Need some more advice, please. Acraglas application.

[Artificer]

I’ve pretty much gone past what Dave has described. I’m about to “whisker” the stock and don’t have much left for cleanup. Soooo with that in mind, I’ll BACK OFF ON THE ACRAGLAS.

I feel pretty good about the barrel inlet that I did…. Took my time… did like Bill Raby and Mike Beliveau showed me in there videos.

OK, I won't go any further with the process, then.

Gus

 

[Ravenshurst]

Ummmm....Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but I would like to learn the rest of the process.....

 

[DCAN]

ME TOO!! Like having the cable tv go out in the 4th quarter with the game tied.

 

[Kansas Jake]

Brownell’s show Acraglas as out of stock and has been for a month or longer. I was going to order some from Scheels because they did show it in stock but I waited a day or two too long.

 

[user 34300]

I add some black iron oxide to make the epoxy black. I also add glass filler to make it strong. Making it black makes it less obvious after finishing the stock. I have no acraglass or other glass bedding compounds so I use slow set epoxy. I use floor wax for the release agent. Particularly on the standing breech on heavy recoil guns glass bedding is a good idea. It is frustrating to have the tang chip out. Unless you can do perfect inletting the barrel will set back.

Staining an sealing? I would never use any sealer on maple. I have on pine that was stained with hardware store stains. That is a whole different thing. You will not have blotch results on maple. I always start with AF and see where it takes me. It will not get blotchy. If I want a different effect I use dye stains after. I dilute them at first. I avoid applying it heavily on the end grain. No problems with blotchiness. IF a spot is darker than you like rub it back with maroon scotchbrite. Use whatever you want for finish. IT does not matter much, it does matter how you apply it.