Had the same problem with a brand new Crocket .32 years ago. Solved it with a little washer under the nipple (actually used a washer made to back up a pop rivet behind sheet metal - I drilled it out so it would fit over the nipple threads). It raised the nipple enough so the caps would fire. I also had a problem with #11 caps being too loose on my .44 revolver. A box of #10 caps solved that.
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New Gun Problem ... Help please
- Thread starter Gowacky
- Start date
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Newtire
32 Cal.
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This sounds like a case of "If you can't bring the hammer to the nipple then bring the nipple to the hammer".
Another prime example highlighting the suburb quality of these traditions guns! What I would do (besides sending it back) is re-drill the powder drum and tap it out for another nipple, say a standard 1/4-28. You can get various sizes from TOTW to fit your particular need. Also likely the problem is not the nipple, but the geometry at which the cock falls on the nipple which I bet is out of whack. I have changed the geometry of several tradition lock cocks as they are always whacky, this will involve a forge or map gas torch. Depending on your skillset, replacing the nipple will likely be the cats meow.
I belong to the send it back crowd. This one was manufactured at 4:45 PM on a Friday
Newtire
32 Cal.
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Not to be rude but you guys are turning this easy-to-fix problem into something very complicated. I have no troubles with my Crockett other than that. I have to finish filing down the front sight on my Pedersoli .32 to get it to hit somewhere other than 10" low at 25 yards so gotta go.
Well, I didn’t send it back but I got it shoot’n. After a number of responses I began to understand better about how the gun was made and that there was really only thousandths of an inch keeping it from firing. And I wasn’t going to settle for the loose fitting caps on the nipple provided with the gun. So I began searching for a different nipple that had the correct thread. Then I learned the importance of that screw across from the hammer. Then for good measure I removed a tiny bit from the hammer stop.
This has been a real learning experience as my first muzzleloader worked perfectly and made all this education unnecessary.
This has been a real learning experience as my first muzzleloader worked perfectly and made all this education unnecessary.
New tire, I’d like to know how that could be construed to mean anything other than you were indeed rude. Any comments were made by well intentioned folk who took a little time to recount their experience. Couldn’t you just not continue reading without feeling the need to be ... as you said, rude.
Newtire
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Sorry Gowacky, wasn't intending to be that way. Just that I am pretty sure my solution is correct as this happened to a few other folks. I should have known when to quit and I will. Crossed the line and I shouldn't have-was rude, you are right.
Are the lock screws that hold the lock to the gun to tight? if they are to tight it will slow the hammer down to the point where it doesn't have enough velocity to make the cap go off.
Same thing if the lock internals are touching wood.
Same thing if the lock internals are touching wood.
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Just about every rifle I have had built or built myself had something in the lock dragging the wood. Seems like something changes after the rifle is shot a few times. Probably isn't necessary but I routinely look for stained spots to scrape away in the lock mortise while cleaning.
Wood is very compressible, I think a lot of people are to heavy handed with the screw driver when tightening the bolts down. each time they over tighten the wood compresses a tiny bit. Over time this can present a problem. I always tighten my bolts and then back them off slightly, or tighten them incrementally, checking lock fit and function as I go.
Wise. Except it doesn't require repeating. One overtightening will cramp up your lock innards. Remove lock and look for shiny areas on the wood inlet. That is where the rubbing is happening. Scrape that down then develop the habit of NOT overtightening the lock bolt in the future.
Right. There is no need to crank down the screws.
If the lock is properly inlet the bolster is against the barrel. The lock should pull down square against the barrel. Hopefully, the barrel won't compress. ;-) The wood compresses on the sideplate side and will make the sideplate pop out. Over tightening the front screw can also pull the lock in at the front and make the lock pivot on the bolster and pop out at the tail. Because of the limited mating surfaces on most locks, I usually put a drop of epoxy or wood glue(even CA glue if I'm careful.) at each end of the inlet to harden the wood.
If the lock is properly inlet the bolster is against the barrel. The lock should pull down square against the barrel. Hopefully, the barrel won't compress. ;-) The wood compresses on the sideplate side and will make the sideplate pop out. Over tightening the front screw can also pull the lock in at the front and make the lock pivot on the bolster and pop out at the tail. Because of the limited mating surfaces on most locks, I usually put a drop of epoxy or wood glue(even CA glue if I'm careful.) at each end of the inlet to harden the wood.
Ketchakah
40 Cal.
Technically, In my humble experience, the lock should stop against the barrel and create a metal to metal joint. If you are contacting wood in the area of the mechanism, Something else may be in error.
New Tire, I just got my first Dremmel tool for my birthday and was reading back to where you suggested using it to take off a tad of the hammer stop. That was indeed the problem and after taking the lock apart I was able to get a small flat file on the hammer stop, and the gun started shooting. The replacement nipples came in and they do hold the magnum cap firmly.
I just understand now that it’s a tiny difference that makes the difference and if I have any more trouble I intend to use the dremmel.
My wife and I are considering building from a kit and wonder if the dremmel can be very useful and substitute for soooo much sanding?
I just understand now that it’s a tiny difference that makes the difference and if I have any more trouble I intend to use the dremmel.
My wife and I are considering building from a kit and wonder if the dremmel can be very useful and substitute for soooo much sanding?
Pete G
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As above..... Unless your hand is as steady as a bolted down Bridgeport mill, don't even try it.
I say this while using a dremmel myself, but for very small and specific jobs/details that are generally out of view and non critical to exactness.
Just some thoughts.
I say this while using a dremmel myself, but for very small and specific jobs/details that are generally out of view and non critical to exactness.
Just some thoughts.
moleeyes36
Pilgrim
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You're right. If there is a lot of wood to be removed, use a rasp of the appropriate coarseness. If you are removing a lesser amount of wood or shaping something, try a sharp scraper. A scraper can be homemade easily and inexpensively, and if kept sharp will remove wood quite expeditiously. Sand paper is expensive and less effective at removing any significant amount of wood.
Newtire
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Avoid the Dremel tool unless you have had lots of experience to know when and when not to use it. Just because people have horse and buggy accidents, doesn't mean you should sell your horse. You can ruin things in a hurry if you're not careful!
