hoochiepapa
75 Cal.
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Glad you got it, finally, and glad you like it. It will be fun to do some tinkering with it, so you can say you made some corrections. :thumbsup:
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new fowler - I hope.
- Thread starter Rifleman1776
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Loading up but still here. Will try another.
Now you're just messin with me. You had the http:// twice in the prefix of the image address but the second one lacked the colon. ;-)
Stump, the quotation thingys did not come up for me. I'm tired now, will work on it some more tomorrow.
Keb said:I'd get out a measuring device. That barrel looks shorter than 36"Rifleman1776 said:...36" barrel...
Ye have good eyes. It is 31". :shocked2:
I orginally ordered 30" but after a conversation Jackie convinced me I would be happier with 36" and would feel no difference in weight. OK, 36" is what it was to be.
Came with 31". :idunno:
Oh, well, it feels good in my hands and fortunately I like it the way it is.
Not the report I expected to give.
Was at the range today, couldn't make the fowler go boom even once. :shocked2:
I know I did not dry ball. Lock sparked and I got flash in pan every time.
Tried every gyration and incantation possible. Still could not get ignition. Tried pulling but screw pulled out. I sure don't want to drill a hole through the ball so gave up on that.
I did learn a .600 ball with ticking patching is a very tight fit. Bore does measure .620. I would like a .595 ball but there doesn't seem to be such a critter for sale. Jeff Tanner will make one though. More $$$
I did learn a couple things about how Jackie builds. He definitely has his system down and he is able to work fast. That is not all good. It does keep the prices low, I'll acknowledge. The lock mortise is obviously done with machines (router, drill press, etc.), that is OK but he does not clean out and just leaves dust and shavings inside.
I was dissapointed with what I saw when I removed the lock. It is obvious he browns by dunking entire parts, like the lock, right into the browning solution. :shocked2: That is a heartbreaker especially with an L&R lock. They come new from the factory with inside parts polished and shiny and they work beautifully smoothly. This one is browned inside and out. It will take some use for the moving parts to wear off the brown and self polish.
As for the failure to fire. I have been thinking about it all afternoon. By elimination, I have come to the conclusion I must have loaded the wet cusion wad first and put the card on top.
That would have wet the powder and put me out of the shooting business for today. Challenge now is to get that load out of there. I don't have a CO2 discharger and hate having to spend another $40.00 for one. I think the wads will give enough seal to discharge so I'll probably take another shot...no pun intended...at pulling the ball.
Fortunately, I can shoot at home so that report will follow when I'm able.
Was at the range today, couldn't make the fowler go boom even once. :shocked2:
I know I did not dry ball. Lock sparked and I got flash in pan every time.
Tried every gyration and incantation possible. Still could not get ignition. Tried pulling but screw pulled out. I sure don't want to drill a hole through the ball so gave up on that.
I did learn a .600 ball with ticking patching is a very tight fit. Bore does measure .620. I would like a .595 ball but there doesn't seem to be such a critter for sale. Jeff Tanner will make one though. More $$$
I did learn a couple things about how Jackie builds. He definitely has his system down and he is able to work fast. That is not all good. It does keep the prices low, I'll acknowledge. The lock mortise is obviously done with machines (router, drill press, etc.), that is OK but he does not clean out and just leaves dust and shavings inside.
I was dissapointed with what I saw when I removed the lock. It is obvious he browns by dunking entire parts, like the lock, right into the browning solution. :shocked2: That is a heartbreaker especially with an L&R lock. They come new from the factory with inside parts polished and shiny and they work beautifully smoothly. This one is browned inside and out.
It will take some use for the moving parts to wear off the brown and self polish.As for the failure to fire. I have been thinking about it all afternoon. By elimination, I have come to the conclusion I must have loaded the wet cusion wad first and put the card on top.
That would have wet the powder and put me out of the shooting business for today. Challenge now is to get that load out of there. I don't have a CO2 discharger and hate having to spend another $40.00 for one. I think the wads will give enough seal to discharge so I'll probably take another shot...no pun intended...at pulling the ball.Fortunately, I can shoot at home so that report will follow when I'm able.
Capt. Jas.
58 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2005
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Don't feel bad, I had a relative get a rifle in the '90's and the rascal had browned the barrel inside and out!!!!!!!!! :shocked2:
Lots of other issues as well of course.
Lots of other issues as well of course.
Rifleman, sorry about your difficulties. Sounds like his health problems are causing him to take some shortcuts. I know my lock came properly browned with all internals shiny etc. Still, lot of gun for the money and I'm sure you'll get it ticking along nicely.
On the balls, you can get .595's from TOW, which I did try, but I did not get the accuracy I wanted. Went back to the .600 with a thinner patch lubed with Mink Oil on top of one card and one fibre wad and now am getting outstanding accuracy.
Sure like the looks of yours and that shorter barrel works for me. Good luck.
On the balls, you can get .595's from TOW, which I did try, but I did not get the accuracy I wanted. Went back to the .600 with a thinner patch lubed with Mink Oil on top of one card and one fibre wad and now am getting outstanding accuracy.
Sure like the looks of yours and that shorter barrel works for me. Good luck.
Not good news. I have an assortment of things to pull balls and wads. By necessity. :redface:
For smoothbores my favorite is the one shown with the 5/16-27 threads. It will pull a ball, card or wad.
For smoothbores my favorite is the one shown with the 5/16-27 threads. It will pull a ball, card or wad.
Just some FYI as another reference, my .62cal Virginia measures a true .620" bore...most accurate big game load is:
110grns Goex 2F
.022" precut/prelubed Oxyoke patch
.600" cast ball
2.5" at 50yds from seated/hunting position, not the bench.
110grns Goex 2F
.022" precut/prelubed Oxyoke patch
.600" cast ball
2.5" at 50yds from seated/hunting position, not the bench.
...Jeeepers!... This topic exhausted me... No one should have to experience that much frustration and still not get what was ordered ... If I was in your shoes I'd throw down a few shots of scotch, get some sleep and sell the darn thing in the morning...
... If I was in your shoes I'd throw down a few shots of scotch, get some sleep and sell the darn thing in the morning...
bob4st said:...Jeeepers!... This topic exhausted me... No one should have to experience that much frustration and still not get what was ordered
Thanks all. Not selling it.
I can't handle scotch. :barf: Had some wine last night. Will try the pull again today.
And will go with thinner patch. I don't like buying balls when I can cast.
An interesting side note into Jackie's business practices. Very casual, to say the least. In addition to the 'forgetfullness' of some details (wood, finish, lock style, barrel length....) he told me he does not keep a record of down payment monies paid or balance due. He believes his customers are honest and will pay the proper balances. As a former businessman I just cannot get my mind around that.
When I talked to him and asked for the balance due that is what he told me. Seconds after we were off the phone I PP'd the balance. Just checked my account and two days later the payment still has not been claimed.
Second to practicing ones faith, the first rule is "get the money". Oh, well. It is his money, I wish him well.
When I talked to him and asked for the balance due that is what he told me. Seconds after we were off the phone I PP'd the balance. Just checked my account and two days later the payment still has not been claimed.
Second to practicing ones faith, the first rule is "get the money". Oh, well. It is his money, I wish him well.
Yikes! If it were me I would be neutralizing the browning solution on your lock and getting all that rust off the frizzen, pan and do some serious polishing of the internals with a buffing wheel on a dremel tool.
While I was at it I would neutralize every other metal part to be on the safe side and complete the browning process correctly with heat and oil application.
While I was at it I would neutralize every other metal part to be on the safe side and complete the browning process correctly with heat and oil application.
Eric Krewson said:
Yep. Oiling and waxing hasn't stopped the process. Metal coming off and will be neutralized.
And on that note...Jim Chambers posted some photos of the barrel bed of a Flintlock where the browning solution had not been neutralized and even the wood in the barrel bed was being eaten away.Eric Krewson said:
If it was me...I'd gut that muzzleloader to a pile of parts, thoroughly check, clean, lube every square inch of it and reassemble.
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Maybe we should just give JB a chance. And a hug.
OK, this a.m. got it to go boom.
Figured after sitting all night some of the powder might have dried enough to give ignition. I picked some 4Fg into the touch hole, primed heavy and it went off. Got the ball and wads out.
Later I loaded up, sans wads, and shot it. Put the ball where I was pointing (aiming?). :grin:
There was difficulty with follow-up shots. Ignition was spotty, had to push primer into the vent almost every time. I'll make a decision today whether to enlarge the vent or not. Once you drill it is hard to put the metal back. A friend was with me, he is an ml shooter and (modern) gunsmith. He thought the powder was not going down to the area of the vent in the breech. :shocked2: I'm going to check that out.
Found out just how light a gun it is. Even with my bum shoulder I was really wanting a little more weight in front. Holding steady will be a learning process.
BTW, friend was not impressed with inletting or the way the lock is set into the stock. I might have to do something about the lock if it turns out to be a problem.
Figured after sitting all night some of the powder might have dried enough to give ignition. I picked some 4Fg into the touch hole, primed heavy and it went off. Got the ball and wads out.
Later I loaded up, sans wads, and shot it. Put the ball where I was pointing (aiming?). :grin:
There was difficulty with follow-up shots. Ignition was spotty, had to push primer into the vent almost every time. I'll make a decision today whether to enlarge the vent or not. Once you drill it is hard to put the metal back. A friend was with me, he is an ml shooter and (modern) gunsmith. He thought the powder was not going down to the area of the vent in the breech. :shocked2: I'm going to check that out.
Found out just how light a gun it is. Even with my bum shoulder I was really wanting a little more weight in front. Holding steady will be a learning process.
BTW, friend was not impressed with inletting or the way the lock is set into the stock. I might have to do something about the lock if it turns out to be a problem.
Should have added:
My first load was the .600 ball and beeswax lubed ticking. It loaded hard, like a tight ball in a rifle. I had to hammer it down the bore.
Today I used some .010 cloth that was heavily beeswax lubed, same ball size. It went down well. By third shot with no swabbing the loading was difficult. From now on I'll be using cards and lubed wads over the powder/under the patched ball. On a range I'll probably also swab between shot.
Powder was Elephant 3Fg. I have a pound of that and a pound of Elephant 2Fg. I don't like Elephant, very dirty stuff. But at today's powder prices, I'll use it up before working into my Goex, Schutzen and Swiss supply.
My first load was the .600 ball and beeswax lubed ticking. It loaded hard, like a tight ball in a rifle. I had to hammer it down the bore.
Today I used some .010 cloth that was heavily beeswax lubed, same ball size. It went down well. By third shot with no swabbing the loading was difficult. From now on I'll be using cards and lubed wads over the powder/under the patched ball. On a range I'll probably also swab between shot.
Powder was Elephant 3Fg. I have a pound of that and a pound of Elephant 2Fg. I don't like Elephant, very dirty stuff. But at today's powder prices, I'll use it up before working into my Goex, Schutzen and Swiss supply.
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So the question is ... Do you think you got your moneys worth?.
