• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

New Gun Problem ... Help please

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I agree that appears to be the problem. And backing the nipple off just a bit could close that space and allow the cap to fire. However, right now I have the barrel charged with powder and ball. I suppose it would be safe to try to get the cap to fire but as the gun is new I would think I need the factory to repair or replace. It would be faster and okay with me if they have a longer nipple. If they have one that would be the fastest fix. I’m also looking at Track of the Wolf as they have an incredible assortment of nipples available. I’m anxiously waiting to hear back from Traditions this morning as they have pictures they are reviewing and should have a plan for resolving this issue.
 
If I had the gun charged and was going to send it back to Traditions, I think I'd put one of my barely larger than cap diameter rare earth magnets from Harbor Freight on the hammer, and fire the rifle. They are about 1/16th inch thick, and super strong, should stay in place on the hammer. I'd be sure to wear eye protection, and nobody to the side of me when trying this.
Thank you PG as it will be necessary to fire the gun rather than shipping it loaded. I have a Harbor Fr near me so I’ll look for those magnets. I wonder if I could use say a dime and super glue the cap to the dime and let the hammer drop on the dime. It looks like it is almost square and seems it may get in enough of a lick to fire the cap. What do you think?
 
Thank you PG as it will be necessary to fire the gun rather than shipping it loaded. I have a Harbor Fr near me so I’ll look for those magnets. I wonder if I could use say a dime and super glue the cap to the dime and let the hammer drop on the dime. It looks like it is almost square and seems it may get in enough of a lick to fire the cap. What do you think?
Better yet, as I have on order from Track of the Wolf, some different nipples that have the correct thread to fit my gun, I’ll just wait until they come in and maybe they will work. I suppose if they don’t work I’ll have to try a different method to clear the weapon.
 
There are likely other reasons why the CO2 would be necessary for discharging the gun, but as I have a clear path to the powder and simply need a cap to fire, I can’t see spending $30 for the CO2.
 
I’m not about to take a wrench to this new gun. I’m confident that Traditions will make it right but he’s out til Monday. Then he’ll see the pictures and respond.

But now I have to get the gun unloaded and I think super glueing a cap to a dime and allowing the hammer to fall on the dime will likely detonate the primer and fire the weapon.
 
I’m not about to take a wrench to this new gun. I’m confident that Traditions will make it right but he’s out til Monday. Then he’ll see the pictures and respond.

But now I have to get the gun unloaded and I think super glueing a cap to a dime and allowing the hammer to fall on the dime will likely detonate the primer and fire the weapon.
When your talking to them be sure to point out that the gun barrel is loaded and ask him about shipping it. I think they will say the gun can be shipped, even if it is still loaded.
After all, a loaded muzzleloader without a cap on the nipple is not any different than a loaded modern rifle cartridge without a primer in it and loaded modern rifle cartridges can be shipped anywhere in the US if it is shipped by ground.

If you can ship the gun to them, be sure to tape several pieces of paper with the words, "THIS GUN IS LOADED" written on it in big letters along with a letter explaining what the problem is, your name and your address so they can ship it back to you.

Good luck to you.
 
I’ve been in touch with a lady in Traditions customer service and she told me it was illegal to ship the gun loaded.

I hope the nipples I have coming will fire the gun but if they won’t, I’ll take a chance and use the dime on it ... I expect it to detonate.
 
I have no idea where you live. There is no location info in your profile but if I were you I would try and find an experienced ML person and ask them for some help getting that gun unloaded first off... Unless you have one heck of a tight ball and patch combo an experienced shooter with a good rod with drill and screw adaptors can likely have that thing unloaded in a jiffy......

Just me sayin.....
 
You know, I like your idea of sending just the lock if possible.
It looks like that would be quickest fix for you, they can then take their time trying to fix the original. If you decide you'd like to have some of those rare earth magnets, they are impressively strong to be so small. Here is a link. Specs say they are 1/8" thick, not 1/16" as I had guessed. 5/16" diameter.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-rare-earth-magnets-67488.html
 
My Crockett shot caps well. I removed the lock to take a peek inside. When I replaced the lock, I didn't attach it correctly and it wouldn't pop the cap.
re attached the lock, problem solved.
 
Your problem is the relationship of the hammer to the nipple. You are leaving off a vital part of the conditions that your rifle won't fire by not returning the complete rifle. If you send in just the lock, Traditions won't be able to fully troubleshoot the problem.

As stated earlier, you need to get the load removed from the barrel.

Part of the basic muzzleloading rifle skill set is the ability to unload a rifle using the ball puller or the CO2 discharger. $30 is good insurance to offset all the time spent trying to figure out the problems.

Another part of the basic shooting preparation is to fire a couple of caps to make sure the flash channel is clear before loading the rifle. When you get your rifle back, promise us you will fire at least two caps to verify the firing system is functional.
 
Your problem is the relationship of the hammer to the nipple. You are leaving off a vital part of the conditions that your rifle won't fire by not returning the complete rifle. If you send in just the lock, Traditions won't be able to fully troubleshoot the problem.

As stated earlier, you need to get the load removed from the barrel.

Part of the basic muzzleloading rifle skill set is the ability to unload a rifle using the ball puller or the CO2 discharger. $30 is good insurance to offset all the time spent trying to figure out the problems.

Another part of the basic shooting preparation is to fire a couple of caps to make sure the flash channel is clear before loading the rifle. When you get your rifle back, promise us you will fire at least two caps to verify the firing system is functional.

That makes a lot of sense. I did that with my Walker to check ignition. I didn't like the factory nipples either. Replaced with SliXShot stainless steel ones. They are made for Remington #10 caps which I have. Hind sight is 20/20 tough. You really don't expect a brand new rifle to not strike the percussion caps, but what you suggest is good practice for sure. I knew I wasn't going to shoot my Walker till I had tuned it, de-burred, polished and the arbor shimmed. If not for that, I may well have been in such an excited rush to shoot it, I might have loaded without trying with just caps. I've also read that capping and firing with the bore unloaded is good practice to burn/dry, and remove and residue oil or moisture prior to loading. I'm going to make that a habit every time I shoot now. Excellent advice as always. I'm learning tons about black powder shooting on this forum. And it is going to help keep me from making many beginner mistakes with black powder.

I have looked at those CO2 un-loaders. I have air soft and pellet guns, so I already have the cartridges. I will probably get one at some point. Sooner better than later if I really get into this muzzle loading. I've got the screw in ball pullers as well. Sooner or later I have a misfire, that is certain. It's not that big a deal with the revolvers, especially the Colts. I have already put round balls into the chambers and measured them with digital calibers and micrometer, it was easy to push the balls out with a hard wood dowel through the nipple holes. I pushed a ball trough the barrel from the breech to muzzle as well and measured it, also checking to see if it had an tight spots in the bore.

I hope Gowacky gets the issue resolved to satisfaction. It drives me nuts when I have troubles like these with a brand spanking new gun, tool, electronic device. I know it's what warranties are for, but still it ticks me off and leaves me feeling like, why me?
It will be interesting to see what Traditions comes up with. We all want answers now. I'd let them know the muzzle loading forum members want to know what went wrong. The fact that quality control dropped the ball on this rifle is pretty much a moot issue now. I'm confident Traditions will make it right.
 
Get the C02 asap. You will be dry balling sooner or later and its soooo easy vs bulling a ball and if ya had it now we wouldn't be reading this. For now if it is doable, maybe place rifle in a vise pointed in safe direction and try a whack with a ball-pin hammer? If ya have the ball puller now just use it. several drops of oil down the muzzle or a well overlubed patch will help it come out easy. Since it is LOADED many would say not to pull the ball, yer choice, it can be done safely with the rod stuck in a tree, a vise (or have "mikey" hold the rod and you pull the rifle.... JUST KIDDING) and you pulling the rifle.

Seriously though once your C02 kit saves an entire wasted day at the range you'll think it a cheap and required tool. Dry balling at the range is a sign of a great muzzleloader shooter (I have convinced myself:ghostly:)
 
A cap can be fired by whacking it with a regular hammer, even with the lock off, but a rod and ball puller is just common sense.
I cannot figure why such a long thread on such a basic and easily solved problem. :)
 
A cap can be fired by whacking it with a regular hammer, even with the lock off, but a rod and ball puller is just common sense.
I cannot figure why such a long thread on such a basic and easily solved problem. :)

The OP's post wasn't about unloading a loaded muzzleloader. It was about his NEW rifles failure to fire the percussion caps. The hammer isn't hitting the caps at all. Unloading it, came up in the thread when he mentioned it was loaded, and he needs to unload it in order to ship it back to Traditions.
 
Many moons ago I got my co2 ball pusher. That was Saturday. On Sunday it was used THREE TIMES. On a replica Baker rifle, not mine.

I've used it once since then, though.....
 
Back
Top