New Gun Problem ... Help please

[Gowacky]

This is a great and very active forum and I certainly appreciate all the comments. You are certainly right in that I knew to fire a cap or two before charging the gun but forgot. At this time however I intend to buy the magnets as suggested by PN. I like that approach over the CO2 or hitting it with a hammer. I’ve read so much now that should this happen again I believe I’d try the method of putting just a little powder through the nipple hole and still attempt to shoot the ball out. And as commented Traditions has already told me that they would want the entire rifle back if it comes to that. I just had hoped to keep this stock as it has some nice grain in the wood. The 32 cal has required so many items that are not as common as for a 50 cal from ball starter, ramrod, jags, nipple wrench ... then getting all the same treads on components that I’ve been forced to jut relax and get everything in. I’m confident that Traditions will repair or replace the rifle and I need to be patient. But, hopefully, the nipple I have ordered from Tr of the Wolf will work.

 

[Newtire]

Someone mentioned about the step on the inside of the hammer hitting the top of the lockplate. This happened to me on my .32 Crockett and someone on this board, I believe, clued me in. I removed the hammer and ground a little off the hammer step on the inside and problem solved. Get out that Dremel tool and a little stone bit and just take off enough to let it pop the cap and a touch more for good measure. Don't do this with a loaded gun!

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Plugged Nickel,

My sincere apologies.
I came over a bit terse. Long day and all that. no excuse. Apologies to O- Poster and everyone.

(I'm still wondering if the lock is hanging up on half cock though..... I asked about that a while back in this thread.)

 

[Wayne/Al]

Hello, I’m new to the forum and happy to be with you.

I just received my new 32 cal Crockett muzzleloader made by Tradition Arms. I have been waiting to get in all the items I need and thought I was finally ready, but when I pulled the trigger, the hammer dropped but the cap didn’t fire. I repeated this 6 times with CCI #11 caps. Then I noticed the caps are showing no sign of being hit so it appears the hammer is stopping a wee bit before making contact with the cap.

If this sounds like the case, would you know how to make that adjustment?

Thanks,

Gowacky

 

[Wayne/Al]

Hello, I’m new to the forum and happy to be with you.

I just received my new 32 cal Crockett muzzleloader made by Tradition Arms. I have been waiting to get in all the items I need and thought I was finally ready, but when I pulled the trigger, the hammer dropped but the cap didn’t fire. I repeated this 6 times with CCI #11 caps. Then I noticed the caps are showing no sign of being hit so it appears the hammer is stopping a wee bit before making contact with the cap.

If this sounds like the case, would you know how to make that adjustment?

Thanks,

Gowacky

One thing you might check is to make sure there is no interference with the in letting for lock. I have seen similar problems solved by loosening the screw that holds the lock a few turns. Just another guess.....ha

Wayne/al

 

[Gowacky]

Hello NewTire. I suspect you’re right on about the stop needs to be ground off just a bit BUT, one of our comrades on here addressed that idea and said that is like ‘case hardened’ steel or iron and it would be necessary to re-do that process after removing any metal from the stop or it would continue to change
the shape of the stop and cause problems down the road.

But regarding the lock hanging up on half cock, that isn’t the problem as the hammer will drop almost to the cap .... just stopping a few thousandths short, I believe.

And Wayne, by ‘loosening the lock screw’ would that be the external screw that holds the hammer on? I checked to make sure it was tight but hadn’t considered loosening it a bit?

 

[Gowacky]

Just at first light this morning my dog had a varmint tree’d and if my gun had been working I’d had an opportunity to protect my chickens .... hate I missed that opportunity but there will be more.

I live outside the city limits and this is my target all set up and waiting.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I have a Tingle pistol made in Italy. It is designed so the hammer stops just above the nipple. It is supposed to hit the cap just enough to set it off. Needless to say it doesn't fire with standard #11 caps! My first foray to the range, I used #11 magnum caps and they worked fine, Probably worth a trial of #11 magnum caps as there is more priming compound in the magnum cap and that may make up the gap between the hammer and the nipple.

 

[Gowacky]

Gren, I think you’re right on and the first one to have a valid idea about how I can get the cap closer to the hammer. I just have one huge monetary problem with that as I have wound up with $300 worth of CCI #11 caps. I didn’t know a lot and was trying to gather components from various mfg’s and didn’t even until now know there was a magnum cap. Hindsight is awesome isn’t it?

But I do have a different nipple coming from Track of the Wolf and I hope to get lucky and the guy will fire.

I live in a rural area so I don’t have a Cabella’s near, therefore I pay the hazmat fee.

 

[PluggedNickel]

Get the C02 asap. You will be dry balling sooner or later and its soooo easy vs bulling a ball and if ya had it now we wouldn't be reading this. For now if it is doable, maybe place rifle in a vise pointed in safe direction and try a whack with a ball-pin hammer? If ya have the ball puller now just use it. several drops of oil down the muzzle or a well overlubed patch will help it come out easy. Since it is LOADED many would say not to pull the ball, yer choice, it can be done safely with the rod stuck in a tree, a vise (or have "mikey" hold the rod and you pull the rifle.... JUST KIDDING) and you pulling the rifle.

Seriously though once your C02 kit saves an entire wasted day at the range you'll think it a cheap and required tool. Dry balling at the range is a sign of a great muzzleloader shooter (I have convinced myself)

It could come in handy to blow off a keyboard!

Many moons ago I got my co2 ball pusher. That was Saturday. On Sunday it was used THREE TIMES. On a replica Baker rifle, not mine.

I've used it once since then, though.....

Ah, but wasn't it nice to have on hand when you did need it? It would be like insurance on a car or bike. One of those things you hope you never need to use, but if you ever have to your glad you have it!

 

[PluggedNickel]

Plugged Nickel,

My sincere apologies.
I came over a bit terse. Long day and all that. no excuse. Apologies to O- Poster and everyone.

(I'm still wondering if the lock is hanging up on half cock though..... I asked about that a while back in this thread.)

No worries. No feelings hurt here. I figured you hadn't read all the posts in the mean time. We all do that sometimes, when tired or short of time.

 

[PluggedNickel]

View attachment 651 Just at first light this morning my dog had a varmint tree’d and if my gun had been working I’d had an opportunity to protect my chickens .... hate I missed that opportunity but there will be more.

I live outside the city limits and this is my target all set up and waiting.

Sweet, me too. Love the living out in the sticks! A month ago, crops are down now! Ain't country living great?

middle of last week

My new mobile target for C&B black powder revolvers. I plan to shoot off the deck when the weather clears a bit. I can angle the back-up plate by adjusting the strap to give a downward angle. In the unlikely event anyone missed the 4'X4' back-up there are no houses, barns, or roads for 3,000 yards behind our property. No worries! The dolly was recently on sale at Harbor Freight for $39.95, I've had mine for about ten years, though it don't show it too much.

After painting back up 4'X4' .250" mild steel plate, cast steel base, and heavy wall pipe with RustOleum paint. Also, went to strap with rubber coated hooks, so soft lead balls won't cut nylon strap it a ball misses the 3/8" AR500 steel target plate.

 

[PluggedNickel]

This is a great and very active forum and I certainly appreciate all the comments. You are certainly right in that I knew to fire a cap or two before charging the gun but forgot. At this time however I intend to buy the magnets as suggested by PN. I like that approach over the CO2 or hitting it with a hammer. I’ve read so much now that should this happen again I believe I’d try the method of putting just a little powder through the nipple hole and still attempt to shoot the ball out. And as commented Traditions has already told me that they would want the entire rifle back if it comes to that. I just had hoped to keep this stock as it has some nice grain in the wood. The 32 cal has required so many items that are not as common as for a 50 cal from ball starter, ramrod, jags, nipple wrench ... then getting all the same treads on components that I’ve been forced to jut relax and get everything in. I’m confident that Traditions will repair or replace the rifle and I need to be patient. But, hopefully, the nipple I have ordered from Tr of the Wolf will work.

Here's a picture on my tool box with tap to drill size plate being held on left top corner with rare earth magnets. I use them to hold a metal cabinet door that doesn't want to stay shut close, I use them for a tap, drill, decimal, fractions chart on the drill press too. They are very handy little magnets. The one on the drill press looks huge, but it is not. It is just a real close picture. The first
picture below is more to scale.

 

[Newtire]

Hello NewTire. I suspect you’re right on about the stop needs to be ground off just a bit BUT, one of our comrades on here addressed that idea and said that is like ‘case hardened’ steel or iron and it would be necessary to re-do that process after removing any metal from the stop or it would continue to change
the shape of the stop and cause problems down the road.

But regarding the lock hanging up on half cock, that isn’t the problem as the hammer will drop almost to the cap .... just stopping a few thousandths short, I believe.

And Wayne, by ‘loosening the lock screw’ would that be the external screw that holds the hammer on? I checked to make sure it was tight but hadn’t considered loosening it a bit?

I hear you about the part being hardened & all but we're only talking taking off a teensy bit on one side. Besides, I have fixed mine this way and have experienced no more trouble. Even if it did, it's only going to bend even farther away and work even better - no troubles so far after a couple hundred shots. Really should be something that Traditions would take a look at since the OP is the 3rd person it's happened to on this site so far. I'll send them an email and see if they answer it.

 

[Gowacky]

I agree with you NT, but as the gun is new I think it’s wise to let Traditions do the work. If they choose to grind the stop a bit I would never know and if the gun fires that would satisfy me. I’m just anxious to do some shooting and this problem is in my way. I don’t think it’s wise for me to do anything to the rifle except try the new nipple I have coming. I don’t believe it’s wise for me to have any work done or do it myself. But changing the nipple will not effect my warranty. I do think it’s wasteful if they destroy the action instead of repairing it but that must be their call.

I did buy the small magnets and if the new nipple won’t fire the cap I’ll use a magnet and trust it will bust the cap.

 

[Artificer]

Sounds to me like you have a very good plan of action.

Gus

 

[Tanglefoot]

Howdy Gowacky,
There's a lot of good suggestions on this thread already, so I won't trouble you by saying some of the same things in different words. I would strongly recommend that you NOT back the nipple out and then try to fire a live cap on it! Backing the nipple out would make it looser in its seat and if the weapon fires it could blow out, perhaps even snapping the cast steel hammer and giving you flying scrap metal to deal with --- close to your face. I would also recommend that you don't consider shipping a loaded weapon. Get the charge out of that barrel first, and then start working the "caps don't fire" problem. I'm surprised you didn't fire a few caps on an empty barrel before loading it in the first place. If nothing else, it's a good practice to do so to dry the flame channel of any residual oil and make sure it's clear. I generally fire a squib load first which does that job and also dries the breech.
There floats my stick.
Tanglefoot

 

[Gowacky]

Yes sir Tangle Foot, I read you loud and clear. And I’m sure many who have read this thread have been awed by some of the suggestions. I’ve also been talking with Traditions and like you they warn of the bad ideas that can be posted on these forums. I have enjoyed and appreciated every single post and just consider it a lesson. I’m reminded that we all have a purpose and some people just serve as ‘bad examples’ ... LOL!

I’m not going to loosen the nipple thread and try firing it that way but I do intend to put one of these earth magnets on the hammer and I’ll probably suspend the rifle from a limb and torch it off with a string tied to the trigger ... just in case.

There were several who suggested the ball ping hammer lick which seemed a little wild compared to using the magnet.

Anyway, I’m anxious to get this gun shoot’n.

 

[Gowacky]

And BTW, that was just a senior moment I had when I forgot to pop a primer or two before I loaded the rifle. That was my first time in maybe 45 years. I just had a senior moment, I guess.

 

[Newtire]

Ok, I sent off an email to Traditions to see what they say.