touch hole to shoot the stuck ball out, using a screw type ball puller on a working rod, or using a tightly fitting CO2 discharger or compressed air are the preferred removal methods.
 
Nothing at all wrong with removing vent liners or nipples; IF you know what your doing and use PROPER TOOLS to do it.
One must know the proper way to screw mechanical pieces together (taught in any beginner's Shop Class) and be capable of such delicate surgery operations!
Many of us remove our liners and nipples Every time (or most every time) when cleaning, we know the demons that collect on the other side, we know how to apply grease and how to Properly align threads and Not to over tighten. I however read a number of threads where the day comes that someone Needs, they Must remove the part but...through what is called 'Neglect', they are unable.

Two rules of school; those who can and those who cant.
 
The White Lightening touch hole liner is designed to have the slot filed away on completion of the installation. Caywood provides a simple drilled touch hole and the warranty on his guns is voided if a touch hole liner is installed.
 
Pedersoli provides vent liners that easily remove for cleaning and or replacing.
My others with no vent liner needs none until the day comes that the vent gets blown out.
All my percussions have well kept, and lived nipples that come off with ease.

As a Mechanic, Electro mechanic, computer/printer repair, and a year of Aviation Powerplant mechanic training; we are taught (and as I taught in my classes):
If a screw, nut, or bolt is Peened, Marked, Soldered/Welded, or installed with Locktight - STOP! - Refer to the manual for it is most likely precision installed and you do not proceed unless prepared to perform proper adjustments...or simply is not intended to be removed.

Otherwise; use the proper tool (screwdriver, wrench, socket), clean ALL threads (both male and female), start threads properly when putting back, and don't over tighten unless instructed to. In some cases (such as firearms) lube the threads.
They are Screwed on and not Pressed or welded or Peened for the purpose of removal and maintenance, and when needed, replaced.

Personally: I despise those who use electric drivers and don't know how to use them
 

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